Mar del Plata

Mar del Plata is Argentina's second most touristic city after Buenos Aires, drawing visitors with 47 km of Atlantic coastline, wide bays, and dramatic cliffs. The city has 700,000 year-round residents but swells dramatically in summer months (December-March) when Porteños (Buenos Aires residents) flood the beaches. Beyond the beach scene, the city offers Victorian summer homes in neighborhoods like Los Troncos and La Perla, a working fishing port supplying much of Argentina's seafood, and one of the country's most vibrant theatre seasons.

Mar del Plata is approximately 400 km from Buenos Aires. You can reach the city by plane via Astor Piazzolla International Airport (with Aerolineas flights several times daily during high season from various cities), by bus, by train, or by car via Route 2 (toll road). The main railway and bus station is located at San Juan 1473.

Taxis are very cheap at around US$5 per 4 kilometers (2010 prices; Argentina has approximately 20% annual inflation so ARS prices change but remain stable in USD). A large local bus network operates but requires a bus card purchased at the bus terminal or downtown offices, reloadable at drugstores. Remisse service offers taxi-like transport at discounted rates through a call-in system. Mar del Plata is highly walkable with 28 km of lit, paved coastal promenade. English is rarely spoken, so basic Spanish is helpful.

The most popular time is December through March, with January and February being hottest and most crowded. The city hosts major theatre and cultural festivals during these summer months. Off-season (April-November) offers a much calmer experience with fewer tourists, though the weather is variable: autumn and spring are warm and humid, while winter is cold and very humid. The sports complex hosted the 1978 World Cup, 1995 Pan American Games, and 2008 Davis Cup final.

Mar del Plata has over 500 hotels, the majority falling into the two- and three-star category. Hotels get cheaper the further inland you go, but reasonable rates are still available two or three blocks from the beach. Budget options include Hotel Ramos Mejia (Double AR$60), Hotel Galeon (Double AR$100), and Hotel Patio Del Mar (basic two-star, four blocks from the beach). Mid-range options include Hotel Selent (Single AR$94, Double AR$134, apartments from AR$300) and Hotel Denver (three-star with gym and WiFi). Luxury properties include Hotel Dora (faded four-star with pool and spa, Triple AR$320), Sheraton Mar del Plata (from US$100), and Costa Galana (most expensive hotel in town).

Mar del Plata is a seafood lover's paradise thanks to its working fishing port. The Puerto area offers fresh mariscos, rabas, and fish at numerous portside restaurants including Sarasanegro, Sur Restaurante, Justiniano, La Casa Vieja, and Alito. Traditional Argentine beef is ubiquitous: Parrilla La Gringa and Palacio del Bife serve excellent parillas (mixed grills), with Bife de Chorizo (sirloin steak) being the local favorite. For quick bites, try empanadas at Bariloche on Calle Mitre, alfajores (dulce de leche cake sandwiches) at Havanna shops, or medialunas (mini-croissants) for breakfast. The most traditional restaurant is Manolo with three branches (Rivadavia, coast, and Alem), famous for churros. Ice cream lovers should seek out Capurro Helado near Punta Iglesia and dulce de leche helado in the Alem section. Alem Street features upscale dining, while Olavarria Street near Guemes has pubs and beer options.

The city has 28 km of coastline with the most popular beaches in the south and downtown areas. Beach etiquette includes the Argentine tradition of kicking sand on blankets. Head to Waikiki Beach on the outskirts for a relaxed surfing environment with an excellent surf school. Take the 221 bus south to Playa Serena and other southern beaches. The Casino building is worth visiting even if you don't gamble (beautiful architecture from another era). Theatre shows at Teatro Colón are excellent value at just 15 pesos. For culture, visit Museo MAR (Av Felix U. Camet, free entry), Museo Municipal de Ciencias Naturales Lorenzo Scaglia at Plaza España (AR$2 adults), and the Aquarium Mar del Plata (Av. Martinez de Hoz 5600). The Zoológico El Paraíso (Ruta 226 km 16) houses 300 species over 8 hectares with night and day tours. Window shopping on Güemes Street offers trendy fashion and cafes. The Banquina de Pescadores (fishing wharf) provides views of the working port.

Mar del Plata earns its nickname 'The Happy City' with round-the-clock energy. Alem Street is the nightlife hub for high-end restaurants and pubs. Olavarria Street near Guemes is the spot for beer and cocktails. Most discotheques including Bruto, Mr Jones, and Quba are concentrated in the Playa Grande area. Theatre lovers should catch shows as soon as they arrive—tickets sell out fast.

For quieter coastal experiences, head north or south along the coast to towns including Mar Chiquita, Villa Gesell, and Pinamar. The Sierra de los Padres area offers a day trip into the hills behind the city.

Key shopping areas include Avenida Juan B. Justo, Diagonal de los Artesanos (artisan diagonal), Calle Guemes (trendy fashion and cafes), and Peatonal San Martín (pedestrian shopping street). Havanna shops throughout the city sell alfajores that make excellent gifts to bring home.

WiFi is available at select hotels including Hotel Selent (lobby WiFi) and Hotel Denver. English is rarely spoken throughout the city, so basic Spanish is essential for communication.

The 28 km coastal promenade with lights and pavement is described as pretty safe for walking. Exercise normal urban precautions, particularly during the busy summer season when the city swells with visitors.