Herceg Novi

Herceg Novi (meaning "New Castle") is probably the most pleasant city in Montenegro and warrants several days' visit. While not as spectacular as Kotor, it has similar architecture without the capital's tourist crowds and high prices. The city has managed to keep the traditional slow Montenegrin lifestyle, with locals very welcoming and no annoying street vendors. A property boom has brought new construction in the hills, while Bosnian refugee camps from the war years have been converted into permanent settlements.

Bus is the only transport option into Herceg Novi. Flixbus operates several daily services from Dubrovnik main bus station for €11 (2017), taking about 90 minutes including border formalities. Regular buses also connect to Kotor, Budva, Bar, Podgorica, and some continue to Beograd. Two buses daily go to Trebinje in Bosnia, under an hour away. An alternative is hiring a Croat cab from Dubrovnik airport (Cilipi) for about €50, taking 40 minutes including border crossings. There is no rail or ferry access.

The historic town (stari grad) can be traversed on foot in under 10 minutes. Blue Line runs regular public transport buses between Igalo and Kamenari, with seasonal timetables. The nicest way is walking the seafront promenade where the railway used to run, scaling stairs where needed. A 7-km-long pedestrian promenade runs along the waterfront with over 100 souvenir shops and restaurants, from near Lazure Beach to just south of Igalo.

Herceg Novi is hot in summer and usually stays warm late into evenings. Beaches are quite crowded during high season. The city hosts a Film Festival with films screened in the Kanli Kula fortress, and the Sunčane Skale music festival. For fewer crowds and milder weather, consider visiting in shoulder season.

Accommodation is plentiful—look for signs saying 'soba'. You should be able to get a room for €10 per person during summer months. Options include Hotel Vila Margot, Apartments Villa Kukoljac, Lazure Hotel and Marina, and Tomanovic Guest House.

Small eateries around the promenade serve fresh local food, grilled seafood and meat dishes, and international cuisine for approximately €10-12 per main dish. Italian-style pizza is well-made at most cafes. The Petica in Old Town centre offers pasta/pizza for €4-7. Tri Lipe restaurant next to Forte Mare has an open-air terrace under old lindens. Local beer from Nikšić is good, and spritzer (white wine with carbonated mineral water) is refreshing. Iced coffee served in tall glasses with ice cream and 'slag' (fatty whipped cream) qualifies as a full meal.

Swimming is popular at pebble and concrete beaches, with a 5-km beach path. At Igalo (western end of promenade), mud therapy uses the region's healing muddy, mildly radioactive sand for rheumatic complaints and skin disorders. Boat trips visit the famous Blue Cave (Plava špilja), Mamula Island, and Žanjic beach. Hiking ancient stone paths into the hills offers 5-6.5-km walks through rural communities. Scuba diving operators offer dives to sunken ships, caves, and Yugoslav submarine tunnels. About a hundred small cafes along the promenade and in the old town are perfect for people-watching.

Herceg Novi is generally a safe destination. The city has not experienced issues with street vendors or aggressive tourism. Standard urban precautions apply in tourist areas. The submarine pens can be explored via hiking trail but exercise caution on uneven terrain.

WiFi is available at most cafes and restaurants along the promenade. Mobile coverage is good throughout the city and along the coast. For SIM cards, local providers offer prepaid options.

Daily backpacker budget in Herceg Novi: accommodation from €10/night, meals €10-15/day, local transport minimal (walkable old town), attraction entrance €4 per site. Budget approximately €30-40 per day for a basic backpacker experience.

Half-day or full-day boat excursions along Kotor Bay visit destinations like Kotor, Perast, and Mamula Island. Ostrog monastery is another popular excursion. Half-day trips to Cavtat in Croatia are possible by bus via Dubrovnik direction.

By bus: regular services to Kotor ( UNESCO-listed old town), Budva (beaches and nightlife), Bar (port city), and Podgorica (capital). Flixbus connections to Dubrovnik in Croatia. By boat: excursions to Kotor, Perast, and Mamula Island Fortress (now a hotel). Cavtat in Croatia is accessible by heading west.