Tashkent

Tashkent rewards those who look beyond its Soviet-era concrete and discover an oasis city with 2000 years of trade history under the domes of Chorsu Bazaar. It's the main entry point for Uzbekistan and most travelers pass through en route to Samarkand and Bukhara, but staying 2-3 days lets you explore Amir Temur's legacy in museums, find surprisingly good plov and shashlik, and use it as a base for day trips to Silk Road sites. The city is safe, walkable in the centre, and has improving connectivity for digital nomads.

Tashkent International Airport (8 km south) handles flights from Europe, Russia, Middle East and Asia via Uzbekistan Airways. International terminal T2 is north of the runway, with T1 as the arrivals hall. Domestic flights use Terminal 3, 4 km south across the runway—you'll need to clear immigration, collect luggage, and take a bus or Yandex Go taxi (about US$2, 10 minutes). The main Tashkent Railway Station (Metro Toshkent) is the terminus for almost all trains to/from Samarkand (2-3 hours), Bukhara (4-6 hours), and east to Andijan and Namangan. South Station handles slower overnight services from Khiva, Termez, and Samarkand. The Bus Terminal (Avtovokzal) at Bunyodkor/Gavkhar has buses to Samarkand (6 hr), Bukhara (11 hr), Urgench/Khiva (20 hr), and an international service to Almaty (17 hr, not daily).

The metro is the fastest way across this spread-out city—stations include Mustakillik Maydoni (Independence Square), Toshkent (main railway), Chorsu (for Chorsu Bazaar), Ming O'rik, Paxtakor, Amir Temur Xiyoboni, and Bodomzor near the TV Tower. Fares are cheap (a few thousand som). City buses run frequently, while marshrutkas (shared minibuses) are faster but more cramped. Yandex Go taxis are widely available and cheap by Western standards. Walking works well in the central area between the old city (west of the Chirchiq river) and the Soviet new town (east).

Tashkent's harsh continental climate makes spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October) the ideal times to visit—temperatures range from 16-28°C and the city turns green. Summers (June-August) are brutally hot, often exceeding 35°C, while winters (December-February) dip below freezing with occasional snow. The earthquake of 26 April 1966 reshaped the city, and this date is still commemorated as a day of remembrance for reconstruction efforts.

Budget options cluster near Chorsu Bazaar (Gulnara Guesthouse, Jahongir B&B around US$40-45) and along Amir Temur in the central district (Shodlik Palace, Uzbekistan Hotel, Ramada from US$60-120). Mid-range chains include Radisson Blu, Wyndham, and Lotte City Palace near the commercial district. Most hotels offer B&B rates; expect to pay US$55-160 depending on season and standard. The old city near Chorsu has the most character for walking to bazaars and mosques, while Amir Temur district is better for business amenities and metro access.

Uzbek cuisine dominates: plov (pilaf with lamb and carrots) is the national dish—try Besh Qozon near the TV tower, open daily 09:00-23:00. Shashlik (skewered meat) is ubiquitous at street grills and restaurants like Shashleek. Lagman (noodle soup) and manti (dumplings) appear on most menus. Tea (choy) is the local drink, taken black without milk. Cafes cluster around Amir Temur Square and near the concert hall (Cafe Bukhara, Bravissimo). International options include Georgian khinkali at Pro.Khinkali, Italian at Bella Napoli, and Korean at Khangan. Tap water is not guaranteed safe—drink bottled and beware ice made from unboiled water.

Museums include the State Museum of the Temurids (Amir Temur 1, adult 40,000 som, Tu-Su) showcasing Timur/Tamerlane, and the Museum of Applied Arts (Rakatboshi 15, adult 25,000 som) in a 19th-century merchant's mansion. The Moyi Mubarek Madrasah (40,000 som, daily 09:00-16:00) houses the world's oldest Quran, written 644/648 AD. Kukeldash Madrasah (Navoi Prospect, Metro Chorsu, adult 15,000 som) dates to 1570. Tashkent TV Tower (Amir Temur 109, adult 50,000 som, daily 10:00-20:00) offers views from 97 m. Parks include Alisher Navoiy Park with fairground and lake near Metro Milliy Bog, and Do'stlik Recreation Park with boating lake. Chorsu Bazaar (Metro Chorsu, daily 05:00-20:00) is Central Asia's biggest and oldest, trading for over 2000 years under tiled domes.

Tashkent is generally safe—beware traffic, safeguard valuables, and avoid getting mixed up in local politics like demonstrations. The unified emergency number is 112 (24/7), with individual numbers for medical (103), fire (101), and police (102). Healthcare standards are well below Western levels; anything serious likely requires medical evacuation. Seek advice from your accommodation on nearby medical, dental, or pharmacy services. Scams are possible if a suave local approaches you unsolicited.

As of September 2024, Tashkent and its approach highways have 4G from all Uzbek carriers (Beeline, MTS, Ucell, Uzmobile), and the city centre has 5G from Ucell and Uzmobile. SIM cards are widely available and cheap. WiFi is common in hotels, cafes, and malls. Power plugs use the standard European two-pin (Type C/F) at 220V, same as most of Europe.

Daily budget for a backpacker in Tashkent: accommodation US$15-40 (dorms rare, guesthouses from US$40), meals US$5-15 (plov from 25,000 som, street food cheaper), metro/bus under US$1, attractions 15,000-50,000 som each. Budget travelers can manage on US$25-35/day staying in guesthouses, eating at cafes and bazaars, using metro, and visiting 1-2 museums daily. Mid-range travelers spending US$50-80/day get private rooms, restaurant meals, and more flexibility.

Day trips from Tashkent include the Ming O'rik archaeological site (5th century AD village remains, bus along Amir Temur), Oqtepa Yunusobod ancient settlement (protected by moat, bus 32 or 50), and Zengi-Ata mosque and madressah (18 km southwest, 13th century Sheikh Aj-Hodzha burial site). The Chirchiq river valley offers outdoor recreation. Samarkand (2-3 hours by train) and Bukhara (4-6 hours) are better as overnight trips, not day trips.

Dress modestly when visiting mosques and madressahs—cover shoulders and knees. Remove shoes before entering religious sites. Photography may be restricted inside some buildings. Tipping is not expected but appreciated in upscale restaurants. Bargaining is appropriate at bazaars but not at fixed-price shops. Russian remains the lingua franca, especially for older residents—learning basic Cyrillic helps read signs and menus. Uzbek is the official language and uses the western alphabet.

Samarkand (2-3 hours by train) and Bukhara (4-6 hours) are the fabulous highlights of the Silk Road, both UNESCO World Heritage sites with stunning registan and ancient architecture. Shahrisabz ( birthplace of Timur, 4-5 hours) has the Ak-Saray palace ruins and tomb intended for Timur. Almaty in Kazakhstan (17 hr bus or flights) is a Soviet-era city on a grid pattern with mountains nearby. Internal destinations include Khiva (20 hr bus or fly to Urgench), Andijan (eastern extremity), and Termez (southern border near Afghanistan).