Nkhata Bay

Nkhata Bay is a small, bustling fishing village of about 15,000 inhabitants overlooking Lake Malawi. The town has a long history as a backpacker destination and was once famous for offering "the cheapest diving course in the world" and dorm beds with breakfast for one U.S. dollar a night. Today it offers a relaxed atmosphere with affordable lodges, excellent freshwater diving among cichlid fishes, and access to the MV Ilala ferry that traverses Lake Malawi.

The town is home to the Tonga people who are famed for their love of fine clothing — it's common to see older men dressed in full suits with Homburg hats, spats and canes. After some budget places closed, more expensive lodges have opened, and tours by overland truck have become a more common way of seeing Malawi than independent backpacking. The town has several places to sleep but they're rarely fully booked.

The dry season from May to November offers considerably less rain and comfortable temperatures ranging from 15.2°C to 30.2°C. The rainy season runs from December to April, which may disrupt travel but also means fewer tourists. June to August are the coolest months with temperatures around 15-26°C.

The MV Ilala ferry visits Nkhata Bay twice a week — arriving at midnight between Saturday and Sunday and leaving early morning. The ferry heads north to Usisya, Ruaware and ultimately to Chilumba, or south to Cape Maclear via Likoma Island or east to Mbamba Bay in Tanzania. Minibuses to Mzuzu leave frequently throughout the day from the town centre. A daily 6:30AM AXA commuter bus travels down the lake shore via Nkhotakota and Salima to Lilongwe.

Nkhata Bay is fairly small and walkable. You can hire a water taxi to travel from one end of the village to the other, which is also a scenic way to see the coastline. Most hostels and hotels have vehicles, and you can usually hitch a ride when they head into town for supplies.

The lake is central to activities — Chikale beach is a gentle 20-minute walk from town. Diving in Lake Malawi reveals mouth-breeding cichlid fishes representing the most diverse vertebrate radiation on Earth. Aqua Africa offers PADI-certified diving with single dives from $50 and open water courses from $400. Lodges can arrange day trips to Usisya, Ruaware, Kande Beach, Likoma Island and Chizumulu Island, plus longer 2-3 day trips. Don't miss the fish eagle feeding at the cliff face south of Njaya Lodge.

The Kawalazi coffee plantation is located roughly halfway between Mzuzu and Nkhata Bay with a friendly Sikh manager who happily shows visitors around. The rubber and tea plantation at Chombe and research farms dot the land between Nkhata Bay and Mzuzu — hiring a bike is the best way to explore these. Day trips can also go north to Usisya and Ruaware or south to Kande Beach.

Lodges all have restaurants, and several independent restaurants change regularly in town. If you have a dollar, you can find a burger, Malawian pizza, or a great Chambo (fish) dinner. For local food, find the large tree in the middle of the market for reasonably priced meals under the branches. Kaya Papaya offers Thai food, pizzas, and cocktails on an atmospheric topdeck. Sahara Leisures serves breakfast, burgers, pasta and soups for K2000-3000.

Njaya Lodge, about a mile outside town, is among the most popular backpacker spots — Paul and Claire Norrish built it in 1993 with cottage accommodation at $60-80/night. Mayoka Village offers camping ($5), dorm beds ($12), cottages ($20/person) and chalets ($30-50), famous for its weekly barbecue and vibrant atmosphere. Big Blue Backpackers has dorms from MK2000 with a big screen TV and panoramic lake views. Butterfly Space offers chalets from Mk1000-5000 with a private beach and community projects. Soul Rebel Lodge has dorms at $15, singles at $21, and doubles at $38-50.

Be careful walking at night and do not carry all your cash with you, especially between the town and lodges to the south. A frequent problem is Rastas trying to sell marijuana who work with police to shake down tourists for bribes. Note that while guesthouses may claim Nkhata Bay is Bilharzia-free, evidence suggests this may not be accurate. Since treatment is simple and inexpensive (roughly $2 in most African countries), travelers going into the water are advised to take the single-dose medication within a month of exposure.

There are two Internet cafés in town on side roads off the main road with slow but usable speeds. Rates cost 400 MWK/hour at most locations. A new café opened at Butterfly Lodge, while Aqua Africa has the fastest connection (600 MWK/hour) but only two computers.

The MV Ilala ferry makes a lovely round trip — take it north and return on Tuesday when it heads south to Cape Maclear via Likoma Island or east to Mbamba Bay in Tanzania. Suitable 2-3 day excursions include Usisya and Ruaware (north), Likoma Island and Chizumulu Island (in the lake), and Kande Beach (south, about 40 km away). Minibuses to Mzuzu leave frequently throughout the day.