Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh is Cambodia's capital and largest city, a thumping metropolis at the confluence of the Mekong and Tonle Sap Rivers. Having recovered from Khmer Rouge devastation, it now offers riverside cafés, French colonial architecture, and raw street life. While not yet a rival to Bangkok, it's getting there—get it while it lasts. The city is ideal for travelers who enjoy edgy urban experiences, history buffs drawn to the Khmer Rouge regime, and those seeking a cheaper, less tourist-saturated alternative to Southeast Asian capitals.

Phnom Penh's new Techo International Airport opened in September 2025, replacing the former international airport and is nearly 20 km from the city centre—allocate sufficient time for traffic. Royal Railway Station offers train tickets with schedules and prices on their website; buying tickets directly at the station is recommended as the website is not encrypted. Standard tourist sights are few, making the city a place to watch street life and absorb local colour.

Phnom Penh is logically laid out with main streets in good condition. Smaller streets and footpaths can be rutted and potholed, clogged with garbage, stagnant water, parked motorbikes, sleeping people, and building materials. Street signage is clear and navigating is not too difficult. Tuk-tuks and motorbike taxis (motodops) are the main way to get around; prices are negotiable.

The weather is hot and humid year-round, with showers in the late afternoon during the rainy season (May to October). November to February is the cooler dry season and most popular for tourists. The city has gained high-rise buildings and traffic lights over the last decade, with Chinese capital funding numerous new developments throughout the city.

Budget travelers can find guesthouses near lakeside starting around US$3-7, with dorm beds from US$4. The BKK1 backpackers district near Independence Monument offers options like Mad Monkey Hostel (from US$5) with pool and rooftop bar, and Onederz (from US$12). Mid-range hotels like Khmer City Hotel (US$15-20) and Golden Gate Hotel (US$15-40) offer good value. Luxury options include Raffles Le Royal (US$150-300) and La Maison d'Ambre (US$90-160).

Street food is abundant and cheap—Orussey Market has meals starting at 5,000 riel. The Night Market (between St 106 and St 108, riverside) offers decent dinners for US$2-4. Upscale options include Java Creative Cafe for vegetarian fare, Aussie XL for wood-fired pizza, and Anise for comfort food with free Wi-Fi. For coffee, try Cousin's Burger Coffee (French-run), Mr. Piccolo Coffee (good cakes), or The Shop for sandwiches and fresh baked goods. Bars include FCC (Foreign Correspondents' Club) on the riverfront, Eclipse Sky Bar at the tallest building for US$3 Tiger draught, and Liquid for inventive cocktails.

Must-see attractions include the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda (US$10, 08:00-10:00 & 14:00-17:00) with its manicured gardens and colorful glass tiles. The National Museum of Cambodia (US$10, daily 08:00-17:00) contains excellent Angkor-period art. Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21 Prison, US$5, 08:00-17:00) is where over 14,000 people were tortured; audio tour extra. The Killing Fields at Choeung Ek (US$6 with audio, 07:30-17:30) are 17 km south—tuk-tuk about US$7 one way. Wat Phnom (US$1 for foreigners) marks where the city was founded. Evening Mekong River Cruises start at US$8 with snacks or dinners at sunset. Meta House shows free films Tu-Su nights at 19:00. Hash House Harriers meet Sundays at 14:15 at the railway station (US$5).

Be wary when walking alone at night. Daytime phone and bag snatching is not uncommon—women are main targets. Keep phone and bag toward the middle of tuk-tuks; when on motorbike taxis, keep belongings between you and the driver or in front. Scammers work tourist areas like the riverfront, Hun Sen Park, and Sorya Mall—beware of new friends inviting you to dinner and rigged card games. Ignore fake monks; call tourist police (012 942 4840) if harassed. Most Phnom Penh bars and clubs are safe, but some "hip" venues attract local "elite" youth who carry firearms and pass through security checks unsearched.

Internet cafes include Cybercity 8 (US$0.50/hr, 24/7, fiber optic) and Sunny Internet on St 178 (US$1/hr, popular with expats). WiFi is available at most guesthouses and cafes. Electricity is occasionally strained. Mobile coverage is available through local SIM cards.

Backpacker daily budget: dorm beds US$4-12, street food 5,000-10,000 riel per meal, tuk-tuk rides US$1-5, museum entrances US$5-10. A basic day including accommodation, food, and transport can cost US$15-30. Mid-range travelers should budget US$30-60 per day for private rooms and restaurant meals.

The Killing Fields at Choeung Ek (17 km south) take 40-60 minutes by taxi or motorbike—combine with Tuol Sleng on a tour (US$16) or go independently. Phnom Tamao Zoological Park and Wildlife Rescue Center (along National Road No 2) is Cambodia's largest zoo with rescued animals including sun bears and tigers. Former M-13 Prison (50 km northwest) is one of the largest Khmer Rouge camps with large pits where prisoners were kept.

Dress decently at the Royal Palace—no bare legs or shoulders, no scarves or shawls (shorts covering knees are okay). At the Killing Fields, wear respectable clothing such as long pants and no sleeveless shirts as a sign of respect for the genocide victims. Touts and beggars abound in tourist areas; a firm but polite refusal works. Older or disabled beggars will accept 500 riel; anyone old enough to have survived the Khmer Rouge has had a tough life. Do not encourage cocky young kids demanding dollars.

Phnom Penh serves as a transport hub for onward journeys. Royal Railway connects to other Cambodian cities. Buses depart from various terminals including Sorya bus terminal. From here, travelers continue to Siem Reap (for Angkor Wat), beach towns like Sihanoukville, or cross borders to Vietnam or Thailand.