Port Hedland

Port Hedland is an industrial port town in the Pilbara region of Western Australia with a population of 15,471 (2020). It exports iron ore from mines inland, with enormous freight trains bringing ore to the docks. You're unlikely to linger unless you're in the mining or shipping business, but it's a possible stopover on the way to Broome or Karratha. The town has some interesting cultural offerings, including local art galleries and the Courthouse Gallery exhibiting work by regional artists.

May to August is the best time to visit: it's not exactly cool, but it's less torrid than summer. October to March is very hot, the town slumbers, and from December it's the cyclone season. Summer temperatures climb to 36°C, with apparent feels-like temperatures generally about 40°C during the day and 29°C at night. Exceptionally hot days can send the feels-like temperature as high as 49°C.

Port Hedland has several direct flights daily from Perth with Qantas, Virgin and Alliance (2 hours, around $600 return). Local flights by Aviair and Nexus Airlines run from Karratha, Newman, Geraldton and Broome. Integrity Coaches run 3 nights a week from Perth (29 hours) via Dongara, Geraldton, Carnarvon, Exmouth and Karratha ($600 return in 2022). One bus weekly runs inland via Mount Magnet and Newman (22 hours). By road, it's 1750 km via the North West Coastal Highway or 1628 km inland via the Great Northern Highway, both taking about 18 hours.

Bus 870 runs M-F hourly from Wedge St by the Visitor Centre to South Hedland, taking 40 minutes. It doesn't serve the airport. Hedland Taxis and H-Ride (app-based) operate in town, plus Rideroo ride-share. However, you really need your own vehicle here, not least for the air-con.

Accommodation in town is expensive for mid- to basic quality, but you may have to pay as distances in the Pilbara are vast and other towns are no better. Options include Pier Hotel (central), Hedland Hotel (beachfront, B&B double $300), Hospitality Inn (chain motel), Discovery Park caravan site, Blackrock Tourist Park in South Hedland, Club Hamilton Motel, and Walkabout Motel near the airport. The Port Hedland Golf Club has unpowered sites for $20 per night with basic facilities.

Dining options include Silver Star Cafe (in an old railway carriage on Edgar St), Bernie's (weekday lunches near Silver Star), Hedland Harbour Cafe on Wedge St (M-Sa 6AM-2:30PM), Heddy's Bar and Bistro at Hedland Hotel, and Dome Cafe overlooking the boat ramp. The Boulevard Shopping Centre has fast food outlets including Chicken Treat, Ayesha's Cafe, Yummy Noodle and The Bakehouse. For alcohol, Liquor Barons is at 23 Anderson St downtown (M-Sa noon-7PM).

The Courthouse Gallery on Edgar St exhibits local art (Tu-Sa 9AM-4PM, free). Marapikurrinya Park at the north end of Wedge Street gives close-up views of freighters. Street art is dotted around Wedge St and the Visitor Centre. The Staircase to the Moon is a natural phenomenon seen March-October on full moon spring tides when water caught between ripples on exposed sand flats creates the image of a golden staircase toward the rising moon. Koombana is the main beach, and Cemetery Beach is a major flatback turtle rookery (nesting Nov-Jan, hatchlings Dec-March). Fish Rock is a striking rock formation 50 km east on the highway to Broome, resembling a gaping mouth.

Port Hedland is generally safe, but dust from iron ore exports blows everywhere—the mines are far inland but with half a billion tonnes exported annually, some dust gets under contact lenses. The cyclone season runs December-March, and summer heat is extreme with feels-like temperatures reaching 49°C. Stay hydrated and avoid outdoor activities during peak heat. Turtle nesting areas may be cordoned off—stay clear of nests and follow volunteer guidance.

As of Feb 2022, Port Hedland has 4G from Telstra and Optus but no signal from Vodafone. 5G has not reached this area. The library in Boulevard Shopping Centre has internet access (M-F 10AM-5PM).

East to Broome (beach resort, formerly a pearl-fishing centre), west to Karratha (mining town). Exmouth is the route to Cape Range National Park and Coral Bay. Hwy 138 loops south via scenic Doolena Gorge and Marble Bar to Newman, rejoining the Great Northern Highway.