Shillong

Shillong is the capital of Meghalaya and the largest town in India's North-Eastern states, perched at 1,496 metres above sea level in undulating pine-covered hills. Known as the Scotland of the East, it offers a milder climate than tropical India and retains a strong British legacy in its architecture and food habits. The city is famous for its waterfalls, caves, and as a gateway to Cherrapunji's world-record rainfall. Its predominantly Christian population creates a distinct cultural atmosphere compared to the rest of India.

Shillong Airport (Umroi) is about 40 km from the city and handles flights from Kolkata on certain days of the week. An MTDC bus runs between the airport and Shillong market. The city is also accessible by road from Guwahati (approximately 100 km), which is the nearest major railhead and airport hub.

The best way to explore Shillong is on foot. The city is small and can be easily covered by walking, allowing you to explore the hills and interact with locals. Local shared taxis and auto-rickshaws are available for longer distances.

The best time to visit Shillong is during the rainy season (June-September) when the famous waterfalls including those in Cherrapunji are in full flow. However, be prepared for heavy rainfall. The post-monsoon months offer clearer skies while maintaining lush greenery. Winters can be cold at this altitude.

Most hotels in Shillong are concentrated in and around Police Bazar, the noisy crowded city centre. Hotel Polo Towers and Royal Heritage offer more relaxing locations. Budget travelers can stay at the Youth Hostel near the CTO Complex for ₹155 per bed, though it tends to be crowded with 15+ people per room. Mid-range options include Hotel Knight Inn, Hotel Lake View Inn, and Travellers Bed & Breakfast (dorms from ₹300, doubles from ₹950).

Shillong has a variety of restaurants, mostly in the Police Bazar area, serving Chinese, Indian, and Tibetan cuisine. Must-try items include momos (steamed Tibetan dumplings with cabbage and pork/chicken) available in small and large sizes. Khasi and Tibetan recipes use very little spices and emphasize boiling or roasting over frying. For South Indian food, Madras Cafe in Police Bazar serves idlis, dosas, and vadas from 7AM-10PM for around ₹100 per meal. Vegetarians can try Sharma Bhojanalaya near Police Bazaar for Marwari thali at ₹40. The city is a drinker's paradise due to Meghalaya's low alcohol tax structure, making liquor significantly cheaper than elsewhere in India. Nightlife peaks on Fridays and Saturdays.

Take a walk through Iewduh (Bara Bazar), one of the biggest markets in North-East India with separate sections for vegetables, fruits, iron works, fish, beef, and betel. Visit the Don Bosco Museum of Indigenous North East Culture, the largest cultural museum in Asia, covering all eight NE states. Explore the forest around Shillong Peak (1,965 metres, the state's highest point) where you can spot the insect-eating pitcher plant (Nepenthes khasiana). Shillong has many beautiful caves to explore. For water sports, head to Umiam Lake (Barapani) 20 km north, a man-made lake with kayaking, water cycling, and boating facilities.

Iewduh is the largest open street market in north-eastern India, offering local fruits, vegetables, honey, and fish alongside a vivid picture of local life. Traditional bamboo handicrafts and woollen handmade shawls are popular souvenirs. Visit Purbashree, the Meghalaya Government Handicrafts Showroom in Police Bazar for authentic crafts. Shillong is also a fashion capital of India with numerous shops selling top brands at RAPs Apparel (MG Road), Uncle Shop, In-Fashion, Broadway Collection, and Selection Centre.

Key attractions include Elephant Falls in Upper Shillong (named by the British for a rock that resembled an elephant, destroyed in an earthquake), the Cathedral of Mary Help of Christians perched on a hill in Laitumkhrah, Wards Lake below the Raj Bhavan with boating and garden walks, and Umiam Lake (Barapani) which resembles Scottish lochs. Sweet Falls in Happy Valley is very steep with no barricades—extreme caution advised. Lady Hydari Park features flowering plants, orchids, a mini zoo, and deer park spread over more than a kilometre.

Shillong is generally safe for travelers, though standard precautions apply. Be cautious on steep trails like Sweet Falls where there are no barricades and rocks are slippery. During monsoon season, roads to Cherrapunji and other destinations can be affected by landslides. Smaller food outlets may have cleanliness issues.

Mobile coverage is available through major Indian carriers. WiFi is offered at starred hotels and some cafes. India uses Type C, Type D, and Type M power plugs (230V/50Hz).

Shillong is budget-friendly for India. Dorm beds at Youth Hostel cost ₹155 per night. Budget doubles start from ₹950 at Travellers B&B. Meals at local eateries range from ₹40 (Marwari thali) to ₹100 (South Indian at Madras Cafe). Alcohol is exceptionally cheap due to the state's tax structure. Local transport is affordable via shared taxis and auto-rickshaws.

Cherrapunji (Sohra) is 60 km south, famous for Noh Kalikai Falls and limestone caves with stalactites and stalagmites—best visited during monsoon for thundering waterfalls. Mawsynram, 56 km away, holds a Guinness record for highest average annual rainfall (11,873 mm) and features the Mawjymbuin cave with a Shivalinga-shaped stalagmite. Jakrem, 64 km away, offers sulphur hot springs believed to have curative properties. Sacred Forest (Mawphlang) is 25 km away—dense groves protected for centuries, home to Khasi pines, ferns, and endemic orchids. Umiam Lake water sports complex is 20 km north.

From Shillong, explore the rest of Meghalaya: Cherrapunji's waterfalls and caves, Mawsynram's sacred caves, the sulphur hot springs at Jakrem, the protected Sacred Forests at Mawphlang, and Umiam Lake's water sports. Jaintia Hills offers a 700-year-old Durga temple, a lake, and rock garden.