Ilha Grande

Ilha Grande is a breathtaking Brazilian island about 150 km from Rio de Janeiro and 450 km from São Paulo, forming a mixed World Heritage Site together with Paraty. The island boasts over 100 beaches, lush Atlantic rainforest, and crystal-clear waters ideal for snorkeling and diving. There are no roads or private cars on the island, preserving a peaceful, car-free atmosphere. The main settlement, Vila do Abraão, serves as the gateway with restaurants, shops, and tour agencies.

Ilha Grande must be reached by boat from Angra dos Reis or Mangaratiba on the mainland. Ferries run by CCR Barcas depart from Angra dos Reis, Mangaratiba, and Conceição de Jacareí (though ferry service from Conceição was not operating as of December 2020). Avoid illegal vessels in Conceição de Jacareí—they are extremely dangerous and uncomfortable. There are no scheduled ferries from that location, so stick to the official services. Ferry boats connect to Praia do Pouso, Angra dos Reis, and Mangaratiba.

There are no roads and no private cars on the island—transport is entirely by foot or boat. A good strategy is to use Vila do Abraão as a base and plan day trips from there. Several hiking trails (trilhas) lead to the many beaches; Papagaio Peak is a popular 2-3 hour hike with marked trails and panoramic views. Many beaches can be reached by schooner; agencies in Vila do Abraão sell day packages. It is possible to walk around the entire island in about 4-5 days, starting at Abraão and going anticlockwise through Dois Rios. Note that accommodation on the back side is scarce and free camping is illegal.

Night falls early and dawn is short near the equator, so carry a flashlight if you plan to return after 18:00. The tropical climate means heat and humidity year-round, with hiking being strenuous during hot periods—bring plenty of water. Some boats operate sunset tours and evening pickups from beaches. Peak season is December through March when Brazilian tourists flock to the island.

Vila do Abraão is the main hub with the widest range of accommodation, from budget hostels and campsites to mid-range pousadas. Along Rua Getúlio Vargas and Rua da Praia, you'll find most hostels and pousadas. Beachfront pousadas like Pousada Beira Mar (10m from the pier) offer hammock views of the harbor. Budget camping options include Alfa Camping (Estr. Dois Rios) with tent pitches and huts, and Camping do Lúcio (R$40 per couple). Mid-range options like Pousada Alfa (R$185-285), Estalagem Costa Verde (R$220), and Pousada Olhos d'Água offer clean rooms with breakfast. For a splurge, Pousada dos Meros starts at R$1,155.

Seafood is the specialty on Ilha Grande—many restaurants offer casseroles with several types of seafood, served as dishes for two. Frutos do Mar on Rua da Praia is recommended for traditional Brazilian cuisine; their Brazilian fish stew is a standout. For budget eating, try Food for Kilo restaurants where you pay about R$0.80 per 100g. Pastel de Frango at Crena Beach is a local favorite. There are about 30 restaurants on the island, ranging from cheap hamburgers to pricier seafood spots. At night, drinking happens in the main square with live bossa nova, forró, and samba. Café Do Mar (R. Getúlio Vargas 50) serves cold beer, caipirinhas, and has BBQ nights.

Popular activities include snorkeling, kayaking, sailing, and diving at Sitio Forte. Hiking to Papagaio Peak takes 2-3 hours with marked trails and beautiful summit views—bring lots of water. There are thirteen other well-marked trails throughout the island. Boat trips to various beaches are easily arranged in Vila do Abraão. Visit the Church of São Sebastião (Igreja de São Sebastião) in Vila do Abraão for its wood-paneled ceiling and bell tower. The Ecomuseu Ilha Grande in Vila Dois Rios documents the island's history as a penal colony. At Parnaioca Beach, remnants of the slave period and Lazareto Hospital tell the dark history of jail prisoners, slaves, pirates, and lepers.

There are no banks on the island—bring sufficient cash because many hotels, shops, and restaurants do not accept credit cards. You can stop at an ATM in Angra dos Reis before heading to the island. Avoid illegal vessels departing from Conceição de Jacareí—they are extremely dangerous and uncomfortable. When hiking, carry a flashlight if returning after 18:00 due to early nightfall near the equator.

Mobile phone signal is available in only a few places on the island. Public phones can be found everywhere. For internet, Camping Raio de Sol near the end of R. Amâncio Felicio de Souza offers some WiFi. Otherwise, connectivity is limited—plan accordingly and enjoy the digital detox.

Daily budget for a backpacker on Ilha Grande: camping or hostel dorms R$40-80, meals at kilo restaurants R$20-40, boat trips to beaches R$30-100, ferry to mainland R$20-40. Budget travelers should bring cash from Angra dos Reis since there are no ATMs. Intercity bus to Rio costs R$57 (December 2021).

From Vila do Abraão, day trips by boat or hiking can reach dozens of beaches. Popular beach destinations include Praia do Pouso, Parnaioca (one of the most beautiful spots on the island), Dois Rios, and Aventureiro. Schooner day packages are sold by numerous agencies in Vila do Abraão. For hiking, Papagaio Peak offers a 2-3 hour round trip. At Parnaioca, you can stay in local houses and ask for Sr. João for accommodation (only about 8 residents).

From Angra dos Reis, there is a ferry daily at 10:00 to the mainland. The intercity bus to Rio departs from the central bus station at 12:00 (R$57, December 2021) with another departure at 15:00. Blablacar rides to Rio cost around R$35 (December 2021). Agencies like Fast Connection Island Travel offer express speedboat connections to Rio hotels, though claims of under 2 hours should not be relied upon—bad weather may result in a 6+ hour journey via regular ferry.