Sayulita

Sayulita is a surf town on Mexico's Pacific Coast that has evolved from an off-the-beaten-path backpacker haven into a popular but still friendly destination. The town delivers wide sandy beaches, consistent surf breaks suitable for beginners and intermediates, excellent street tacos (try the taco stand El Itacate on Av. Revolucion), and a relaxed vibe with warm hospitality. Huichol Indians sell handcrafted wares in the plaza daily, and sunsets over the Pacific are spectacular. Unlike larger resort destinations, the town center is walkable—just a couple of blocks—yet it offers 40+ restaurants and a lively nightlife scene.

Sayulita lies 23 miles (37 km) north of Puerto Vallarta on Federal Highway 200. From Puerto Vallarta airport, you can take a taxi directly or catch a bus. The Terminal de Autobuses Sayulita (Revolucion 3B) operates second-class buses to Puerto Vallarta departing every 10-15 minutes for 50 pesos (as of February 2023); the ride takes 60-120 minutes depending on stops. Compostela buses also serve this route. From Guadalajara (295 km east), you can reach Sayulita via Puerto Vallarta by intercity bus or non-stop flight.

The main part of town is nearly entirely walkable, with most restaurants, shops, and the beach accessible on foot within minutes. If you are staying more than a mile or two from the center, a rental car may be useful for exploring hidden beaches and jungle roads. There is no formal public transportation within the town itself.

Sayulita's natural beauty includes frigatebirds soaring over the Pacific, virgin jungle for hiking, and several hidden beaches accessible via dirt roads deeper into the jungle. The most notable beach is Playa los Muertos (Beach of the Dead), named after a local legend that the dead rise from the adjacent Sayulita Cemetery at night to enjoy the warm waters. Tourists can walk the dirt road through the cemetery to access the beach, but should leave before sunset.

ATMs are located throughout the village, including from Multiva, though you should take care as some street-side machines may be manipulated. Huichol Indians sell handcrafted wares in the main plaza daily, offering traditional woven art, yarn paintings, and beaded items. Plenty of shops sell tourist goods and local art, from surfwear to Mexican crafts.

Despite being a small town, Sayulita has 40 or more restaurants. Street-side taco stand vendors offer cheap eats and great fare. El Itacate (Av. Revolucion 15, daily 13:00-21:00) serves excellent meat-oriented tacos. Don Pedro's (Calle Marlin 2, daily 09:00-22:00) is a beachfront palapa with wood-fired pizzas and spicy tuna tostadas. For breakfast, try Yah Yah Cafe (Niños Heroes 4, W-M 07:30-15:00, closed Tu) with coffee, bagels, and egg bowls. Mary’s (Av. Revolucion 36) specializes in fish tacos and fresh seafood.

For budget drinking, buy cervezas from grocery stores off the main square and return bottles for deposit refunds. Costeno’s, located right on the beach straight down from the plaza, serves margaritas the size of your head. For upscale options, try Don Pedro’s (also on the beach) or head to the plaza for Miro Vino or Calypso. To learn about and sample Mexico’s finest tequilas, visit Sayulita Fish Taco. The main drag is Calle Delfines.

Several affordable accommodation options exist, and the compact town center makes finding a place straightforward. Budget travelers can camp at Camping del Palmar (south of the river, better maintained of the two campgrounds). Aurinko Bungalows (Calle Marlin) offers personally styled bungalows in the center with a Finnish owner who also runs nearby surf shops. Hotel La Casona (Calle Delfin #7) is a boutique hotel less than one block from the beach. For splurges, Amor Boutique Hotel (Pescadores, from M$3000) offers hillside villas with a pool, while Estrella del Mar (Calle Vista Mar 5) provides Mexican Modern architecture with 360-degree ocean and jungle views.

Beach safety requires the “Stingray Shuffle”: shuffle or slide your feet forward without lifting them when entering the water to avoid stepping on stingrays—YouTube has demonstrations. As of 2022, increased tourism has strained the town’s water system, and occasional sewage drainage into swimming areas has occurred. Pay attention to posted warnings about pollution, particularly after heavy rain. Standard urban precautions apply regarding belongings and nightlife.

Several nearby destinations make excellent day trips. San Francisco (7 km northeast) is a beach village surrounded by jungle known for floral diversity. Bucerias (20 km southeast) offers a long uninterrupted white sand beach. Tepic (130 km northeast) is the capital of Nayarit. Puerto Vallarta is easily reachable by frequent bus (50 pesos, 90 minutes).

From Sayulita’s Terminal de Autobuses, Compostela buses to Puerto Vallarta airport leave every 10 minutes (50 pesos, February 2023). Second-class buses take 60-120 minutes and may not be ideal for travelers with multiple suitcases or those without Spanish. Tepic (Fed Hwy 200 north) is 130 km away. From Puerto Vallarta, you can connect to Guadalajara (295 km east) by intercity bus or flight. Guadalajara serves as a gateway to San Luis Potosi, Guanajuato, San Miguel de Allende, and Queretaro. Mazatlan is recommended via flight.