Maun

Maun is Botswana's "tourism capital" and the essential jumping-off point for the Okavango Delta. In 2021, about 85,000 people called this town home. Despite its growth with shopping centres, hotels, lodges and car hire services, Maun retains a rural atmosphere where local tribesmen still bring cattle to sell at the market. The community spreads along the wide banks of the Thamalakane River, where red lechwe can be seen grazing alongside donkeys, goats and cattle.

Maun Airport (IATA: MUB) is right in town, about two blocks from the major shopping centre. Air Botswana operates regular services from Gaborone, Kasane, Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe, and Johannesburg in South Africa. Airlink flies from Cape Town and Johannesburg. The airport passenger terminal location makes it convenient for immediate onward travel to camps and safari operations.

The core of Maun, from Riley's Hotel to the airport, is walkable but usually hot. Taxis and combis have blue licence plates. Expect to pay P30 for a taxi to the camps north of town. To signal you want a taxi, stick your arm out parallel to the ground, palm-down, and flap your fingers. Taxis have no central dispatch system, so you'll need a driver's mobile number for remote pickups. Driving after dark is dangerous due to animals on the road. Combis run from the bus station along ten specified routes, including Route 1 (north to airport and camps) and Route 7 (southeast to Maun Educational Park).

Maun has a couple of hotels (most notably Riley's) and some unimpressive B&Bs in town proper. Many campsites and backpacker-friendly accommodations are clustered on the road to Moremi and Shorobe, about 6-10 km north-east of Maun Airport, just after the road crosses the Thamalakane River. A combi ride into Maun costs about P3, while a taxi costs about P30. Options include Audi Camp (camping P45/person, tents P150-300/2 people), Sedia Riverside Hotel (camping P120/person, rooms from P950), The Old Bridge Backpackers (P660), Motsebe Backpackers Hostel (P100/180 for camping/dorms), and Crocodile Camp for chalets and campsites.

Local dishes include papa (maize meal, the staple), magunya (fried dough balls available for around 50 thebe), seswa (shredded meat, usually beef or goat), and morogo (green leafy vegetable similar to spinach). Mopane worms (the caterpillar of the mopane moth) are available dried and salted, stewed or fried when in season. For dining, try Bon Arrivee across from the airport, Hilary's Coffee Shop for cheap homemade dishes popular with locals, or Audi Camp with its large thatch-roof open kitchen. French Connection on Mophane Avenue serves excellent shawarmas with homemade lemonade. RAW offers smoothies and wraps for health-conscious travellers. Trekkers Nightclub and Bar 2000 cater for nightlife.

Maun is a prime take-off point for mobile safaris into the Okavango Delta, national parks and game reserves. Moremi Game Reserve, a world-class game reserve, is 80 km away offering undisturbed game viewing in varied woodland and plains environments. A mokoro trip in a traditional dugout canoe through the Okavango Delta waterways, combined with overnight camping or hiking, can be arranged through any travel agency. For those staying in town, there's a gym with day passes behind Hilary's (next to the naturopath). Several air operators offer scenic flights: Delta Air (US$700-980 per plane), Kavango Air (P1,500 up to 3 passengers), Sefofane (P2,000 up to 5 passengers), and Helicopters Horizons for helicopter tours (45 min US$295, 1 hr US$385).

Mobile phone service in Maun is excellent out to about 20 to 25 kilometres (12 to 16 mi), depending on weather conditions. This coverage extends to most of the popular camps and safari areas near town, though remote Delta locations may have limited or no signal.

From Maun, day trips can be arranged to Moremi Game Reserve (80 km), Nxai Pan National Park, Tsodilo Hills, and Gchiwaha. Gumasema Adventures & Safaris offers day trips to these destinations from their office at Unit 8, First Floor, Laha House, Old Mall (8AM to 6PM). Mokoro excursions in Boro/Daunara areas are popular half-day options departing from Maun.

Driving after dark is dangerous due to wildlife on the roads. Trekkers Nightclub is popular primarily with locals; expats may warn against it, but it is perfectly safe if you're reasonably cautious. Taxis are fewer after dark, so plan accordingly. Animals including cattle, donkeys, and goats roam the outskirts of town.

Maun is the gateway to the Okavango Delta, a must-see destination in Botswana. Self-drive safaris in a 4x4 are possible to Khwai community area (booking office in Maun) or Moremi with careful planning. Other accessible national parks include Chobe National Park, Central Kalahari Game Reserve, Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, Khutse Game Reserve, Makgadikgadi Pans National Park, Mokolodi Nature Reserve, and Nxai Pan National Park.