Muzaffarabad

Muzaffarabad is the capital of Azad Kashmir, sitting at the confluence of the Jhelum and Neelum rivers at 737m elevation. The city was founded in 1646 by Sultan Muzaffar Khan and served as a defense point against the Mughals. After devastating destruction from the October 2005 earthquake that killed over 75,000 people, the city has been slowly rebuilding, with tent camps and NGOs once filling the streets. Today it serves as the gateway to the scenic Neelum Valley, with hiking trails in the Pir Chinassi foothills and access to mountain viewpoints like Makra Choti at 12,000 feet.

By road is the only practical way to reach Muzaffarabad. Buses and minibuses make the scenic 4-5 hour journey regularly from Islamabad. If self-driving from Islamabad, the route via Murree is the quickest. Kohala is the entry point into Azad Kashmir where you'll pass a checkpoint. After Murree the road becomes thin and winding but very scenic. Allow 3 hours to reach Kohala Bridge and another hour to Muzaffarabad. The road is often under repair with slow, unpaved, and bumpy sections. Driving in daylight is highly recommended for first-time visitors. The city's airport is not operational.

Local transport within Muzaffarabad includes auto-rickshaws, taxis, and shared vans. The city is relatively compact with main roads following the river valleys. Red Fort sits on Neelum Rd on the north side of town. Jalabad Garden is on Jalabad Stadium Rd. For reaching attractions like Pir Chinasi (17km), Patikka (19km), or Dhani Waterfall (39km), you'll need to arrange a car or hire a driver. The Tourism Department can be contacted at Tel: 058810-32625 to arrange transport to tourist spots and rest houses.

The best time to visit Muzaffarabad is during spring (March-May) when flowers bloom in the gardens and temperatures are mild. Summer (June-August) brings tourists to the hills to escape the plains heat, making it popular but crowded. Autumn (September-November) offers clear views and pleasant temperatures. Winter can be cold and some mountain roads may become difficult. The city sits at 737m elevation so summers are cooler than the Pakistani plains. Pir Chinasi and Shaheed Gali at 1,640m offer relief from summer heat.

Muzaffarabad offers various accommodation options ranging from budget guest houses to the five-star Pearl Continental. The Pearl Continental on Upper Chattar near AJK state buildings costs Rs 12,000 and includes free breakfast, restaurant, pool, hot tub, gym, laundry, and wifi. More budget-friendly options include Muzaffarabad Inn on Police Line Rd in Naluchi near the Earthquake Memorial Bridge, offering basic family rooms with wifi and free parking. Orash Lodge Guest House on 61-B Upper Chattar has a rooftop veranda, restaurant, and laundry. West End Guest House behind National Bank Gojra is economical and clean with wifi but no restaurant. Sangam Hotel near Quaid-e-Azam Bridge and Red Fort offers balconies with Neelum River views for around US$48 with restaurant and wifi.

Pakistani and Kashmiri cuisine are available throughout Muzaffarabad. The Pearl Continental has Chinese and Continental restaurants with amazing views. Chicken Karahi is a popular local dish and easy to find being freshly cooked. Kashmiri Nan bread is highly recommended. Don't miss Kashmiri Pink Tea, a local specialty. Kashmiri Kulcha differs from the Lahore variety and makes a good snack. For authentic Kashmiri dishes like Goshtaba, head to Kashmiri Bazaar in the middle of the city accessible via Upper Adda near AJK University or through Madina Market. The same area offers Kashmiri tea, Kulcha, and Kashmiri Bakarkhani. Al Baik Food Park on Red Fort Rd east of the fort serves chicken skewers by the river and is open Tu-Th 08:00-23:00, F Sa 08:00-00:00, closed Sun and Mon. In restaurants, it's wise to ask what is freshly cooked.

