Surin

Surin is Thailand's self-proclaimed elephant capital, a quiet Isaan town of ~40,000 people whose provincial identity revolves around elephants, silk, and jasmine rice. Its claim to fame is the annual Elephant Roundup every November, when hundreds of elephants fill the streets. Beyond the spectacle, Surin offers access to Prasat Sikhoraphum and other Khmer ruins, silk-weaving villages producing world-class brocade, and a welcoming local atmosphere without mass tourism.

Surin is the capital of Surin Province, lying about 450 km east of Bangkok and 50 km from the Cambodian border. The town has a small population but the province is densely populated. Surin's people have had a long relationship with elephants—they epitomize raw power coupled with intelligence and strong kinship values. Plenty of Khmer ruins, beautiful silk fabrics, and highly-prized jasmine rice also make Surin a destination worth a visit.

Surin lies on the SRT Northeastern Line with trains connecting Bangkok to Ubon Ratchathani. The town is about 450 km east of Bangkok. For international access, the Chong Chom/O'Smach border crossing leads into Cambodia—visas are issued at the border for USD20. Minibuses run from Chong Chom to Surin for 60 baht.

Surin is small enough that most central journeys can be made on foot. Samlors (rickshaws) cost 40 baht for a ride around the central region; tuk-tuks charge 50-60 baht for foreigners. Larger hotels have cars available for hire. Be aware that overcharging foreigners is not considered a serious crime by locals—always confirm prices before boarding.

The Elephant Roundup takes place on the third weekend of November—book accommodation months in advance for this event. Thai Elephant Day (second week of November) features a light and sound show. The Surin Jasmine Rice and Silk Cloth Fair runs every January. The Ordination parade on elephant's back occurs 13th-15th day of the waxing moon in May (mid-May). The Ascending Phanom Sawai Mountain Festival is held in March. October to December brings wild flowers in bloom at Huai Thap Than sanctuary.

Budget options include Pirom-Aree's Guest House (200 baht, fan rooms, outside bath) and New Hotel (300 baht, fan room with bath). Mid-range choices are One Fu Hotel (550+ baht, boutique modern style) and TK Mansions (500 baht, fiber optic internet, near night market). The Surin Majestic (1,200+ baht with buffet breakfast) is next to the bus station with excellent Wi-Fi. Thong Tarin Hotel (1,100+ baht) has a beer garden, swimming pool, and attached bath house.

Surin has a fantastic night market where you should try Isaan sausage and Laos-style flattened chicken (gai yang)—be careful with the som tam (papaya salad) if you have a sensitive stomach. Small restaurants and street vendors are plentiful throughout town. Major hotels have reasonably priced menus. For nightlife, most bars are near the Thong Tarin Hotel on two streets lined with small bars, karaoke, and go-go bars. Expat-owned options include Farang Connection, Oasis, The Beach in Surin, and N & N's German Restaurant, all near the bus station.

Ban Buthom Basketry Village is famed for rattan basketry treated with lemon, carambola, or kaffir lime instead of lacquer. The Village of Chansoma Golden Brocade in Ban Tha Sawang produces 1,416-heddled gold-brocaded silk offered to the queen and was selected to weave shirts for 21 APEC leaders. Khwao Sinarin Handicrafts Village produces the finest local silk fabric called 'hol' and invented silver buttons called 'luk pa kueam'. Huai Saneng Reservoir has water lilies and bird flocks; Phanom Sawai Forest Park has a three-peak mountain with temples. Huai Thap Than-Huay Samran Wildlife Sanctuary on the Thai-Cambodia border has an education centre and wild flowers October-December.

Land mines from the Khmer Rouge era may still exist near Prasat Ta Meuan and surrounding jungle—stay on marked paths and do not wander off trails. Tuk-tuk and samlor drivers frequently overcharge foreigners; always agree on a price before boarding or ask your hotel for advice. When arriving by bus, be extra careful not to be taken for a ride while being taken for a ride.

Buriram is accessible to the west. Cambodia is reachable via the Chong Chom/O'Smach border crossing—the road descends scenic Dangrek Mountains, and casino hotels sit between immigration offices. Cambodian tourist visas cost USD20 (touts will try to charge more). O'Smach town on the Cambodian side has guesthouses and a market with cafes. Paramount Angkor Transport runs buses to Samraong from O'Smach. Si Saket lies to the east. By train, Surin sits on the Bangkok-Ubon Ratchathani route via Buriram (west) and Si Saket (east).