Fortaleza

Fortaleza is a major city on Brazil's northeast coast, capital of Ceará. It is one of the largest cities in Brazil and one of the most vibrant, popular as a domestic package tour destination and increasingly for Europeans. Despite being a party town, its carnival is rather feeble but growing.

Pinto Martins International Airport (IATA: FOR) is 7 km from downtown in the Serrinha district. The main bus station Rodoviária João Tomé has buses to most of the country, with Expresso Guanabara having the most extensive network. There are also secondary stations: Rodoviária Antônio Bezerra for western Ceará (Jeri, Sobral) and Rodoviária de Messejana for southern/eastern Ceará. Buses within the state often leave from the train station in the centre.

Buses and taxis are available. Bus 099 Siqueira-Mucuripe/Barão de Studart serves the area. A cab to outskirts costs up to R$30.

Fortaleza has a tropical climate with sunny weather year-round, temperatures 22-31°C. Rainy season is February-May. The driest months July-December have stronger winds, best for windsurfers. January is peak holiday season; carnival is in February/March but not as lively as elsewhere.

Most hotels are in Praia Iracema, Meireles, and Mucuripe, parallel to Avenida Beira Mar. Praia Iracema has most budget options. Reservations essential in January; bargaining possible Sep-Nov and Mar-May. Price ranges: under R$50 budget, R$50-150 mid-range, over R$150 splurge.

Fresh seafood is abundant; try shrimp from the fish market (R$15/kg) and have it fried at nearby shacks (R$3). Thursday is crab day at Praia do Futuro. For churrascaria, Churrascaria Gheller offers all-you-can-eat for R$20. Varjota neighbourhood has the best restaurant concentration. Nightlife centres on forró; Pirata Bar on Mondays is popular (R$35 entry). A chilled coconut from Beira Mar costs from R$2.

Colonial architecture is being restored; walk from Praia de Iracema via Dragão do Mar to Praça do Ferreira. See the sunset from Ponte Metálica. Theatro José de Alencar (R$4) is a landmark. Beach Park, 13 km southeast, is South America's biggest water park. Surfing lessons from Chandler Surf (R$17-35/hr). Forró dancing at Dragão do Mar.

Fortaleza is one of Brazil's most dangerous cities; avoid showing valuables. The tourist zone around Beira Mar is relatively safe. Beware of prostitute robberies and drug scams. Praia do Futuro bordered by slum Serviluz; avoid walking there at night. Never carry drugs.

Area code 85. Internet cafes charge R$3-4 per hour in tourist areas, down to R$1 inland. Free Wi-Fi at Pão de Açúcar supermarket on Av. Abolição. Post offices along Beira Mar.

A budget traveller can find dorms from R$25, meals at R$20, transport around R$3-4 per ride. Daily budget could be around R$80-120.

Maranguape: Cachaça Museum at Ypióca. Redenção: Museu Senzala Negro Liberato. Guaramiranga: Jazz and Blues Festival weekend after carnival. Canoa Quebrada: accessible by van from main bus station.

Go next to Maranguape, Redenção, Guaramiranga, or further west to Jericoacoara (Jeri) via Rodoviária Antônio Bezerra.