Udaipur

Udaipur is the capital of the Mewar district in Rajasthan and one of India's most romantic cities, set around a cluster of artificial lakes with marble palaces rising from the water. It was the filming location for the James Bond film Octopussy and remains famous for its romantic backdrops, making it popular with couples. The city offers a slower, more relaxed pace than Delhi or Jaipur, with narrow old-city lanes, heritage havelis converted to boutique hotels, and rooftop restaurants overlooking Lake Pichola. For backpackers, it provides affordable thali meals, cheap autorickshaw rides, and a wealth of history within walking distance.

Maharana Pratap Airport (IATA: UDR) lies 25 km northeast of the city centre and handles daily flights from Delhi and Mumbai on Air India, SpiceJet, and indiGo. The city is well connected by train with Udaipur City railway station on broad gauge; the Palace on Wheels tourist train terminates here. Long-distance buses arrive at the main bus stand near the city centre. Most overland arrivals come via Delhi, Jaipur, or Mount Abu.

Most of the old city can be covered on foot; the narrow alleyways of the old city make any other form of transport impractical in that area. A tuk-tuk (autorickshaw) will usually cost around ₹50 and should never cost more than ₹100 within the city. App-based cab hailing services Uber and Ola are increasingly popular and generally cost less than tuk-tuks with no fare-haggling. To reach the Monsoon Palace or the Sajjangarh Biological Park, a taxi or tuk-tuk is necessary.

The best season to visit is September to March when temperatures range from 8°C to 32°C and the climate is pleasant for sightseeing and outdoor activities. Winters (December to February) offer pleasant weather perfect for all tourist activities. Summers (mid-March to June) are very hot with temperatures reaching up to 45°C, especially April to June, making this period inadvisable for travel. Monsoons (July to September) bring scanty rainfall and high humidity, though the lakes fill with rainwater and the surroundings turn lush green. March offers comfortably warm weather and is ideal for sightseeing. The Hariyali Amavasya Mela (Green New Moon Fair) is held at Fateh Sagar Lake in August/September.

Udaipur has a wide range of accommodation from budget homestays to heritage haveli hotels. In the old city along the lake, heritage havelis like Jagat Niwas Palace Hotel (standard rooms from ₹1,850), Jaiwana Haveli (standard rooms ₹2,560), and Mewar Haveli (₹1,850-2,550) offer lake views and rooftop restaurants. Budget options include Zostel Udaipur near the city palace with dorm beds from ₹449 and double rooms from ₹1,999, and Pleasure Guest House at ₹350 per night with a balcony overlooking the palace. For a rural escape, Devra (₹5,500 with breakfast) is a 15-minute drive from the centre with panoramic views, while Krishna Ranch (₹2,000-2,500) near Badi village offers cottages decorated with regional handicrafts.

Udaipur is famous for spicy snacks like mirchi bada and kachori, along with traditional Rajasthani dishes Dal Baati Churma (lentils and rice with baked wheat balls), Pyaz Kachori (onion/flour balls), and Gatte Ki Sabzi (gram flour dumplings in curry). Unlimited thali restaurants serve selections of Rajasthani and Gujarati dishes for ₹140-220. Street stalls outside the old town sell cheap chaat (Indian fast food). Rooftop restaurants with romantic views of Lake Pichola are a highlight; notable options include Jaiwana Haveli Roof Top Restaurant (excellent dal baht), Ambrai @ Amet Haveli Hotel (₹250-400 mains, lake views and nightly fireworks), and Cool Cafe Restaurant with unlimited thali for ₹150. For coffee, Govinda's Cafeteria near Jagdish Chowk serves Lavazza espresso from ₹50. Cooking classes are also commonly offered throughout the city.

The City Palace complex (Museum ₹300, grounds ₹30; open 9:30AM-5:30PM) is the crown jewel, built in 1559 with Rajasthani, Mughal, European, and Chinese architecture, featuring delicate mirror work, murals, and silver work with panoramic views of Lake Pichola. Lake Pichola itself, an artificial freshwater lake created in 1362, surrounds the famous Lake Palace hotel and islands Jag Niwas and Jag Mandir. Fateh Sagar Lake, built in 1678, contains three islands including Nehru Park and the Udaipur Solar Observatory. The Jagdish Temple in Indo-Aryan style is located 150 m north of the palace. Bagore-ki-Haveli on Lake Pichola at Gangori Ghat hosts the popular Dharohar Dance Show (₹100 admission plus ₹100 camera fee), a 60-minute Rajasthani folk dance and puppet show. The Saheliyon ki Badi (Garden of the Maids) has fountains, kiosks, and a lotus pool with marble elephants. Aapni Dhani (₹250 per person) offers evening entertainment with magic shows, puppet shows, and unlimited Rajasthani dinner starting around 5-6PM. Shilpgram hosts a rural arts and crafts fair from 21st-31st December with evening performances (₹50). For adventure, Princess Trails runs horseback rides through Aravalli tribal villages with Swiss tent overnight options, while Art of Bicycle Trips offers cycling tours from ₹2,000.

Udaipur is generally considered a safe place and local people are very helpful. Visitors are advised to take care of personal belongings, particularly large amounts of cash, credit cards, or passports. Concealed money belts are helpful to avoid pickpocketing. Do not leave cash or valuables in hotel rooms and always cross-check restaurant and hotel bills for errors. Never pay anyone upfront, including taxi drivers. If travelling alone, it is advisable to stay within Udaipur itself rather than in remote areas.

App-based cab hailing services like Uber and Ola are widely available in Udaipur. WiFi is available at most hotels and cafes, particularly at rooftop restaurants near the lake. International roaming is available through Indian carriers.

Udaipur is affordable for backpackers. A budget traveller can eat well on ₹150-250 per day for thali meals and street food, with unlimited thali restaurants costing ₹140-220. Accommodation ranges from ₹250 dorm beds at Zostel to ₹1,500-2,000 for a decent private room. Local transport by tuk-tuk costs around ₹50 within the city. Entry to the City Palace museum costs ₹300, or ₹30 for grounds only. Dance shows and puppet performances cost ₹50-100.

The Sajjangarh Biological Park (Monsoon Palace) sits atop a hill overlooking the city and requires a tuk-tuk or taxi to reach. Ranakpur Jain Temples are a popular excursion on the road to Mount Abu. The Ahar Cenotaphs are about 2 km east of Udaipur with over 250 royal cenotaphs built over 350 years (open Tu-Su 9:45AM-5:15PM). Doodh Talai offers rock and fountain gardens with sunset views of Lake Pichola and connects via aerial tramway to Karni Mata temple.

Udaipur is a conservative Hindu city. Visitors should dress modestly when visiting temples, covering shoulders and knees. Shoes are typically removed before entering temples. The Jagdish Temple and other religious sites require respectful behaviour and quiet conduct. Photography may be restricted inside temple interiors.

Udaipur connects by train and bus to Jaipur (the Pink City, about 5-6 hours by train), Delhi, Jodhpur, Mount Abu, and the Rann of Kutch. Road trips to Kumbhalgarh Fort and the Jain temples of Ranakpur are popular. Mount Abu in the Aravalli hills offers a cool mountain retreat.