Curitiba

Curitiba, capital of Paraná, is worth a stop of one or two days when traveling between Rio de Janeiro or São Paulo and Iguaçu Falls. It features a well-preserved old city (cidade velha) with a huge arts and crafts fair every Sunday, and is known worldwide for its innovative Bus Rapid Transit (BRT) system. The city's population is largely descended from German, Ukrainian, Russian, Italian and Polish immigrants.

The city is served by Aeroporto Afonso Pena (CWB) in nearby São José dos Pinhais, with flights to major Brazilian cities and destinations like Buenos Aires. From the airport to downtown, the cheapest option is the 'aeroporto' city bus (R$2.60) from the tube station at the airport entrance. The Airport Shuttle minibus costs R$8, and a taxi about R$50. Long-distance buses arrive at the Main Bus Terminal (Rodoviária).

Curitiba's public bus system (Rede Integrada de Transporte) is efficient and cheap. The fare is R$6.00 on Sundays, with free transfers at tube stations and bus depots. A City Center Circulator costs only R$1.50. The Touristic Route covers 20 attractions for R$27, allowing visits to 4 of them. Driving is difficult due to one-way streets and bus lanes.

Curitiba has a subtropical highland climate with mild summers (Dec-Mar) and cold winters (Jun-Sep) that can reach freezing at night. Rain is plentiful year-round, with no dry season; the wettest months are October to March. Snow is very rare (last in 2013). The city can have grey, drizzly periods similar to London.

Curitiba has a good variety of restaurants, from modest to upscale. For budget eats, try Montesquieu Bar for huge sandwiches (around R$5.50) or Spich Restaurant for a simple daily meal (R$5.50). Santa Felicidade neighborhood is the culinary district with Italian restaurants and wine. The craft beer scene is strong; try Bodebrown (Cacau IPA) or Gauden Bier.

Key attractions include the Botanical Garden (free), Ópera de Arame (R$15), Oscar Niemeyer Museum, and the historic Largo da Ordem area. Many parks like Barigüi Park and Tanguá Park offer green spaces. The Sunday Feira do Largo da Ordem is a large crafts fair. The Serra Verde Express train to Morretes (4 hours, one-way from R$199) is a highlight.

Curitiba has a relatively low crime rate compared to similar-sized Brazilian cities, but crime is rising. Avoid walking in empty streets, especially around the Historical Center and Main Bus Terminal at night. The poorest southern neighborhoods (Sitio Cercado, Cidade Industrial) are most dangerous. Use taxis after dark. Common-sense precautions advised.

Foreigners interested in learning Portuguese can take affordable courses at Celin, maintained by the Federal University of Paraná.

A daily backpacker budget might include: bus fare R$6 (Sunday) or R$1.50 circulator; cheap meals R$5.50 each; tourist attractions like Ópera de Arame R$15; and the Serra Verde Express from R$199. The city offers free attractions like the Botanical Garden and many parks.

The Serra Verde Express train to Morretes is a popular day trip (4 hours each way, from R$199). From Morretes, you can continue to Paranaguá. Other nearby destinations include Marumbi and Campina Grande do Sul (Pico Paraná, the highest point in South Brazil).

Onward destinations include Marumbi, Morretes, and Paranaguá. The BR-116 highway connects south to Mafra and north to São Paulo.