Almaty

Almaty is the largest city and financial/cultural hub of Kazakhstan. It offers a mix of Soviet-era architecture, museums, parks, and easy access to the Tian Shan mountains for hiking and winter sports. The city is practical and grid-planned, with a cosmopolitan atmosphere and a rich history along the Silk Road.

Almaty International Airport (ALA) is 15 km northeast of the city centre, with flights from Istanbul, the Gulf, Frankfurt, London, and many Asian cities. The flag carrier Air Astana operates domestic routes from throughout Kazakhstan. Almaty-2 Railway Station (Ablai Khan) serves mainline trains from Astana (13 hr), Tashkent (16 hr), and others. Sayran Bus Station (Tole Bi 29) connects to Bishkek (4 hr), Urumqi (19 hr), and other cities. Most westerners can enter visa-free for up to 30 days.

The city is on a grid pattern with broad boulevards. The Almaty Metro has 11 stations running north-south, useful for main sights. Buses and trolleybuses supplement. Taxis are affordable but beware of traffic. The cable car to Kok-Tobe Park costs 8000 tenge return.

Climate is continental: winter (daytime -2 to -5°C) and summer (up to 30°C). Best times are April-May (though wet) and September-October.

Accommodation ranges from basic hostels like Apelsin (US$50 double) to mid-range hotels like Hotel Almaty (US$90) and upscale options like Ritz-Carlton (US$680). Central areas near Zhibek Zholy metro offer convenience.

Kazakh cuisine features horse meat, shashlik, and hearty soups. Budget eateries like Basilic (24 hr canteen) and Alasha (Uzbeki) are affordable. Burgers are popular fast food. Drink options include pubs like Barmaglot Bar and Fuller's Pub.

Visit Ascension Cathedral (free), Central Mosque (free), Kasteyev Art Museum (500 tenge), Central State Museum (500 tenge), and Museum of Musical Instruments (1500 tenge). Ride the cable car to Kok-Tobe Park (8000 tenge) for views. Relax at Arasan sauna (from 5000 tenge). See a performance at Abay Opera House or catch FC Kairat football at Central Stadium.

Beware of traffic, safeguard valuables, and don't get drunk. Emergency numbers: 101 Fire, 102 Police, 103 Ambulance.

Almaty has 4G from Beeline and 5G from Kcell (activ) and Airtel. Buy SIM cards at convenience stores, activate by sending passport number and full name via SMS. Airport stores have ~40% markup.

A daily backpacker budget might be around 15,000-25,000 tenge for dorm hostel, street food, public transport, and one attraction. Cable car 8000 tenge, museum entry 500-1500 tenge, sauna from 5000 tenge.

Popular day trips include Chimbulak ski resort, Charyn Canyon (200 km east), Tamgaly Petroglyphs (170 km west), Turgen Gorge, and Lake Issyk. Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan) is a 4-5 hour drive.

Onward destinations: Astana (new capital, 13 hr by train), Lake Balkhash, Bishkek, Tamgaly Petroglyphs, Turgen Gorge, Charyn Canyon, and Urumqi in China.