Berat

Berat is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Albania's most beautiful cities, known as the 'city of a thousand windows' for its well-preserved Ottoman houses with many windows. It offers a rare glimpse into a traditional Ottoman city with Byzantine churches and Ottoman mosques, all set against the backdrop of Mount Tomorr and the River Osum.

Berat is well-connected by bus to major Albanian cities. The Berat Bus Station on Rruga Antipatrea has services to Tirana, Gjirokastër, Sarandë, Fier, and Përmet. A local bus from the station to the centre costs 40 lek (October 2022), or you can walk 45 minutes south. Distances: 70 km from Tirana, 71 km from Gjirokastër, 70 km from Korçë.

The old centre of Berat is compact and walkable, with a significant climb up to the Kala (castle) area. Taking a walk on the footpaths of the old town is a must, featuring tight paths, flower decorations, and local hospitality.

Top sights include the Castle (Kalaja), built mostly in the 13th century with origins in the 4th century BC; the Onufri Museum inside the Church of the Dormition of St Mary, displaying 16th-century religious paintings; and the Berat Ethnographic Museum in an 18th-century Ottoman house. Explore the Mangalem (traditionally Muslim) and Gorica (traditionally Christian) old town areas, numerous Byzantine churches, Ottoman mosques like the Bachelors' Mosque, and the Lead Mosque. Further afield, visit Tomorri Mountain National Park (20 km east), Bogova Waterfall (30 km south), and Osumi River Canyon (58 km south).

Take a walk on the peculiar footpaths of the Old Town, enjoy a horse ride at Gorica Hill, stroll along the main promenade at sunset, and go rafting through the gorges around Berat and Përmet.

Traditional souvenirs include stone carving, wood chipping, and textile products. Women in the Kala area make lace products that are sold extensively. There is also a shoe store named Butiku Antipantrea in the centre.

Local dishes to try include rice with turkey (pilaf me kaposh deti), Mont Blanc pastry, and the delicious figs and olives of the area. There are restaurants in the Kala area serving Albanian cuisine, such as Ajka Restaurant (across the Osum) and Wildor Restaurant (main courses ~500 lek). For drinks, try traditional raki made from walnuts (raki me arra) and rose juice; visit Alpeta Winery (12 km east) or Çobo Winery in Dimal.

Accommodation is mainly in private rooms (B&Bs) and hotels. Budget options include Berat Backpackers (dorm from 950 lek), Lorenc Guesthouse & Hostel (€12), and Hanna's Hostel (€12, breakfast included). Mid-range: Hotel Omer (doubles €32 with breakfast), Hotel and Restaurant Mangalemi (double from €35).

From Berat, buses serve Tirana, Gjirokastër, Sarandë (via Gjirokastër, 6 hr, 1,000 lek), Fier (via Lushnjë, as the direct road is bad), and Përmet (once daily at 07:15). Also consider Dibra by bus or car.