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Cape Maclear
Africa · Malawi
See also
Blantyre
Malawi15.79°S 35.01°E · 1,039 m
Lilongwe
Malawi13.98°S 33.78°E · 1,050 m
Overview
Cape Maclear (aka Chembe) is a small fishing village on Lake Nyasa in Malawi. It has one dirt road, a few hostels, dive shops, vendors, and bars.
Languages: English, Chewa
Why go?
Cape Maclear (aka Chembe) is a small fishing village on Lake Nyasa in Malawi. It has one dirt road, a few hostels, dive shops, vendors, and bars. The pace of life is very slow. Mumbo Island, 4 km offshore, offers freshwater diving, kayaking, and hammocks. This old hippy hangout retains a laid-back atmosphere.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Understand
A fishing village of about 10,000. Fishermen live in the center; tourists stay at either end. Walking through town offers a glimpse of local life.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Get in
From Lilongwe bus station, take a minibus to Monkey Bay for a few bucks. Then flag a pick-up to Cape Maclear for a few more dollars. Budget the entire day, though the trip is short.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Get around
Cape Maclear is very small; a short stroll gets you everywhere. The drive from Monkey Bay goes through beautiful sunlit forest in Lake Malawi National Park.
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See
There is a beautiful beach. The Missionary Graves (north end of town) are the final resting places of the first missionaries, who died in 1875.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Do
Doing as little as possible is the point. Hiking: an 80-minute trail to a viewing point near Missionary Graves. Sunset cruises on a catamaran (no toilet). Kayak Africa offers scuba diving day excursions and PADI courses. Pete's Aqualand and Danforth Lodge also offer lake trips.
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Buy
Curio vendors sell hand-carved backgammon and mancala boards at reasonable prices. Beach boys sell canoe trips, reed cars, chocolate cakes, and jewellery. They can be aggressive; Simon is recommended. There are many dive shops.
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Eat
Small Malawian restaurants along the main road offer seafood dinners (about $2 for a big Chambo fillet). Chips (french fries) sold by boys on the road; ask for 'brown' for crispy. Arrange a fish dinner on the beach with a beach boy. Fat Monkeys has Western food and pizza. Cape Mac Lodge & Froggies offers French cuisine.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Drink
Fat Monkeys is a lively spot for drinks. For a quiet night, buy beers on the quiet side of the village and watch the moon rise over the lake.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Sleep
Options range from very cheap (Stevens' Guest House from $3/night) to dorms ($10-14) and camping ($8). Fat Monkeys is popular with backpackers. Tuckaways offers chalets ($50) with lake views. Thumbi View Lodge has dorms and rooms. More upscale: Cape Mac Lodge (around $67-91 pppn including dinner) and Danforth Yachting ($150/night).
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Stay healthy
Malaria is high risk all year; take precautions. Schistosomiasis (bilharzia) from lake water; symptoms include painless bloody urine. Get tested if symptoms appear. Do not drink tap water; it comes from the lake.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Connect
Cape Maclear is covered by a Skyband hotspot at lodges. Purchase access cards at reasonable price.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Go next
Cape Maclear is a traveler's black hole. For more beach time: Senga Bay, Monkey Bay, Nkhata Bay. Zomba is the former capital, a wooded mountain town. Lake Malawi National Park is also nearby.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Field guide adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0. Text has been adapted and organized for this guide. About our sources.
Places to know
A few starting points from the guide. Check current hours and prices before you go.
- sleep
Cape Mac Lodge
Next to Fat Monkeys it offers elegantly decorated rooms (with lofts) for singles, couples or families. Some of the things that set this place apart from the others is 1) the French cuisine (truly looked after by a real, live French woman with years of experience in Africa) and 2) a small in-ground pool just perfect for lounging with a drink in your hand from the well stocked bar and restaurant.
Recorded price: Rate: includes dinner, bed and breakfast US$67.50 pppn (twin/double), $91.50 pppn (single)
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- sleep
Chembe Eagles Nest
Accommodation in chalets shaded by lush gardens, right on Cape Maclear's only private beach. Classy meals and lovely bar. Sailing, sundowner cruises and other water activities available. Secluded lake-side camping also offered.
Recorded price: US$60-75/night
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- sleep
Danforth Yachting
Recorded price: Around US$150/night including activities
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- sleep
Domwe Island
Domwe Island is an entirely off grid, sustainably run camp on a pristine island 5 km off Cape Maclear. It is run by Kayak Africa and you can rent a kayak or boat to get there, camp or stay in a fully-equipped tent, self-cater or hire a chef. Great place for families and outdoor enthusiasts - or just those who love a quiet beach and a beautiful place.
Recorded price: US$25-50
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- sleep
Fat Monkeys
Situated on the beach with an excellent bar, very friendly staff and good cheap food. Activities such as boat trips, kayaking and scuba diving can be arranged by Fat Monkeys (or by the beach boys). Fat Monkeys has long been popular with backpackers. FatMonkeys is a Skyband wireless Internet hotspot.
Recorded price: Lake view family chaletsː US$120, standard double rooms, en-suite double roomsː US$65-75, dormː US$10, campingː US$8
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- sleep
Mgoza Lodge
A casual lodge with chalets with lake views and a friendly vibe. Watersports equipment, kayaks and boat trips are available nearby.
Recorded price: Around US$60/night
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- sleep
Mumbo Island
Run on strict eco principles and is entirely off grid, it has only 7 tents, which are set into the bush on the tiny heart-shaped uninhabited islet attached to the island by a wooden bridge. Waters around the island are bilharzia-free and perfect for swimming, snorkeling, and kayaking. Mumbo is fully catered.
Recorded price: US$275
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- sleep
Stevens' Guest House
Among the quirkiest options for accommodation, offering simple, cheap rooms, including a bathroom, mosquito net, and double bed. Mr. Steven is a gruff, elderly Malawian man who must have presaged Cape Maclear as a relaxing, hedonistic destination decades ago.
Recorded price: US$3/night.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
Before you go
Connectivity
Skyband WiFi hotspot at lodges; access cards available.
Money
Prices are often quoted in USD. Cash is common; Visa and Paypal accepted at some dive shops.
Safety
Beach boys can be aggressive. Malaria and schistosomiasis are risks.
Water
Do not drink tap water; it comes from the lake.