Campeche

Campeche is the capital and largest city in the state of Campeche, Mexico, with a population around 250,000. Historically the second city of the Yucatán Peninsula after Mérida, it is a port city on the Gulf of Mexico with a relaxed atmosphere and a charming colonial old town designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Campeche is one of only two cities in North America (the other being Quebec City) to have its city walls still intact.

Campeche International Airport (Alberto Acuña Ongay International Airport) is a small airport with limited flights, served by Aeromexico to Mexico City and United to Houston. The ADO bus terminal serves ADO and Sur buses, but is small and often understaffed with long lines; a restroom costs 7 pesos. The San Francisco de Campeche railway station on the Tren Maya line has full service with ticketing, baggage check, and food services.

Because Campeche is still a small city, the historic center is easy to navigate on foot, though oppressive heat and humidity may make this difficult. Taxi fares are charged by zone; from the ADO bus station to downtown costs about M$30. Public buses are cheap at M$6 but are small, hot, cramped, and often in disrepair; drivers will make change but may not accept large bills.

The city is hot and humid most of the year. The best time to visit is during the cooler, drier months from November to February. The baseball season runs April to September, offering an evening activity at the Estadio Nelson Barrera Romellón.

Hotels on the Malecon (Av. Adolfo Ruiz Cortines) are relatively expensive but clean and comfortable. Hotels in the historic center, especially near the central square, are much cheaper. Examples include Baluartes Hotel (from M$461), Hotel Plaza Campeche (from M$1103), and Hotel Castelmar (from M$702). Accommodation can be hard to find due to small tourist industry.

Campeche is well known for its seafood, especially shrimp (camarón) and shark (cazón). The only North American chains are Burger King and Church's Chicken. Calle 59 is partly pedestrian between c. 10 & 12 with bar/restaurants with outdoor tables. At the northern end of the malecon are several coctelerias serving fresh seafood for lunch, with competition leading to free drinks and rides. Casa vieja del Rio has the best views over the central plaza and church.

Key sights include the Baluarte de Santiago (with botanical garden), Puerta del Tierra (with light and sound show), Museum of Mayan Archaeology at Fort San Miguel (M$70, Tu-Su 08:00-17:00), and the Poesia del Mar fountain on the Malecon (20:00-21:00). For sports, Estadio Nelson Barrera Romellón is home to the Piratas de Campeche baseball team (April-September).

Tourist shops in the historic center have relatively high prices. The central market is small and does not offer many handicrafts. Outside the market, vendors sell hammocks, a Yucatan specialty. For everyday needs, Chedraui on Avenida Gobernadores is the biggest and cheapest store, with banks nearby. Knickknacks and handicrafts are hard to come by.

Nearby Maya ruins include Edzna (closest major site, 45 minutes to an hour away), and further sites like Becan, Calakmul, and others near Escárcega. These are less touristy and less crowded than Yucatán ruins. Other destinations: Champotón, Ciudad del Carmen, Mérida in Yucatán, and Quintana Roo.

A budget traveler can stay in historic center hotels from around M$461 (Baluartes Hotel). Local bus fare is M$6, taxi from bus station to downtown about M$30. Meal costs vary; street food and local restaurants offer affordable options. Daily backpacker budget might be around M$500-800 including lodging, food, and transport.