Bacalar

Bacalar is a lakeside community in Quintana Roo anchored by the stunningly azure Lake Bacalar, often called the Lagoon of Seven Colors. This area has a Yucatan small-village feel and is notably absent of busloads of tourists, offering a slower pace than nearby Tulum or Playa del Carmen. The main attraction is the lake, whose gemlike blue beauty could induce hours of relaxation without regret.

The ADO bus station serves Bacalar with regional connections. For those arriving by rail, the Estacion Bacalar - Tren Maya on Av. Tajma Ha provides modern railroad access through the Yucatan peninsula, with convenient connections to Cancun and Tulum airports and stations at major cities and archaeological sites. Taxis are available for local transport upon arrival.

Getting around Bacalar is very doable on foot or bicycle if staying in the town center. Taxis are available and are not expensive. The town is compact enough that most attractions are within walking distance, while the western coast of the lake with its hotels can be reached by short taxi rides.

The best time to visit Bacalar is during the dry season from November to April. Be aware that Lake Bacalar is closed for activities on Wednesdays. Sunday nights may feature music and dancing in the city square. The lake water maintains a pleasant temperature year-round for swimming and water activities.

Many hotels line the western coast of Lake Bacalar. Budget and mid-range options include Villas Ecotucan (MXN1400) located 5 km north with cabanas and campground, Las Villas Bakalar (MXN1800) three blocks from the fort with air conditioning, and Hotel Aires Bacalar (MXN1800) with 12 suites and lagoon views. Upscale options include Our Habitas Bacalar (MXN6000) and Rancho Encantado (M$3000) with spa facilities.

Antojitos Orizaba near Park Zocalo offers excellent Yucatan/Maya meals at good prices. Los Aluxes on the costera serves excellent food with good lagoon views, open daily 13:00-21:00 (holidays 11:00-21:00). La Playita serves traditional regional Mexican cuisine on a waterfront patio at Av. 1 765, open daily 12:00-23:00. For upscale lakeside dining, Chiltepin Marisquillos (M$300) features fresh-caught seafood with outdoor tables and an infinity pool, open daily 10:00-22:30. Damajuana Mezcaleria on Av. 1 Costera offers artesan mezcals and innovative cocktails including the signature Bacalar drink, open daily 08:00-23:00.

Lake Bacalar activities center on boat tours (2 hours, five sights for M$250 as of Feb 2022) available from operators like The GAIA Experience with daily 3pm departures. Kayak rental costs M$150/M$250 for single/double per hour as of Feb 2022. Standup paddleboarding and sailboat tours are also available. For diving, Ramon Aguayo is the certified scuba instructor, available at Villas Bakalar or the Chinese house on the costera. Club Nautico Bacalar on Avenida 5 (MXN800) offers sailing tours and lessons from their north-side location. Los Rapidos on Carretera Xulha (M$250, daily 10:00-18:00) features stunning electric blue water, stromatolites, and a natural lazy river.

The water of Lake Bacalar is among the most pale and gemlike blue that could possibly exist. The Fortress de San Felipe Bacalar in the center of town represents one of the bastions used by the Maya before Spanish conquest and contains a small but modern museum. Bacalar has many cenotes including the Blue Cenote (Cenote Azul) south of the village center near the national road for M$25, and the Cenote of the Witch (Cenote de la Bruja) with dark colored water and significant depths. The lake is somewhat shallow at the shores except where sinkholes (cenotes) occur.

The sand near Lake Bacalar smells strongly of minerals or sulfur when disturbed, though no odor is noticeable while sitting by the lake or being on the water. The lake is closed for activities on Wednesdays. Los Rapidos is noted as a tourist trap with mediocre food and service, though the water is worth visiting.

ATMs in Bacalar have varying withdrawal fees. Those in the city center may frequently be out of service. Banco del Bienestar ATM near the hospital charges only M$12 (Feb 2022). ATMs at the Palacio Municipal have exorbitant fees (HSBC M$81.2, BBVA M$174 as of Dec 2023). Additional ATMs are located at Avenue 7/Calle 18 (Banco Azteca), Park Zocalo next to Palacio Municipal (Banco Azteca), inside Oxxo (Santander), and at Super Willys (Santander). For groceries, try Super Willys, La Bodega Favorita, or Dunosusa supermarkets; Dunosusa accepts credit cards.

Budget travelers can expect to spend approximately M$250-400 per day including accommodation in budget hostels (around M$300-600 for basic rooms), street food meals (M$50-100), local bus transport (M$50-150), and one activity such as a boat tour or cenote visit (M$25-250). Mid-range travelers should budget M$800-1500 daily for hotel stays, restaurant meals, and multiple activities.

Chetumal is 40 km south and offers access to the Belize border. Mahahual (Costa Maya) is 100 km east with cruise port facilities. Orange Walk in Belize is 90 km south with connections to San Ignacio or San Pedro. Tulum is 210 km north and Playa del Carmen is 270 km north for those seeking more tourist infrastructure.

From Bacalar, travelers can head east to Mahahual (100 km) for beach access, south to Chetumal (40 km) or Orange Walk Belize (90 km) for border crossings, or north to Tulum (210 km) and Playa del Carmen (270 km) for larger tourist destinations. The Tren Maya station provides regional rail connections throughout the Yucatan peninsula.