Port of Spain

Port of Spain has been the capital since 1757 and is the main administrative center of Trinidad and Tobago. The city is famous for its Carnival, ranked second only to Rio but preferred by many for its comparatively safer reputation. A bustling, friendly city with colonial architecture, a popular shopping district between Frederick Street and Independence Square, and evening "liming" (hanging out) at food stalls.

Piarco International Airport (POS) is about 45 minutes from the center of Port of Spain; allow extra time during evening rush hour as many commuters travel from the airport area downtown. Flights arrive from the Caribbean, Panama, Surinam, the UK (London), Canada (Toronto), and the US (New York City, Miami, Houston, Orlando).

Port of Spain is navigable on foot in the central area, particularly around the Savannah, Independence Square, and the waterfront. Taxis are widely available. The city layout runs south from the waterfront with the main commercial district between Frederick Street and Charlotte Street down to Independence Square (Brian Lara Promenade).

Port of Spain enjoys warm temperatures year-round, slightly cooler in January and February. The peak season is Carnival, held in the days before Lent — hotels fill completely and double their rates. The Trinidad Carnival features parades, calypso competitions, and steel band music; participants wear elaborate costumes and parade through the streets. In the weeks before Carnival, Steel Bands rehearse nightly at their Pan Yards (e.g., along Western Main), and visitors can buy a beer and watch.

Budget options include Tony's Guest House (from US$30), Samise Villa Bed & Breakfast (from US$35), S&D Guesthouse (from US$40), The Little Inn (from US$22 per person for groups over 8), and Monique's Guest House (from US$70). Mid-range options include Par May Las Inn (from US$56), Maracas Bay Hotel (from US$87), and Kapok Hotel near the Botanical Gardens (US$180). Upscale choices include Hilton Trinidad & Conference Center (overlooking the Savannah, hosted Obama and Clinton in 2009), Crowne Plaza waterfront with revolving restaurant (US$190 inc tax), and Hyatt Regency Trinidad (from US$250 minimum).

Street food staples include doubles (curried chickpea-filled bara), roti (flatbread wrapped around curried fillings), bake and shark (fried shark sandwich), and jerk chicken or fish. Traditional sit-down restaurants include Mano's Food Delight (52-B Park Street), Dopson's Roti (Maraval Road), George and Son Doubles (Carlos St), Sauce On The Avenue (Ariapita Ave), Angelo's (38 Ariapita Ave), and Creole Kitchen (22 Boissiere Village). Beer costs 10 TT at grocery stores and 15 TT at restaurants for a 275 mL bottle (local brews Carib and Stag). Local non-alcoholic drinks include sorrel (sweet dark red Roselle beverage), mauby (bitter-sweet herbal bark drink), and peanut punch (peanut butter, milk, and sugar blend). Angostura rum is a regional specialty.

Key sights include the National Academy for Performing Arts (Frederick St, city side of the Savannah, opened 2009), the International Waterfront Centre (1A Wrightson Rd — the only publicly accessible waterfront section), the Royal Victoria Institute (National Museum and Art Gallery, Frederick St, founded 1892), and the Magnificent Seven Houses along Maraval Road (seven colonial-era buildings including Stollmeyer's Castle, built like Balmoral by coconut-water entrepreneur Conrad Frederick Stollmeyer). The Emperor Valley Zoo is Trinidad and Tobago's only zoo, adjacent to the Botanical Gardens. The Royal Botanic Gardens (Circular Rd, Cotton Hill, established 1818) contain 700 trees, 13% indigenous. Queen's Park Savannah has a 3.5 km circumference and claims to be the world's largest roundabout. Cricket at Queen's Park Oval (Tragarete Rd, capacity 20,000) hosts Windies Test matches and the T20 Caribbean Premier League's Trinbago Knight Riders.

Trinidad has one of the highest murder rates in the world, though tourists are less affected. Sensible precautions include avoiding ostentatious displays of wealth, not wandering down dark backstreets at night or alone, and sticking to main tourist areas. The locals are described as incredibly friendly. Sunblock is essential even in early morning or late afternoon since Trinidad is very close to the equator.

SIM cards are easily available from stalls and shops at the airport, in malls, and on shopping streets. The two main competitors operating across the Caribbean region are Bmobile and Digicel. Topping up a prepaid card is possible at many shops and kiosks.

A backpacker can get by on approximately US$60-80/day excluding accommodation, covering street food meals (20-50 TT$ each), local transport (taxis within city under 30 TT$), and one paid attraction. Carnival period drives accommodation costs up significantly. Beer costs 10-15 TT$ depending on venue. Caroni Bird Sanctuary tours start at TT$75. Asa Wright day pass is $83 (US$).

The Caroni Bird Sanctuary (swamp) is a must-see for bird watchers, featuring the Scarlet Ibis (national bird) which returns at dusk to roost. Tours cost TT$75 at Kalpoo's (Nanan's may charge more for foreigners). Wear thick clothing as mosquitoes are especially vicious. Asa Wright ecolodge is about a 1-hour drive from Port of Spain (latter half on narrow roads); day pass for $83 includes lunch, bird watching tour (10:30 AM or 1:30 PM), afternoon tea, and unlimited tea/coffee. Chaguaramas, Arima, and Crown Point are listed as onward destinations.

Chaguaramas — coastal area with hiking, beaches, and the Chancellor of the ex-royal family residence. Arima — gateway to the Northern Range and Asa Wright. Crown Point (Tobago) — beach resort area on the sister island.