Verona

Verona is an historic city of about 250,000 people in north-eastern Italy's Veneto region, inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Though close to the more popular tourist destination of Venice, many visitors find Verona a more relaxed and pleasant place to visit, with fewer tourists per square metre. It's most famous as the setting for Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet, but the city also showcases Roman ruins, transition-era art from late medieval to early Renaissance styles, and medieval architecture from the 12th-14th century Scaligeri (della Scala) family, whose emblem was a ladder (scala in Italian). Much of the pleasure comes from simply strolling the medieval centre, especially in the evening when day-trippers have departed.

Verona Villafranca Airport (Aeroporto Valerio Catullo) sits 12 km from the city and handles mostly budget flights from Brussels, Dublin, London, Paris Beauvais, Madrid, and domestic routes from Alghero, Palermo, Trapani, Brindisi, and Rome. The VeronaAirLink bus (Line 199) connects the airport to Verona Porta Nuova station in about 15 minutes for €7, running every 20 minutes from 05:15 to 23:10. The main railway station, Stazione Verona Porta Nuova, is approximately a 15-minute walk from the old town and sits at the intersection of the Brenner-line (Innsbruck to Bologna/Rome) and the Milan-Venice high-speed line. Frecciarossa or Italo high-speed trains run hourly to Milan (1:15-1:50) and Venice (1:10-1:20), while international connections from Munich take 5:30 with departures every two hours.

City bus schedules are available online, via Google Maps, and through the "ticket bus Verona" app. Buses 11, 12, or 13 on weekdays will get you from Stazione Porta Nuova to the Arena (Piazza Bra). Sunday and holiday schedules differ with a separate numbering system. You can pay fares at automatic machines, online via the app, from cigarette or lotto shops marked with blue "T" signs, or directly on the bus (cash only with an €0.80 surcharge on top of the €1.30 ticket). A funicular runs up to Castel San Pietro for €2 one way or €3 return.

Verona hosts world-class opera performances at the Arena between July and August, when the whole city books solid—book accommodation months in advance or consider staying in nearby Vicenza or Padua. The Christmas markets provide a festive atmosphere for winter visitors. The ancient Roman city lies 6 metres below today's street level, largely destroyed by the earthquake of 1117 AD, which led to centuries of rebuilding—most historical sights date from the past 800 years.

Verona receives millions of tourists annually, offering accommodation options much cheaper than nearby Venice. Budget options include Campeggio Castel San Pietro with spectacular city views and 15-minute walks to centre, and Ca Vendramin apartment near the Arena from €40 per person. Agriturismo Ca' del Ferro offers single rooms at €45-50 and doubles from €75, located 15 km from the heart. Hotel Italia Verona provides economical three-star lodging. During Arena opera season (July-August), book far in advance as every bed can be filled—cheaper alternatives exist in nearby Vicenza or Padua.

The Veronese are keen eaters of horse-meat (cavallo), a local specialty in dishes like pastisada de caval (braised horse meat) and picula de caval. Pasta dishes feature widely, including pizzocheri (buckwheat pasta with cheese and sage), casoncelli (a type of ravioli), and bigoli (thick spaghetti). Casoela is a pork casserole, while bollito misto is a mixture of boiled meats usually served with mostarda (fruit and vegetables in mustard). Piazza delle Erbe has more authentic bars for coffee and aperitivo compared to tourist-heavy Piazza Bra. For wine, explore Valpolicella wines including Amarone, Recioto, and valpolicella, available at wine bars like Signorvino (restaurant and shop where wine prices are the same at table as in store).

Top sights include the Arena (1st-century Roman amphitheatre, world's third-largest from antiquity, €10 regular/€8 students), Castelvecchio (14th-century fortified castle with city art museum, €6/€4.50 seniors, ramparts free to explore), and the churches of St Zeno and Sant'Anastasia (€4). The Lamberti Tower (€6 adult) offers 238 steps or lift to panoramic views. Juliet's House (via Cappello 23, €6) draws romantic pilgrims to its famous (though 1936-added) balcony and graffiti-covered courtyard—compare to other Verona treasures, the queues may not be worth it. Across the river, find Giardino Giusti (important Renaissance gardens with grottoes) and the Roman theatre (€1). One way to visit multiple attractions is the Verona Card.

As of June 2022, Verona has 5G coverage with all Italian carriers. Free WiFi is available at Verona Villafranca Airport with registration (SID: @FreeLuna_CATULLO). Bus tickets can be purchased via the "ticket bus Verona" app.

Lake Garda (Lago di Garda) is easily reachable from Verona—frequent regional trains to Peschiera del Garda take only 15 minutes, though the town itself isn't particularly attractive. Bus 185 to Garda town on the eastern shore takes about 2 hours with mediocre traffic and serves as a hub for lines going north. Buses 164 and 165 also serve Garda via Verona Airport. Other cities worth day-tripping by rail include Vicenza, Padova (Padua), Mantova, and Venice. Drive to Valpolicella valley for renowned Amarone, Recioto, and valpolicella wines plus ancient villas. Wine tours operate from Negrar di Valpolicella (Via Vigolo, 16).

The surrounding area around Verona offers access to some of Italy's most spectacular scenery—to the north are rolling hills with vineyards and small towns, to the west lies Lake Garda. Other cities and towns worth visiting as day-trips by rail include Vicenza, Padova (Padua), Mantova, and of course the major draw of Venice. Valpolicella valley is famous for its Amarone, Recioto, and valpolicella wines as well as ancient villas, reachable by car.