Aswan

Aswan is the southernmost city of Egypt, far more relaxed and smaller than Cairo and Luxor. It is a well-developed tourist city but hasn't grown to the extent of Luxor, so it feels more relaxed. The climate is hot desert with almost no rain, very hot in summer but pleasantly warm in winter.

Aswan is compact enough to negotiate primarily on foot. For the sights on the river islands or on the West Bank, cross by motor boat or felucca. The public ferry to Elephantine Island is LE5 for foreigners (LE1 for Egyptians). Felluca trips cost LE50-80 depending on your haggling. For Philae, the High Dam, and the unfinished obelisks, take a taxi, tuk-tuk or a horse-drawn carriage. Ride-hailing apps like Uber work but the driver will negotiate a higher price; app inDrive works well, cash only.

Rent a bike from many hotels and cross the modern bridge to the east bank. Grab a felucca captain to shuttle you across for camel rides to the Monastery of St Simeon. Have tea with local shopkeepers for insight into daily life, though they will try to sell you something. Book a cruise ship for 2-3 nights between Luxor and Aswan; prices can start at US$40 per night.

The souq offers fresh produce, spices, and Nubian handicrafts. Locals take pride in fresh sugar cane juice. Aswan is much less strict on drinking alcohol than Cairo or Luxor, and restaurants serve Stella and Saqqara lagers, both comparable to European beers. Try local fish joints near the city market for fresh fish and crab soup.

Aswan is generally a very safe city. However, watch out for pickpocketing in the souq; thieves may approach with scarves or papyrus to distract you while going into your pockets. Women should avoid travelling alone if not comfortable with leering men, though they are all bluster. Most horse carriage drivers will not commit on the price when you arrive at your destination, and you are expected to give more.

Abu Simbel is the main attraction, with entrance fee 765 EGP (Nov 2024). Many hotels offer mini-bus services departing at 4AM, costing LE150-350 (prices outdated due to hyperinflation). Private cars cost around 2,500 EGP return. There is also a public bus at 8AM arriving at 11:30AM, returning at 1PM. Kom Ombo, north of Aswan, has a double temple; taxi or organized tours are LE150. Cruises to Luxor cost from US$75 per night for a 2-night cruise including meals.

Abu Simbel – most use Aswan as a base. Kom Ombo – not far north with double temple. Cruises to Luxor – 2-night cruise from US$75/night. Felucca trips to Luxor – see the felucca cruise guide for itinerary.