Khidistavi

Khidistavi is a small village in the Guria region of southwestern Georgia, situated 9 km southwest of Chokhatauri and 23 km east of regional capital Ozurgeti. The village is renowned for its numerous swimming spots in mountain rivers along the Gubaseuli river in the foothills of the Lesser Caucasus. It serves as the access point to Nabeglavi and Bakhmaro mountain resorts, making it ideal for nature-loving backpackers seeking outdoor activities away from tourist crowds.

Khidistavi was founded around the 1870s and takes its name from the local bridge (Khidistavi) over the Gubaseuli river, meaning 'bridgehead.' The original wooden bridge was repeatedly washed away by floods, leaving only the bridgeheads. In the mid-20th century, it was replaced by a concrete bridge named after poet and writer Nodar Dumbadze. The surrounding villages depend primarily on agriculture, and during Soviet times these areas served as popular summer resorts and pioneer camps. The village comes alive in summer with returning expatriates but becomes nearly deserted in winter.

Khidistavi has a subtropical climate with mild, wet winters and warm, humid summers. The area experiences rain when clouds blown west over the Black Sea are caught by the Lesser Caucasus mountains, often resulting in brief summer thunderstorms with heavy rain. This mountainous microclimate creates the lush river valleys that attract visitors.

Georgian is the local language. Gurians are known to speak more quickly than average Georgians from other regions, making comprehension more challenging. Younger people are more likely to know some English and are the best choice when seeking help.

The village center is walkable on foot. For exploring the surrounding area, a car or mountain bike is recommended, with an SUV advisable for side streets and rougher terrain. Auto-stop (hitchhiking) is also a common and effective way to get around the area.

The Nodar Dumbadze-Bridge, a narrow concrete bridge from the 1950s spanning the Gubaseuli river, leads to the main square shaded by a tall maple tree forming a tunnel-like canopy. The main square features a monument with splendid mosaics, one of the finest in Georgia. Also see the Former Town Hall, a constructivist functional building from the 1970s now vacant, and the Urban Park with a statue. The home of author Ana Kalandadze stands in the center, and an old watermill (1924-2008) with preserved technical details including a water wheel can be viewed, though it is not accessible inside.

The primary activities center on the river: swimming at natural spots, cliff jumping, and sunbathing on river rocks. Tchuriistskali (Churiistskali) is a 20-minute walk from center with a natural hot tub and waterfall, popular with young people in summer. Large stones (Didi Kvebi) in the middle of Gubaseuli river are a 20-minute walk away for sunbathing. Schotaia offers a small sandy beach. Lake of Luba is about an hour's walk away with cliff jumping and a sandy beach. Dzhikoia is on a gravel island beneath the Nodar Dumbadze-Bridge. Satavani is where the Lubas Lake river meets Gubaseuli, good for jumping from a weir. Sashvalo requires passing through private property to reach a small natural lake with sandy beach. Hiking trails lead through woods toward Bakhmaro. CAUTION: Swimming spots are unsupervised with no infrastructure; watch for sharp rocks beneath the water surface, avoid jumping into unknown waters, and only swim if experienced.

Local honey is a specialty available from families in the village. The Berdnidse family sells homemade honey (15 Lari/kg) and honey vodka (12 Lari/L), located about 3 km east of the Bakhmaro road, past the first houses with a hand-painted 'Tapli' (honey) sign. The Gudavadze family also sells homemade honey at 15 Lari/kg. At the bus stop in the town center, three mini markets sell essentials, with mobile phone charging machines available. Fresh fruit and vegetables are sold during daytime. Open-air markets are in Nabeglavi during summer. For better shopping, ATMs, and money changers, visit Chokhatauri or Ozurgeti.

There is no restaurant in Khidistavi; dining requires visiting Chokhatauri or Ozurgeti. However, friendly locals may invite visitors to try homemade products including house wine, home-distilled spirits, cheese, and honey. Accepting such invitations is encouraged for an authentic experience.

Crime is minimal in Khidistavi with regular police patrols. Cannabis grows wild in gardens and forests; visitors may be invited to try it but should decline as drug possession carries draconian punishments in Georgia.

From Khidistavi, Ozurgeti (23 km west) is the regional capital with better shopping, restaurants, and museums. Chokhatauri (9 km northeast) is the district center with more services. Nabeglavi and Bakhmaro are accessible via the same road, with Bakhmaro being a mountain resort destination reachable by hiking trail from Khidistavi.