Trabzon

Trabzon was Trebizond, an independent Byzantine empire ruling the eastern Black Sea. Today it's a lively city with excellent visitor facilities, Byzantine churches converted to mosques, mountain villages reachable in an hour, and the main Turkish crossing into Georgia. The city preserves layers of Greek, Genoese, Ottoman and modern Turkish heritage without the tourist crowds of Istanbul.

Founded around 756 BC by Hellenistic settlers who named it Trapezous ("table") for its plateau between two ravines. It became a cosmopolitan Greek-speaking trading hub, then Roman, then Byzantine. After the 1071 defeat at Manzikert, Trebizond continued as an independent empire trading east along the Silk Road to China and Persia, and west to Genoa and Venice. The Ottomans conquered it in 1461. In the 18th-19th centuries Russia expanded around the Black Sea, and WWI battles devastated the city. The population was transformed by the Armenian genocide of 1915 and the Greek deportation of 1923, followed by Soviet Iron Curtain isolation until the 1990s.

The mountains draw clouds and rain. Summers (June-August) are warm and humid with frequent light showers; nights can feel sticky. Autumn is the wettest time. Winters are near-freezing with occasional warm snaps when southern winds push temperatures to 20°C. Spring (April-May) is dry and mild with sunshine between clouds. December-March brings snow to higher ground, with 20cm average in January.

Trabzon Airport has excellent domestic connections: hourly flights from Istanbul (IST and SAW), daily from Ankara, Izmir and Adana. International flights from Saudi Arabia, the Gulf states, and occasionally Germany. Havaş shuttle bus runs downtown; alternatively walk to the coastal highway for a dolmuş. The city is the largest in Turkey without a railway, and Black Sea ferries no longer operate here.

Walking gets you between the main sights of Meydan to the east, the central bazaar quarter, and the historic walled city southwest. Distances are less than 1 km but there's a lot of up and down on the ridge between Zagnos and Kuzgun ravines. A swarm of dolmuşes (shared taxis) ply through the city; the Dolmuş gar for out-of-town services is on Çömlekçi Cd by D010 coast highway, 200m southeast of Meydan. City dolmuşes start from Meydan beneath the Yavus Selim Blv viaduct.

Budget hotels cluster near the Otogar (100m south): Şanlı Otel and Hotel Nur both offer B&B doubles around 2000 TL. Mid-range options include Usta Park Hotel (2500 TL, clean and central) and Cephanelik Hotel (3000 TL, converted medieval arsenal). Upscale choices near the airport and Yomra include Ramada Plaza and Novotel (both around 5000 TL). The Zorlu Grand and Radisson Blu are central options with similar pricing but variable A/C performance.

The Black Sea coast's signature ingredient is hamsi (anchovies), appearing in many dishes. Midyeci Onur in the Eba market off Uzun Sk serves inexpensive seafood with late hours (Daily 12:00-02:00). Cemilusta on the north side of Meydan is popular for traditional cuisine. Tarihi Kalkanoğlu Pilavı has served traditional pilav dishes since 1856. Tea gardens like Ganita by Kalepark Fortress are quintessential local spots. Tap water is safe but heavily chlorinated; many prefer bottled water.

The city's top sight is Hagia Sophia (Ayasofya Cd 60, 3km west, dolmuş marked "Aya Sofya"), a Byzantine church from the 1250s with beautiful frescoes, free entry, open 24 hours. The City Museum (Kahramanmaraş Cd 14, adult 50 TL, Tu-Su 09:00-19:00) covers city history. For sports, Trabzonspor plays at Şenol Güneş Stadium (Papara Park) in Süper Lig. Traditional Turkish baths include Central Hamam (Kahramanmaraş Cd 3, daily 07:00-23:45) and the historic Sekiz Direkli Hamam west of the bazaar.

Sümela Monastery in Altındere Valley National Park (Maçka) is spectacular—a 4th-century monastery hewn into a cliff face. Foreigners pay €20 or use MüzeKart, open daily 08:00-20:00, with a minibus shuttle from parking. Uzungöl is a lake village 100km southeast in the mountains. Beach options include Kaşüstü Municipal Family Beach 10km east in Yomra, Kalecik Beach 25km east, and Akçakale Beach 24km west.

Trabzon and approach roads have 4G from all Turkish carriers. As of August 2025, 5G has not rolled out in Turkey. SIM cards are readily available from Turkish carriers.

In the city, beware traffic, safeguard valuables, and avoid lowlife, same as anywhere else. Remote mountain areas carry harsh weather risks and the danger of slips and strains far from assistance. Dangerous animals in the mountains include bears.

Turkish in its standard Anatolian form is the official language. The eastern Black Sea region has its own distinctive dialect, which sounds archaic and comical to Istanbul listeners. English may be understood by the younger generation especially in the service sector, but not as frequently as in Ankara or Georgia. Strangest of all is kuş dili ("bird language"), a whistled language in mountain villages such as Kuşköy between Trabzon and Giresun.

Akçaabat is a small resort 18km west. Giresun further west is a lively coast resort. Rize east has tourist attractions and is a stopover heading into the mountains or into Georgia. Batumi is the first place in Georgia; Trabzonites regard it as Las Vegas-on-Sea. Tonya is a mountain resort above Trabzon. Gümüşhane south across Zigana Pass is a base for walking in the hills. Erzurum is the next major city beyond the mountains. Buses and dolmuşes connect to all these destinations.

Uzun Sk is the city's pedestrianised main shopping street leading west off Meydan. The Çarşı (bazaar or Pazar) is 500m west of Meydan via pedestrianized Kunduracılar Cd. Local crafts include handwoven gold and silver bracelets, copper, leather, and traditional musical instruments. For spares and repairs heading east toward Georgia, Trabzon may be your last chance. Cevahir Outlet is a large mall in Yomra 10km east. Forum Shopping Center and Rubenis AVM (formerly Varlıbaş) offer modern mall experiences.

Budget travelers can manage on 800-1200 TL daily including dorm accommodation (if available), street food and cheap restaurants (hamsi dishes 100-250 TL), local transport (dolmuş rides 5-15 TL), and attractions (many mosques and museums free, City Museum 50 TL). Mid-range budget: 1500-2500 TL for private room, regular restaurant meals, and day trips.

Karadeniz Technical University (KTÜ), founded in 1955, has 32,000 students and 2,200 teaching staff; most teaching is in Turkish but a few courses are in English. Avrasya University is a private university founded in 2010 with three city campuses.