Varkala

Varkala is Kerala's answer to Goa before the crowds arrived: laterite cliffs drop sharply into the Arabian Sea, framing a sandy beach that stretches 500 m in season. If you're burned out on Kovalam's prices and selfie sticks, Varkala delivers excellent swimming, ayurvedic massage, Kathakali shows, and yoga retreats at a fraction of the cost. The town centers on a 2000-year-old Hindu pilgrimage site, while the north cliff area has developed into a mellow backpacker zone with cliff-top restaurants and affordable homestays.

Varkala has its own railway station in the town center, 5 km inland from the beach area. Autorickshaws charge around ₹80 to reach the cliff area. Coming from the north, Kottayam is about two hours by frequent train; from the south, Thiruvananthapuram is roughly an hour away. The nearest airport is Trivandrum International (TRV) about 40 km south.

The resort area spreads along two sets of cliffs—north and south—overlooking the beach. Papanasam Beach sits between them, while the quieter Black Beach lies to the north. Everything in the main tourist zone is walkable via the sidewalk that runs along the cliff edges. Odayam Beach is reached by continuing past Black Beach along the cliff pathway.

High season runs December 1 to March 31, with December and early January seeing the biggest crowds and highest prices. For budget travelers, the monsoon season (June-mid-September) is cheapest—swimming is still possible, and the town is very mellow. Summer (March-May) is hot and humid (25-33°C), though the beach stays popular. The Sivagiri Pilgrimage occurs December 30 to January 1, drawing thousands of devotees to the Samadhi of Sree Narayana Guru.

Accommodation clusters around two cliff areas: the more developed North Cliff (closer to most restaurants, shops, and the Tibetan market) and the quieter South Cliff (near the Janardhana Temple). Budget rooms start around ₹200-350 for basic fan rooms near the temple or railway station. Mid-range options like New Heaven (₹300-1000 depending on season) or Clafouti Heritage Beach Resort (₹1500-2500) offer better amenities near Black Beach. Yoga-focused homestays like Sharanagati Yogahaus include classes and Kerala-style lunch in the rate. Luxury seekers can try the Taj Gateway Hotel (₹5000-8000) or Blooming Bay Resort (₹4000-6000).

The cliff area has dozens of seasonal restaurants springing up November-March. Fresh seafood is the highlight—select your catch from the fishermen's display and have it grilled in the tandoor while watching the sunset. Little Tibet serves excellent momos (₹80-90) and fresh juices, while Abba German Bakery does breakfast combos (₹220-300). For vegetarian-only dining, Hotel Suprabhatham is the only 100% veg restaurant in Varkala. Shiva Garden Kerala Restaurant serves daily traditional Kerala thali. Rock n Roll Cafe on the cliff offers live music, cheap cocktails, and western breakfasts. Beer is widely available at cliff restaurants (Kingfisher is the standard), while KTDC's Beer Parlour is 6 km north in Puthanchanda. Coffee Temple near the Tibetan market is famous for excellent breakfasts and masala chai.

Varkala's main beach (Papanasam) is beautiful, with laterite cliffs creating a dramatic backdrop. Kayaking at Kappil (6 km north) costs ₹800 for a half-hour lagoon ride; Copa Cabana on the north cliff organizes mangrove trips—ask for Mr Vijeesh. Daily Kathakali shows (₹250) include the full make-up session from 5-6:45PM followed by the performance until 8:15PM. Ayurvedic spas are everywhere—S.M. Ayurveda near Black Beach charges ₹700-2500 per day for Panchakarma detox therapy. Savasana Yoga Center off the cliff offers daily classes. At Black Beach, join local cricket, volleyball, or football games starting around 4PM—just ask and you're in. The Juice Shack behind the Tibetan market has a salad buffet three times weekly and serves as a traveler information hub.

Varkala is generally safe for travelers, though standard precautions apply. Be cautious of ayurvedic spa scams—stick to registered practitioners and avoid aggressive sellers on the cliff. Some travelers report being promised free transport from the bus station and then charged ₹1000; confirm prices before accepting rides. Swimming is safe at Papanasam and Black Beach, though currents can be strong during monsoon. The beach is patrolled during high season.

Mobile coverage (Airtel, Jio, Vodafone) is good in the cliff area. Several cafes offer free WiFi, including Rock n Roll Cafe which advertises reliable free wifi. The Juice Shack provides water refills and is known as a travel information hub. SIM cards are readily available in town if needed.

Varkala suits budget travelers well. Dorm beds are rare; most accommodation is private rooms ranging ₹200-1000 for fan rooms up to ₹1500-2500 for air-conditioned options. Street food and small restaurants charge ₹80-150 per meal. Autorickshaw rides within town cost ₹80. Activities like kayaking (₹800), Kathakali shows (₹250), and ayurvedic treatments (₹700-2500/day) add cost but are optional. A realistic daily budget excluding accommodation is ₹400-800 for food and activities.

Kappil, 6 km north along a scenic cliff-top path, offers kayaking lagoons and the blue lagoon where the sea runs parallel to backwaters. Edava Beach is about 40 minutes' walk north; the area around Kappil has an estuary connecting sea and backwaters. The fishing hamlet of Anjengo has a British Fort worth exploring. Sivagiri Mutt, the pilgrimage center of Sree Narayana Guru, is in town and accessible year-round. A half-day trip to Kollam (one hour north by taxi) offers boat rides on the Kerala backwaters.

Varkala is a Hindu pilgrimage site, and the Janardhana Temple (non-Hindus cannot enter the inner sanctum but can visit the grounds) and Sivagiri Mutt require modest dress. Cover shoulders and knees when visiting temples, even if you're not entering. During Sivagiri Pilgrimage (Dec 30-Jan 1), the town fills with devotees; behave respectfully around religious observances. Beach attire is fine on the sand but cover up when walking through town.

Alleppey (two hours by train) offers famous houseboat backwaters and snake boat races. Kollam (one hour north) is an easy half-day trip for backwater boat rides. Kottayam (two hours by frequent train) provides access to backwaters and Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary. For beaches, continue north along the coast to Kappil and Edava, scenic walks from Varkala along the cliff path.