Lijiang
East Asia · China
Did you know?
- A hereditary ruling family held power here from 1278 for about 500 years.
- Try Baba, fried white cheese, yak-milk yogurt, and fried yak meat skewers.
- Canals flow beneath traditional wooden houses along cobblestone streets.
See also
Shangrila
China27.83°N 99.70°E · 3,160 m
Dali
China25.70°N 100.16°E · 2,007 m
Overview
This UNESCO World Heritage city centers Naxi culture around canals, cobbled streets, and traditional wooden houses. It also offers a slower base for mountain excursions, village visits, and highland lakes.
Languages: Chinese
Why Go?
Lijiang is a UNESCO World Heritage city in Yunnan Province that served as the capital of a Naxi kingdom. The old town features ancient waterways and canals flowing along cobblestone streets beneath traditional Naxi wooden houses. It offers a slower pace than major Chinese cities with strong cultural attractions including the only living hieroglyphic writing system in the world.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Understand
Lijiang is the main cultural center of the Naxi people, who number under a million and are known for their unique embroidery, pictographic writing system (Dongba), and traditional music. The Naxi have their own language, religion, clothing, art, architecture, music, and dance. Other ethnic groups represented include Bai, Yi, and Tibetan people. The Mu family ruled the area as hereditary rulers from 1278 for about 500 years.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Getting In
Lijiang Sanyi International Airport (LJG) serves flights from major Chinese cities. Lijiang Railway Station has train connections to Dali (2½ hours) and Shangri-La (1½ hours). Lijiang Bus Station (25 Kangzhong Road, Gucheng District) is south of the old city with bus 8 connecting to the old town. Taxis from the railway station cost ¥30-40 without bargaining, or ¥15 with negotiation.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Getting Around
Walking is the only option in the old town as taxis cannot enter. Metered taxis start from ¥9 (as of Mar 2019) for travel elsewhere in town. Mini-buses cost ¥1-5 within the city. For day trips to nearby villages, chartered taxis or mini-buses cost ¥100-300 depending on Chinese language ability and negotiation skills.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
When to Go
The old town has a bonfire and local dancing at around 19:00 at Si Fang Jie (Square Street). Visit early morning to avoid crowds. Winter nights are chilly, so ensure accommodation has heating. Altitude sickness is a risk when visiting 4,000m-high mountains in the area.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Where to Stay
Lijiang offers accommodation for all budgets, from hostel dorms around ¥20-40 to luxury resorts exceeding ¥1,400. Budget guesthouses in traditional Naxi courtyard houses cluster in the old town, with doubles from ¥50-160. In winter, verify rooms have heated mattress pads or heating. Walking around to find rooms in low season is often better than pre-booking.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Food and Drink
Three primary cuisines: Naxi, Tibetan, and Sichuan. A bowl of noodles costs from ¥12-15. Street foods include Baba (flat wheatbread), Naxi style fried white cheese, yak milk yogurt, and fried yak meat on skewers. Lijiang cafes and restaurants close around 11PM unlike the rest of China. Bars must stop music at 23:30. Local beers Lijiang Yinjiu and Sulima are modern renditions of ancient Naxi and Mosuo beer types.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Things to Do
The Old Town of Lijiang is free to enter (maintenance fee abolished in 2017). Mu Palace (¥40) was the Naxi rulers' residence for over 400 years. Black Dragon Pool (¥50) offers views of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (¥130 entry) is 25km away with cable cars (¥170 round-trip). The Naxi Concert Hall offers traditional music shows for ¥120-160.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Stay Safe
The smaller streets in the old town are reported not to be safe at night; do not walk alone. Watch where you walk as cobblestones are slippery when wet and many canals lack handrails. Due to the Himalayan location, altitude sickness is a risk, especially at 4,000m-high mountains in the area.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Connectivity
Most cafes and guesthouses offer free WiFi. Many restaurants like N's Kitchen and Qiuyuege Restaurant provide free WiFi. Several hostels have computers with internet access. Power outlets use Chinese Type I plugs (three rectangular prongs). Mobile SIM cards are readily available in town.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Budget Planning
Budget travelers can manage on ¥150-250 per day including dorm accommodation (¥20-40), meals (¥40-60), local transport (¥20-30), and attraction entry fees (¥50-150). Street noodles (¥12-15) and local beers (¥40-80 per bottle) keep food costs reasonable. Popular souvenirs include Naxi embroidery, Dongba art samples, and yak horn combs.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Day Trips
Shuhe Old Town (8km north) is less commercialized than Lijiang with a horse ride attraction, reachable by bus 5a/5b/6/11 (30 minutes). Baisha Ancient Town (12km north) was the original Naxi settlement with ¥1 bus fare from Black Dragon Pool. Lashihai Lake Wetland Park (¥30) offers bird-watching, especially in winter months. Zhiyun Monastery near the lake is free and sees few tourists.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Etiquette
Lijiang is majority Naxi with strong Buddhist influences. Dress modestly when visiting temples and monasteries. When visiting Baisha village, elderly peddlers sell honey, fruits, and nuts at fair prices—supporting them is appreciated. Some bars may pressure tourists to buy flowers from girls—walk past Four Square street deeper into the old town for less pushy venues.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Go Next
Dali is the next main city south with direct buses to Xiaguan (Dali new town) and Dali ancient city; train takes 2½ hours. Shangri-La is north at ¥60 by express bus (about 4 hours, hourly departures). Both are reachable by train. Shaxi (between Lijiang and Dali) now has direct buses from Lijiang's main bus terminal. Qiaotou for Tiger Leaping Gorge costs about ¥25 by bus.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Field guide adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0. Text has been adapted and organized for this guide. About our sources.
