Shymkent

Shymkent is Kazakhstan's third-largest city and a self-proclaimed gastronomic center among locals. The city packs 25 centuries of history into a 1 km walk: start at Soviet Al-Faraby (Lenin) Square with rectangular Soviet architecture, cross an irrigation ditch into the medieval old town with bent streets and an old mosque, then enter the ancient Shym-Qala hillfort. It's a major transport hub in the Kazakh Desert with good connectivity and significantly lower prices than Almaty or Astana.

Shymkent International Airport serves flights from other Kazakh destinations, China, Russia, and Turkey. The Shymkent railway station connects to major cities — most trains depart from Astana daily at 21:25, while others depart from Almaty (Alma Ata 2 station) at 18:32. For overland travel from Tashkent, shared taxis cost about 1,400 tenge to the border; direct buses leave Shymkent at 08:00, 13:00, and 19:00 from Bekzhan bus station (8km west of center) at approximately 3,000 tenge per person.

Gypsy cabs cost 300-400 tenge anywhere in the city — bargain if approached. Buses run 70 tenge (as of 2018) to and from the center and all microdistricts. Routes are posted at some stations. Marshrutkas (mini-buses) run largely the same routes. Note that districts are broken into 'microryons' which appear as city blocks on maps but are often four times the size.

Nauryz celebrations in late March are among the largest in Kazakhstan, held at the Ippodrom (Hippodrome) in the northern part of the city. The Shymkent marathon typically takes place on the second Sunday of September. Summers (June-August) can reach 34°C, while winters see sub-zero temperatures. Spring and autumn offer milder weather for sightseeing.

Budget travelers should seek rented apartments — don't pay more than 2,000 tenge for a normal room or 4,000 tenge for an 'elite' (newly remodeled) room. Apartments are available on Tauke Khan/Respublika main road near the Ogonyok bus stop. Hotel Nurotau offers single rooms at 4,000 tenge, doubles at 5,000-7,000 tenge, and triples at 8,000 tenge with WiFi. Hotel Ordabasy (double from 6,400 tenge) sits in Ordabasy plaza with private bath, satellite TV, and balcony. Clara Sapar is a better option for business/diplomat guests at over US$100/night.

Shymkent has a reputation as a gastronomic center — eat where it's crowded for fresh food. Traditional Kazakh drinks like kumys, kozhe are available at bazaars. For restaurants, Жеті тандыр (Ayteke Bi street 10/4) retains Soviet mosaics and serves Kazakh, Uzbek, and European cuisine. Душовая кухня (Ilyaeva street 1) is considered one of the best restaurants. Aladin (Zhangeldina street 26B) features Uzbek-style architecture. Budget options include Abdulla samsa (Gagarina street 1a, 08:00-22:00) for proper halal samsa, and Madina cafe (Ismailova street 4/4) — a cheap bus drivers' eatery with great plov and kebabs. Bars include Amber (Republic avenue 4, 16:00-02:00) and Jaman Bar (Turkestanskaya street 4, 19:00-03:00) serving local craft beer.

Shymkent hillfort (Shym-Qala) on Imanov street 68/2 (09:00-18:00) is the ancient 5th-century BC settlement core with museum and archaeological exhibitions. The Museum of Turkestan Region (Baidibek Bi avenue 115a, 09:00-18:00) moved to a new building with great exhibitions. The Private Carpet Museum (Ilyaeva street 40) occupies a Soviet building basement decorated entirely with carpet ornaments. The Zoo (Baydibek Bi street 113/1) is a Soviet-era zoo with steppe and desert species. For modern entertainment, Mega Planet mall has an indoor skating rink, movie theater, and food court on Tauke-Khan avenue. FC Ordabasy plays Premier League football at Kazhymukan Munaitpasov Stadium (capacity 20,000), 1km north of Old Town, March-November.

Shymkent is generally safe for travelers, though standard urban precautions apply. Be cautious with gypsy cabs — bargain firmly and agree on prices before entering. Markets and busy streets are safe but watch for pickpockets in crowded areas. When traveling by taxi to Tashkent, be aware that drivers 'drive extremely fast.'

As of September 2024, Shymkent has 4G coverage from Beeline and 5G from Kcell and Tele2. Signal quality is good on approach highways. WiFi is available at hotels like Hotel Nurotau. Local SIM cards are readily available for longer stays.

Shymkent is notably cheaper than Almaty or Astana. Basic apartment rooms cost 2,000 tenge, 'elite' rooms 4,000 tenge. Gypsy cabs 300-400 tenge, buses 70 tenge. Street food and market eateries provide cheap meals. Local marshrutkas to nearby towns cost 70 tenge. Budget 5,000-8,000 tenge per day covers accommodation, food, and local transport.

Turkestan — the most famous Muslim site in Kazakhstan with a beautiful mausoleum and new historical museum — is a must-see. Sairam mausoleums are reachable by taxi (200-300 tenge from Ordabasy Square) or marshrutka 140 from Aina bus stop (70 tenge). Stop to see the 'SHYMKENT' Hollywood sign en route. Taraz takes about 2.5 hours via marshrutka (1,200 tenge, locals pay this rate) departing from Samal station. Sairamsu valley in the Ugam mountain range features glacial lakes and petroglyphs.

To Tashkent (Uzbekistan): shared taxis to border cost 1,400 tenge, then 100-200 tenge for last 5km. Direct buses depart at 08:00, 13:00, 19:00 from Bekzhan station (3,000 tenge) with smoother border crossing. To Taraz: 15-person marshrutkas leave from Samal station (5km northwest of center), take 2.5 hours, cost 1,200 tenge. To Turkestan and Sairam for historical sites and mausoleums.