Overview
Colonial fortifications give this Caribbean harbor its historic character. Diving and views of cruising yachts add reasons to linger around the bay.
History · Diving · Festivals
Did you know?
- The Black Christ Festival brings religious celebrations each October.
- Colonial fortifications and surrounding tropical rainforest share national-park protection.
- Founded in 1597, the port became a key silver-exporting stop on the Spanish treasure fleets route.
Why Go
Portobelo is a sleepy Caribbean port city in Central Panama with fewer than 3,000 residents. Founded in 1597, it was once a crucial silver-exporting port on the Spanish Main and part of the Spanish treasure fleets route. Today it's a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its colonial fortifications, a diving destination with two dive centers, and a departure point for boats to Colombia. The town offers a relaxed alternative to larger Caribbean destinations with deep natural harbor views and cruising yachts.
Getting In
Buses run from Portobelo to Colon every 20-30 minutes from 04:30 until 6PM, departing from in front of the church but flaggable anywhere along the main road. A taxi boat service called langcha opened in November 2016, running weekly from Portobelo to Capurgana on the Colombian side for $160 per person. Regular boats also leave for Cartagena for around $300-500, with Captain Jack offering tours for $550.
Getting Around
Portobelo is very small and easy to navigate. There's one road running parallel to the water which forks just before the village square. Take the left fork for immigration and the Internet cafe, and the right fork for more food places. The main sights can be walked in an hour, starting at the west end fort ruin and heading east.
See
The main fort ruin sits at the west end of town, with a staircase up to a watch tower offering great views of the bay. The Church and Old Customs House are on the eastern side, and the Customs House contains a museum explaining the history of Congolese settlement and their choice of a dark icon for Jesus. The fortifications and surrounding tropical rainforest are protected as Portobelo National Park.
Do
Two dive centers operate in Portobelo: Panama Divers and Scubapanama. Panamore offers tours including beaches, mangroves, rivers, kayuko dugout canoes, waterfalls, jungle, snorkeling, amphibian board, and horseback riding. Contact Francesco at +507 6739 1685 for combined mangrove, jungle, beach, snorkel, and kayak-kayuko trips. Waterfalls and hiking in Portobelo National Park are also available. The Black Christ Festival takes place October 19-21, and the Congos and Diablos Festival coincides with carnival.
Drink
Captain Jack's is the most lively bar and popular with backpackers, though it's the most expensive at $2 per beer ($1 during Happy Hour, 16:00-17:00 daily and 14:00-18:00 on Sunday). Most other bars have beers from $1. Jack at Captain Jack's is described as a wealth of local knowledge and runs The Net on VHF channel 72 at 09:00 every morning for boat connectivity.
Go Next
Buses to Colon depart every 20-30 minutes from 04:30-18:00 from in front of the church. The weekly langcha boat to Capurgana (Colombia) costs $160 per person via Naturalstour, located about 400 meters before the Portobelo entrance when arriving from Colon. Boats to Cartagena start around $300-500. Passage to Kuna Yala (approximately 100 km) costs around $70 for transport only, with Captain Jack or local hostels handling bookings. The only other way to reach Kuna Yala requires returning to Panama City and driving 23-3 hours on the sickness road.
Guide text adapted from Wikivoyage contributors under CC BY-SA 4.0.
Where to start
Sleep
Casa Congo
Bright colors make this inn on the waterfront of Portobelo stand out. Wifi and breakfast included.
Sleep
Scuba Portobelo
This excellent Resort in Portobelo consists of six cabins and five rooms, all with ocean-view balcony, air condition, hot water, king or queen sized beds. They also have a restaurant with local cuisine prepared with products selected fresh from the sea and farm.
Eat
Pizza Place
This small place does pizza and sandwiches roughly from 12:00 until 19:30. The food is excellent despite the grumpy staff and slow service. They also do very good real fruit milkshakes (available without milk). Beer is very cheap too.
Do
Panama Divers
Dive company owned and operated by seasoned PADI professionals dedicated to ensuring the safety and enjoyment of every customer and committed to protecting environment.
Do
Panamore
Tours include beaches, mangroves, rivers, kayuko (dugout canoes), waterfalls, jungle, to snorkelling, anfibiaboard, horseback riding, sailboat trips.
Do
Scubapanama
Diving Panama; either snorkeling or with tanks (scuba). Panama offers both, a vivid and colorful submarine world of the Atlantic Ocean, with clear Caribbean waters; also the vast and mysterious Pacific Ocean, with plenty of the great marine species.
Before you go
Activities
Two dive centers operate here. The Black Christ Festival is Oct 19-21 and Congos and Diablos coincides with carnival.
Connectivity
One Internet cafe exists in town on the left fork before the road splits. VHF radio channel 72 at 09:00 connects boats in the area.
Money
Beer costs $1-2 at bars. Captain Jack's Happy Hour offers $1 beers 16:00-17:00 daily and 14:00-18:00 Sunday.
Transport
Buses to Colon run every 20-30 min from 04:30-18:00. Weekly langcha boats to Capurgana, Colombia cost $160. Boats to Cartagena $300-500.
