Santa Cruz, Galapagos

Santa Cruz is the most important island in the Galapagos archipelago due to its central location and the presence of Puerto Ayora, the largest town in the islands with the best tourist infrastructure. The town has the largest number of hotels and restaurants, as well as shopping and supplies, making it the ideal base for exploring the Galapagos while staying onshore. Services include grocery stores, pharmacies, hardware stores, boat supplies, a small hospital, and a hyperbaric chamber.

Puerto Ayora is connected by road and ferry to the airport on Baltra Island, which is the main airport for the Galapagos Islands. Buses transport airport passengers from the ferry to Puerto Ayora and back. The only paved road on the island runs between the Itabaca channel and Puerto Ayora.

Puerto Ayora is small enough to explore by foot, with most tourism concentrated along the waterfront. White pickup truck taxis operate throughout town and can provide transportation to the highlands or across the island; they also function as collectivos but usually won't go further than Santa Rosa. Water taxis are available at the main dock and can take you to either a waiting boat or the dock on the other side.

The Galapagos can be visited year-round. Peak season typically corresponds with mainland Ecuador's dry season, though weather patterns can vary. South Plaza and North Plaza islands near Santa Cruz are popular for day trips, especially during non-peak times when there is plenty to see in a small space. Visitors must register at a gate before accessing certain areas like Tortuga Bay.

Accommodation in Puerto Ayora is generally over-priced, and there may be a 22% tax added to rates. Budget travelers can find rooms from $10-15 per person at places like Casa Surf (Silviana rents rooms and apartments) or Hotel Santa Cruz (approximately $15 with private bathroom and cold water). Mid-range options include Hotel Espana at around $20-30 per night. Luxury options like the Finch Bay Galapagos Eco Hotel start from $250. The main accommodation area is along Avenida Charles Darwin.

Puerto Ayora has a variety of dining options along Avenida Charles Darwin. Popular restaurants include Hernan Cafe (best coffee in town, also has WiFi), Isla Grill (excellent seafood grills, pizzas, cocktails, free Wi-Fi), and La Dolce Italia (the island's Italian restaurant). For Japanese cuisine, Red Mangrove Restaurant serves maki rolls, sashimi, and sushi waterfront. The water quality in Puerto Ayora is poor, so visitors should only use bottled water for drinking and brushing teeth, according to scientists at the Charles Darwin Station.

Good snorkeling spots include Tortuga Bay, Punta Estrada beach (German beach), and Las Grietas (a spectacular canyon with crystal clear emerald green water). Mountain bikes can be rented in Puerto Ayora for around $15 for a full day. The Charles Darwin Research Station (free entry, guided tours available for $10) features a turtle breeding area and exhibits on the islands' natural history, including Lonesome George. Other attractions include Los Gemelos (two sunken volcanic craters in cloud forest near Santa Rosa) and El Chato Tortoise Reserve ($5 entry, free Galapagos and lemongrass tea) where gigantic tortoises can be seen in the wild.

Puerto Ayora is generally a safe destination for travelers. However, Tortuga Bay has a strong undertow at the main beach; visitors should swim carefully and register at the gate. Camping at Garrapatero Beach is possible with a pre-arranged permit from the National Park office but visitors should be prepared for many mosquitoes after dark.

Hernan Cafe and Isla Grill are mentioned as having WiFi for visitors. Power plugs in Ecuador use the US standard (Type A and B, 120V, 60Hz). For SIM cards and local mobile data, visitors should check with providers in Puerto Ayora.

Ecuador uses the US dollar, so bring bills in smaller denominations as $100 bills are only accepted at large businesses or hotels. Budget accommodation starts from $10-15 per night, while mid-range hotels run $20-90. Activities include snorkeling at various free beaches, mountain biking ($15/day), kayaking at Playa Mansa ($10/hour), and guided tours to Las Grietas ($10). Day tours to other islands can be arranged from Puerto Ayora.

Puerto Ayora is the best place on the islands to arrange boat trips to other islands. Day tours can be arranged to: Baltra (main airport), Bartolome, Daphne, Floreana, Isabela, Mosquera, North Seymour, Plazas (South Plaza has a dry landing with sea lions, marine iguanas, sally lightfoot crabs, and land iguanas), Rabida, San Cristobal, and Santa Fe (home to the endemic Santa Fe Land Iguana). South Plaza and North Plaza are two small islands just off Santa Cruz, popular for day trips with a short path leading past prickly pear cacti and land iguanas.

From Puerto Ayora, boat trips can be arranged to multiple islands: Baltra (airport access), Floreana, Isabela, San Cristobal, Santa Fe, Bartolome, Daphne, Mosquera, North Seymour, Plazas, and Rabida. Each offers unique wildlife viewing opportunities including different species of tortoises, marine iguanas, and seabirds.