Muzaffarabad offers several historical and natural attractions. Red Fort Muzaffarabad was completed in 1646 by Sultan Muzaffar Khan and sits surrounded on three sides by the Neelum River. Black Fort stands on the opposite bank. Jalabad Garden on Jalabad Stadium Rd is open daily 08:00-20:00 with tulips in season and views. Patikka, 19km from town up Neelum Valley, is a gateway to the valley with a mini zoo and fish hatchery plus a popular Tourism Department Rest House. Pir Chinasi offers scenic beauty with velvet green plateaus and mountain views, ideal for hiking and camping. The Tourism Department has also built a tourist lodge at Saran. Shaheed Gali Tourist Rest House sits at 1,640m elevation 16km west of town, with a 4km trek to Sri Kot. Dhani Waterfall, 39km northeast on Neelum Rd, is 15m high and the highest in the valley. Chikar Highland Resort is 40km south on Chakothi Rd at the top of a mountain with excellent climate and scenery.

Muzaffarabad is generally safe for travelers but certain precautions apply. As Azad Kashmir is a sensitive border region, be prepared for military checkpoints when entering and moving around. The area near the Line of Control with India requires extra sensitivity. Avoid discussing political topics related to Kashmir or India. Alcohol is officially prohibited as Pakistan is an Islamic country, though it can be unofficially purchased at some hotels by knowing the right people. Stick to bottled water, locally called mineral water, available in half-liter, one-liter, and three-liter bottles. Tap water should not be consumed.

Mobile connectivity is available through Pakistani carriers including Jazz, Telenor, and Zong with 4G coverage in urban areas. WiFi is commonly available at hotels and guesthouses including Muzaffarabad Inn, Orash Lodge, Pearl Continental, Sangam Hotel, and West End Guest House. SIM cards are readily available in the city. Power plugs use Type C (European two-pin) and Type D (three large round pins) sockets, common in Pakistan. It's advisable to carry a universal adapter.

Muzaffarabad is very budget-friendly for backpackers. Guest house accommodation ranges from Rs 3,000-6,000 per night. Meals cost Rs 300-800 depending on whether you eat at local dhabas or restaurants. Transport within the city is cheap via auto-rickshaws. Long-distance bus fares to Islamabad are reasonable. Attractions like Jalabad Garden have small entry fees. Budget travelers can manage on Rs 2,000-3,000 per day excluding accommodation. Daily costs with mid-range accommodation and meals would be around Rs 4,000-6,000.

Several attractions can be visited as day trips from Muzaffarabad. Pir Chinasi is 17km from town and offers hiking and scenic mountain views. Patikka is 19km away with its mini zoo and gateway to Neelum Valley. Dhani Waterfall is 39km northeast along the scenic Neelum River Valley, which itself is a highlight of the region. Chikar Highland Resort is 40-46km south past the town of Chikkar, a beautiful summer station in dense pine forests. Shaheed Gali at 1,640m is 16km west with trekking opportunities to Sri Kot. Subri Lake offers scenic river views. Makra Choti (Spider Peak) at 12,000 feet provides mountaintop vistas among the clouds.

As an Islamic region, modest dress is expected particularly for women who should cover their hair when visiting mosques. Remove shoes before entering mosques and religious sites. Greet locals with Assalamu Alaikum (peace be upon you) and respond with Wa Alaikum Assalam. Avoid public displays of affection. Ask permission before photographing people, especially women. During Ramadan, avoid eating, drinking, or smoking in public during daylight hours. Tipping is appreciated but not mandatory at restaurants. Bargaining is expected at markets but should be done respectfully.

From Muzaffarabad you can continue to several destinations. Hunza is famous for ancient watch towers in Ganish, Baltit Fort and Altit Fort. Islamabad is the Pakistani capital located on the Pothohar Plateau, one of the earliest known human settlement sites in Asia. Skardu offers incomparable mountain peaks and glaciers in Baltistan with five valleys noted for their peaches, apricots, apples, and pears. Srinagar in India is accessible via the Srinagar-Muzaffarabad bus route through the Line of Control, home to beautiful gardens. Rawalakot features Banjosa Lake and Hot Springs in the Tatta Pani area.