Loikaw

Loikaw is the administrative capital of Kayah State in eastern Myanmar, population ~140,670, serving as a gateway to the Karenni and Kayan ethnic groups near the Thai border. The area opened to tourism in the early 2010s after decades of conflict, offering a rare chance to visit Kayan Lahwi/Padaung villages with their distinctive brass neck coils. The landscape of plains, lakes, and forested hills provides a scenic backdrop, while the Lawpita hydroelectric dam supplies ~30% of national electricity. This is frontier travel: infrastructure is limited, guides are recommended, and some areas remain mined from prior conflict.

Loikaw has a single-gate airport (5 min north of city centre) with flights from Yangon via Myanmar National Airlines (daily) and Air KBZ (Mon/Wed/Fri). By bus: Loikaw Bus Station is north of the airport on NH5, with minivans to regional towns and long-distance buses. From Kalaw: ~5,000 kyat, 7 hours, departing Kalaw at 04:30 from Morning Star eatery behind Aung Chan Tha Zedi. From Taunggyi: ~3,500 kyat, 5 hours, departing Bus Station ti Hsiseng at 07:30. By train: Loikaw Train Station connects via Aungban junction (branch line built 1992) from Thazi on the Yangon-Mandalay main line; the trip is slow but scenic and tickets are cheap, sold only at stations.

Most of Loikaw town is walkable. Bicycle or motorbike rental is available at Loikaw Souvenirs (No.1, Kandayawadi Street, across from Mingalar Hotel, phone +95 9 560 0125) where owner Victoria organizes tours. Tuktuks and taxis can be hired for shorter trips. Local buses travel the main road with ticket prices based on distance. For sights further away (lakes, caves, waterfalls), a hired private car is recommended due to remoteness and lack of public transport; a 4x4 may be necessary on dirt roads. The monsoon season impairs travel to outlying areas.

The monsoon season (roughly June-October) impairs travel to remote dirt-road destinations including Htee Sel Kwar Waterfalls, Seven Lakes, and Kayan villages. Cooler months (November-February) offer the most comfortable weather for exploring. Note that travel to off-the-beaten-track regions may still require permits, and guides are recommended for safety and navigation in this heavily mined region.

Budget options include Moon Joy Inn (8,000 kyat, basic rooms, shared facilities) and Thingaha Inn ($15 single/$25 double, shared bathrooms, basic breakfast included). Mid-range choices are Nan Ayar Inn (15,000-25,000 kyat depending on room type) and Kayan Golden Sky Motel ($30-45, AC, satellite TV, private bathroom, free wifi, breakfast on rooftop, free bicycle loan, motorbike rental available). Most guesthouses are closed after ~21:30.

Local specialty is Hin Htote (rice flour and meat steamed in banana leaf) at Mingalar Hin Htote (~500 kyat, 07:00-16:00). Shan Noodle Shop serves rice noodles with spices, peanuts, and chilis near the clock tower. Cheap noodles go for 500 kyat at a shop north of the wooden bridge on Highway 5. Dumplings stuffed with tofu and spring onions cost 1,200 kyat (good for two) at market stalls north of Shwe Thaung Monastery. Tea houses with fried food are freshest early morning. Burmese beer (Dagon) and homemade moonshine from grains are popular drinks. Note: most eateries close by 21:30 and open after 08:00.

Taung Kwe Pagoda sits impressively on a limestone pinnacle with smaller pagodas around it; camera fee is 300/500 kyat for photos or 1,000 kyat for video, lit spectacularly at night. Naung Yar Lake in the city center has a wooden bridge crossing it—popular for sunset walks. The Kayah State Cultural Museum (M-Sa 9AM-4PM) displays 400+ artifacts from ethnic groups. For day trips: Htee Sel Khar Waterfalls (1 hour north, free) has a pontoon bridge straddling Kayah/Shan states; Kyet Cave (1 hour east, free) contains ancient wooden coffins (bring a flashlight—it's pitch black inside); Umbrella Pond (30 min south, free) features mud bubbles forming umbrella-shaped mounds; Seven Lakes (1 hour south, free) offers scenic hills backdrop.

From Loikaw Bus Station, buses connect to Kalaw (5,000 kyat, ~7 hours) and Taunggyi (3,500 kyat, ~5 hours). The train station provides access to Aungban and the broader Myanmar rail network via Thazi. Kayan people villages south of Loikaw around Demoso (5,000-10,000 kyat for organized transport) offer cultural visits in the mountains between 1,000-1,500m elevation west of the Salween river. Ngwe Taung Dam near Demoso forms a mirror-like lake popular for photos.

The region is heavily mined due to prior conflict between Karenni/Shan groups and the central government (ceasefire agreements reached in 2012). Travel to remote areas off the beaten track may still require permits, and a guide is recommended for navigation and safety. The Karenni National Progressive Party (KNPP) and other armed groups have offices and flags visible in the region. Refugees from the conflict are present in Thailand and internationally. Be cautious of road conditions during monsoon season.

You will see locals wearing traditional ethnic clothing, especially at markets. The Kayan/Karenni people are known for their distinctive dress, including the brass neck coils worn by Kayan Lahwi/Padaung women. Be respectful when photographing people, particularly in ethnic villages. Older villagers in some areas (e.g., Sunboon village) may not understand Burmese, so an interpreter may be needed for meaningful interaction.