Kampong Cham

Kampong Cham is Cambodia's seventh largest city but remains off the typical tourist trail, preserving a genuine "wild west" feel with colonial French architecture and little foreign investment. The city of 41,000 residents (2010) has a slow recovery underway since a modern two-lane bridge across the Mekong connected it to surrounding areas. Those who spend at least a couple of days enjoy the laid-back atmosphere, riverside hammock hangs, and nearby temples without capital-city chaos.

As capital of Kampong Cham province, the city has a sizeable Cham minority including a disproportionately high number of Muslims and Christians. Prime Minister Hun Sen and former Phnom Penh Governor Chea Sophara hail from this province, and the current governor is the PM's brother—explaining some infrastructure projects relative to other Cambodian cities. Despite little large-scale tourism and few modern buildings, residents remain very friendly and open to engaging with tourists.

Kampong Cham has road links to major Cambodian cities including Phnom Penh. The highway between Kampong Cham and the capital runs along the Mekong, with frequent daily buses. Travelers heading north to Kratie and Laos will find buses readily available, with Hwy 7 in good condition all the way to the border.

The city centre is easily walkable and is found north of the highway. Western-style restaurants cluster around the river front, with the central market area a couple of streets further east. However, most worthwhile sites are outside the city, requiring motorized transport such as motodop (motorcycle taxi) or tuk-tuk.

The bamboo bridge connecting Koh Paen Island is washed away during the wet season when the river rises, with access only possible by boat. The bridge is rebuilt every dry season, making that period ideal for visiting the island villages. Traditional Apsara dances at Wat Nokor are performed mainly on weekends and holidays, typically around 17:00.

Decent accommodation options cluster at or close to the riverside. Fan rooms with TV and private bathroom cost around US$5, while guesthouses range from US$3-5 but often offer tiny rooms sometimes rented by the hour. Higher-end options include the Monorom VIP Hotel (US$25) with spotlessly clean rooms and stunning river views, and the Hanchey Bamboo Resort (US$27-40) offering eco-friendly rooms 20km north with an outdoor pool and yoga classes.

Western-style restaurants cluster at the river front, while budget travellers can access local foods at the food market south of Psar Thom. Local restaurants at the north end of the market offer cheap tofu and seafood dishes (2,000-4,000 riel) but require caution regarding hygiene. Riverside beers cost 2,000 riel each, with stalls staying open late. Fresh sugar cane juice is sold on every corner for about 1,000 riel a glass.

Kampong Cham is a sleepy provincial capital where those seeking constant activities will become bored within a day. Highlights include the Bamboo Bridge to Koh Paen Island with stilted Cham and Khmer villages, Nokor Wat—an 11th-century Angkorian temple with bone-filled mausoleums and elaborate torture-to-heaven wall paintings, and Pros and Srei Mountains with temples and a killing fields site. Phnom Hanchey, 25km north, offers stunning sunrise views over the Mekong for early risers.

Standard precautions apply—use common sense at markets where health hazards can affect unsuspecting Westerners. At the French Lookout Tower, the stairs are difficult and dangerous to climb, with a hornet's nest at the top. Some locals may try to charge a dollar for walking across the bamboo bridge, which is much more than the local toll. The city is very poor with little modern infrastructure.

Most travellers pass through Kampong Cham heading north to Kratie and beyond. Hwy 7 is in good condition all the way to the Laos border. Phnom Penh is the main southbound destination, reachable by frequent buses along the Mekong highway. The Cambodia Public Bank ATM is the last one accepting international cards when heading north until Pakse in Laos.