Kabul

Kabul has been Afghanistan's capital since the late 18th century, offering a mix of historical sites and resilient urban energy. Despite war damage, especially in western areas, the city has seen some modernization with tower blocks and shopping malls pre-2021. The city lies in a valley at 1,800 m (5,900 ft) elevation, giving it distinct seasonal character. Most visitors are expats, aid workers, or adventurous travelers passing through.

Summers (Jun-Sep) are hot and dry, ranging from high 20s to mid-30s °C (80-95 °F) with virtually no rain. Autumn (Oct-Nov) brings temperate weather with little precipitation. Winters (Dec-Mar) are cold with the most rainfall, mostly snow and ice; January averages 4/-7 °C (39/19 °F). Spring (late Mar-early June) is temperate with rain tapering by May. The Salang Pass highway north often closes in winter due to heavy snowfall. Main highways are cleared less reliably under Taliban administration.

Kabul International Airport sits 5 km east of the city center, with separate terminals for international and domestic flights. It serves as the hub for Ariana Afghan Airlines and Kam Air. Airport facilities include restaurants, post office, and car parking, though all are described as very basic. Many international flights have been severely limited since August 2021.

Maps are available from Afghanistan Information Management Services (aims.org.af) who can print custom wall maps of the city. The city is divided into areas like Wazir Akbar Khan and Shar-i-Naw (new city) which are relatively safer. Outlying areas have poor road conditions. Walking with a map visible is discouraged as it marks foreigners. After dark, avoid walking outside the new city area where motorcyclists may rob travelers.

Kabul offers diverse dining, crudely divided into local spots and expat-oriented restaurants. UN-approved restaurants are particularly expensive. Vendors line almost every street. Traditional dishes include kebabs and bolani (stuffed flatbread). Prices at local spots like Turkmen restaurant near Shahr-e-Naw offer kebab and drink for 360 Afs. Expat-oriented areas in Wazir Akbar Khan and Shahr-e-Naw feature international cuisines including Indian, Turkish, Italian, Korean, and Chinese. Restaurants open and close frequently—verify operations before visiting.

Kabul is not cheap for accommodation, mainly due to generator costs and security expenses. Hotels in Wazir Akbar Khan and Shar-i-Naw are popular, often in large Pakistani-style mansions. Budget options like Shahr Guest House offer singles from US$10, doubles from US$20. Mid-range UNICA Guest House costs US$45-50 per night with gardens and pool. High-end options include Golden Star Hotel from US$45 and Safi Landmark Hotel from US$80. Always examine security arrangements carefully—some hotels have been attacked.

Key sights include Bagh-e Babur (AFN350 foreigners) with its Mughal gardens and museum; the National Museum of Afghanistan (AFN100 entrance, AFN200 with camera) displaying Buddhist and Islamic artifacts; and the National Gallery (AFN250) in a restored Kabul house with Afghan and European paintings. Walking the old city wall from Babur Gardens to Bala Hissar offers city views—ask staff for directions and security advice. Golf at Kabul Golf Club costs AFN750 (US$15) for 9 or 18 holes. Swimming is available at Serena (US$30), UNICA club (US$5), or Internationals (US$7).

The security situation has deteriorated under Taliban control since August 2021. Risks include bombings, kidnappings, and targeted attacks especially for foreigners. Exercise extreme vigilance: avoid travel after dark, minimize time in hotel lobbies, vary routes and schedules. Protests and riots can escalate quickly with lethal force—avoid entirely. Female visitors must wear full-body covering (burqa or chador) that conceals face and body from airport arrival to departure. Begging children are common; giving money can attract crowds and lead to pickpocketing. Don't walk near mountains by the city wall—locals report robbery and shooting risks. In the old city after dark, motorcyclists attack solo travelers. Always travel with a local guide when possible.

English-language broadcast media is limited. BBC World Service is available on 101.6 MHz. Tolo TV is popular locally. The Scene magazine (afghanscene.com) provides restaurant reviews and useful information, though street sellers may charge. FM radio stations exist but English content is rare. Internet access is inconsistent, often requiring hotel WiFi or SIM cards.

Istalif in the Shamali Plain side valley makes an excellent overnight or day trip. The north offers Qargha Reservoir (9 km west) with swimming and boating. The Panjshir Valley features Soviet-era tank ruins and picturesque mountain scenery—arrange through local agencies. Daily buses to Mazar-e Sharif (12 hours, 750 Afs) continue to Balkh and Uzbekistan. Shared taxis to Pakistan's Torkham border cost US$15, then Rs 2000 to Peshawar. Weekend flights go to Dubai, Dushanbe, or Delhi.

Most expats take any opportunity to leave Kabul. Nearby destinations include Istalif in the Shamali Plain, Qargha Reservoir to the west, and Panjshir Valley to the north. Long-distance options include daily buses to Mazar-e Sharif (750 Afs, 12 hours via Salang Pass) where you can visit Balkh or cross to Uzbekistan. Shared taxis reach Pakistan (Torkham border US$15, then Rs 2000 to Peshawar). International flights connect to Dubai, Dushanbe, and Delhi.