Places to know
A few starting points from the guide. Check current hours and prices before you go.
- eat
Adam Restaurant
A unique restaurant inside the old town. There is no menu in this restaurant. Adam, the owner, will only cook when the visitors come in. You only need to enjoy the food he cooks and pay the food as your convenient. It is worth trying for the food adventure.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- eat
Country Sky
Serves lunch and dinner and offers vegetarian and traditional dishes at fair prices.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- eat
Lijiang Gulou Restaurant
Serves Naxi and Sichuan food. The best ma-po tofu.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- eat
N's Kitchen
Serves western breakfast, tasty sandwiches, monster burgers, and pizzas. Free Internet and WiFi. And they have very nice bikes for hire. You could also get lots of information on biking and hiking here. the view from the balcony is nice and you can chill out a while.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- eat
Nordic Delight
A bakery and café with very good cheese cake and coffee. Seems closed.
Recorded price: ¥25 for a slice of Oreo cheesecake
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- eat
Prague Café
The food is good and fairly reasonably priced (given the touristy area it is in) and it has a friendly atmosphere, but the drinks are expensive. Especially green tea at ¥15/cup.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- eat
Qiuyuege Restaurant
Serves Naxi foods. Free live music and free Internet and WiFi.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- see
Baisha Ancient Town
Baisha Town was once Lijiang's political, economic and cultural center. It is the original settlement of the Naxi people who came to the greater Lijiang Valley over a thousand years ago. Made up of at least 12 smaller villages, the main village is Sanyuan (三元村), which has one main stone street called of course, Baisha Street. Have a drink some Yunnan coffee eat a Naxi Pie. Good for a half day visit. A quiet town which makes a nice break from the packed Lijiang Old Town. People are more friendly, stores are seldom throwing ridiculous tourist price. You will see elderly peddlers, some in their traditional Naxi outfit, selling honey, fruits, nuts and other stuff. Support these elders by buying their goods, since they offer fair price even though don't have many visitors. You should consider staying a few nights, in a Naxi family’s courtyard, no hotels or hostels here. Even though almost everything costs you a ticket price to do in China these days you can do many things here for free. Visit some of the temples or traditional Naxi houses of the area before they are gone.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
Before you go
Bargaining
Unlike other parts of China, Lijiang has fewer cases of inflated 'Westerner' prices. Mini-van and taxi prices vary wildly based on Chinese language ability and appearance.
Culture
Lijiang is the Naxi cultural center with unique hieroglyphic writing (Dongba), traditional music, and embroidery. The Mu family ruled for 500 years; their palace is a major attraction.
Money
Chinese Yuan (¥) is the local currency. ATMs are available near the old town. Supermarkets Dragon Life (near South Gate) and Good Mood (near North entrance of Black Dragon Pool) offer fair prices unlike tourist shops.
Packing
Warm clothing is expensive in the Old Town. Buy hats, mitts, and long johns cheaply on the road outside town by the waterwheel (turn left at first intersection).
Safety
Small streets in old town are not safe at night—avoid walking alone. Cobblestones are slippery when wet and canals lack handrails. Altitude sickness risk at high elevations.
Transport
Taxis cannot enter the old town gates. Be prepared to carry luggage or arrange hotel pickup with a cart. Mini-vans to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (¥20) depart from Hongtaiyang square near Mao statue.
Weather
Winter nights are chilly; verify accommodation has heating or heated mattress pads. Visit old town early morning to avoid crowds.