Carriacou

Carriacou is a quiet Caribbean island of about 12 miles by 3 miles with a 2022 population of 6081. It's the second-largest island of Grenada and draws visitors primarily for scuba diving and snorkelling on its coral reefs. The pace is slow and relaxing, with a small-town feel centred on Hillsborough, the main settlement. Unlike busier Caribbean destinations, Carriacou offers uncrowded beaches and a local culture that hasn't been over-run by tourism.

The main arrival point is Lauriston Airport (CRU) on the east side, with flights from St. George's on Grenada. Ferries also run between Carriacou and Grenada, arriving at Tyrell Bay / Argyle on the southwest coast. A new marina has made Tyrell Bay the primary port of arrival again, replacing Hillsborough which was the main town during 20th-century era. Direct flights to Saint Vincent are also possible for onward travel.

Hillsborough can be walked in half an hour, even from the airport. Minibuses run Monday to Saturday 7AM-5PM from Hillsborough to all settlements with a flat fare of EC$ 3.50. Route #10 goes southwest to Lauriston, L'Esterre, Tyrell Bay and Harvey Vale; #11 northeast to Windward and Dover; #12 east to Belair and Grand Bay. Car rental is available from Wayne's (+1 473 443 6120) and R/C Auto Rental (+1 473 404 0293). Taxis wait by the ferry pier with official rates posted nearby; to Lauriston Airport costs EC$ 20.

December to April is the best time to visit, as those months are somewhat cooler and drier. Carriacou is clear of the main hurricane belt but has still been damaged in 1944, 1955, 2004, 2005 and 2024. Key events include Carnival or Mardi Gras just before Lent with parades featuring oily jab-jabbers and Shakespeare recitation matches; the Carriacou Maroon & String Band Festival in April; the Carriacou Regatta on the first weekend in August with locally-built boat races; and Parang on the weekend before Christmas celebrating traditional music with roots in Venezuelan promenading musicians.

Accommodation options in Hillsborough include Hotel Laurena on Middle St (B&B double EC$ 100), Mermaid Hotel on Main St waterfront, Ade's Dream Guest House on Main St (B&B double EC$ 200) and Green Roof Inn at Seaview (double room EC$ 250). On the hill overlooking town is Carriacou Grand View Hotel at Beausejour with pool (B&B double EC$ 200). Self-catering options include Seaclusion Suites on Andes Ave in Argyle west of the airport, Belair Garden Cottage in Belair with mountain views, and Bayaleau Point Cottages in Dover near Windward.

Hillsborough restaurants include La Playa, Ocean Sunset, Snagg's and Ann's. Tyrell Bay and Argyle have Big Citi Grill, D'Empress, Tanty Mavis, Frogs, Lambi Queen, Crazy Beach Corner, Original Slipway (Tu-Sa 11:30AM-2:30PM, 5-9PM, Su 11:30AM-2:30PM) and Las Iguanas. For drinking, Hillsborough has Wayne's and Excelcia's Butterfly Bar; Tyrell Bay has Swampy Jo and Sundowners. There are no distilleries on Carriacou but rum is widely available. Hillsborough has a bank with ATM and stores include Patty's Deli (M-Sa 8AM-4:30PM) and Family Store (M-Sa 8AM-4PM); Argyle has Alexis Food Stores (M-Th 7AM-10PM, F-Sa 7AM-11PM).

Scuba diving and snorkelling are the main activities with dive operators Deefer Diving in Hillsborough, Dive Carriacou and Lumba Take a look Tyrell Bay. Sandy Island off the south coast has beaches for picnics. Paradise Beach at L'Esterre near the airport has white sand and calm water sheltered by the barrier reef. High North Peak at 291 m is the highest point with poorly marked trails through dense woodland; a guide is advisable and you might see iguanas, land tortoises, soldier crabs, hummingbirds and macaws. Anse La Roche Bay on the northwest corner has a good beach, snorkelling and plantation ruins. Petite Carenage Beach near Windward has shell sand and night turtle-nesting tours in season. The Windmill Tower on Belair Road is an 8 m tower of an 18th/19th century sugar cane mill.

Sun protection is essential, care with valuables is advisable, and water safety should be a priority. The Carriacou hospital is small and any serious medical issue would require transfer to St. George's on Grenada or possibly airlift to the US mainland, making adequate health insurance essential.

As of January 2023, Carriacou has 4G coverage from Flow and Digicel. 5G has not yet rolled out in Grenada.

The ferry or plane will take you back to St. George's on Grenada. Petite Martinique is a short ferry ride away and remains little developed. Direct flights go to Saint Vincent to the north.