Sóller

Sóller is a picturesque mountain town nestled in the Serra de Tramuntana on Mallorca's northwest coast, with a population of 13,600. It gained prosperity from citrus and olive exports, historically easier by sea than over the mountains. The town is famous for its charming vintage narrow-gauge railway from Palma (built 1912) and the heritage tram connecting to Port de Sóller (opened 1913). Visitors come for the Art Nouveau architecture, mountain hiking trails, traditional villages like Fornalutx and Biniaraix, and the relaxed port atmosphere. The road tunnel through Coll de Sóller (opened 1997) now makes access much easier than in centuries past.

The most scenic approach is via the narrow-gauge railway from Palma, a heritage line that chugs through the mountains to Sóller station. The tram then continues from the station down to Port de Sóller. Road access improved significantly when the 5 km tunnel beneath Coll de Sóller opened in 1997, connecting to the Ma-11 highway. Buses also serve the route from Palma.

The heritage tram runs between Sóller railway station and Port de Sóller from 08:00-21:00 every 30 minutes, costing €9 each way in 2024 (buy on board) or €35 return combined with the train. The tram uses historic rolling stock on a 3 ft / 914 mm gauge single track with passing loops. Buses 204 and 231 connect Sóller with the port. Cyclists and pedestrians can follow the tram tracks along the waterfront. Taxis wait by the railway station. Motorists should use peripheral car parks in villages like Fornalutx to avoid narrow streets, and the 1.29 km Sa Mola tunnel on Ma-11 provides vehicle access.

The best time to visit is spring (April-June) or early autumn (September-October) when temperatures are pleasant for hiking and sightseeing. Summer can be crowded with tourists on the tram. Major local events include Es Firo in May (commemorating the 1561 Algerian pirate attack with re-enactments the Monday after the second Sunday) and Correfoc during Sant Bartomeu fiesta on the third Friday in August, when hellfire demons invade the town in a spectacular fire run.

Package tours don't base here, so there's a range of small family-run pensions not found in the bigger resorts. Budget options include Casa Margarita near the station (B&B double €50) and Hostal Nadal opposite Gran Hotel (bright clean hostel with free parking nearby). Mid-range choices are El Guia next to the station and Sóller Center behind the church. For splurges, Gran Hotel Sóller offers traditional elegance near the main plaza (B&B double €230), while Finca Ca's Curial provides tranquil mountain views in Moorish cottages adults-only (B&B double €350). At the port, Hotel Eden offers value (B&B double €150) and Jumeirah Mallorca is the luxury option on the headland (B&B double €550).

Sóller's main plaza hosts several restaurants including Ca'n Nadal, Sa Cova, Malinche Mexican, Cafe Sóller, Sa Granja, and Miga de Nube. The standout restaurant is Bens d'Avall on the Ma-10 road west of town, serving superb Balearic food on a terrace with sea views—booking essential. Gran Hotel restaurant also gets good reviews. Port de Sóller has eating places along the waterfront, with numerous pubs in both town and port.

The GR221 (Ruta de Pedra) is an eight-day hiking trail along the coast from Andratx to Port de Pollença, with Day 5 being a tough 28 km from Muleta via Sóller, Biniaraix and its ravine, up to Cúber and the Tossals Verd refuge. Cultural attractions include the Sala Picasso & Sala Miró rooms in the railway station (free, Tu-Sa 10:30-17:00), Museu de Sóller in a 19th century house (free, M-F 10:00-14:00, Sa 10:30-13:00), and Ca'n Prunera Museum showing Art Nouveau and modern art (€8, Tu-Sa 10:30-18:00). The Jardí Botànic offers pleasant botanic gardens within walking distance of the station (€8, M-Sa 10:00-18:00). The Museu de la Mar at Port de Sóller displays Mallorca's maritime history (free, Tu-Sa 10:00-15:00, Su 10:00-14:00). Far des Cap Gros is an 1842 lighthouse on the headland west of the port, perfect for sunset views. Traditional experiences include the olive farm Es Seregalls in Fornalutx (adults €18, children €10, tours Oct-May Tu Th at 10:00, 12:00 & 14:00, Jun-Sep Tu Th at 09:00 & 11:00). The Jardins d'Alfàbia gardens near the tunnel south entrance are set around a Gothic mansion (€9, Tu-Su 09:30-17:30). A solar eclipse will be visible from the coast here on August 12, 2026, starting at 20:31 for 90 seconds.

The Church of Sant Bartomeu was started in the early 13th century and embellished with every subsequent style—interior mostly baroque circa 1700, neogothic bell-tower, and 1904 facade by Joan Rubió i Bellver, a follower of Antoni Gaudí who also designed the ornate bank. Port de Sóller is mostly modern low-rise, with the best area near the tram terminus. The village of Biniaraix east of Sóller has old public washrooms (rentadores) recalling pre-piped-water days, plus a karstic ravine (barranc) traversed by a pilgrimage trail. Fornalutx is a charming hill village 4 km east, accessible by hiking trail via Binibassi or Bus 231. Sa Capelleta, Santa Maria de l'Olivar is a cute Gaudiesque chapel built in 1917 down a rough track below Ma-10 towards Fornalutx.

Supermarkets include Bip Bip at Isabel II 62 (daily 08:30-21:00) southwest of the station, Aprop at Sant Jaume 19 (M-Sa 08:30-20:30, Su 08:30-14:00) with another outlet at the port, and EuroCop/Sa Botiga des Port at Antoni Montis in Port de Sóller (daily 07:00-22:00).

As of August 2024, Sóller town centre has 5G coverage from MasMovil, Movistar, and Orange, and 4G from Vodafone. The approach highways and port have 4G from all Spanish carriers.

Palma de Mallorca, the capital, needs a couple of days to explore with its cathedral, Almudaina Palace, and old town. Alcúdia in the north of Mallorca is the main resort, with ferries to Menorca. The Serra de Tramuntana offers numerous mountain villages and hiking opportunities.