Tossa de Mar

Tossa de Mar is the only example of a fortified medieval town (Vila Vella) still standing on the Catalan coast, with 12th-century walls hugging a hilltop castle above the main beach. At 5,600 people, it keeps a small-village feel unlike its louder neighbours Lloret and Blanes, making it ideal for solo travellers and families seeking history, beaches, and walking trails without club noise. It's 103 km north of Barcelona and 40 km southeast of Girona, making it an easy Costa Brava addition.

Ryanair flies to Girona airport (100 km south of the French border), where an internet-booked shuttle bus costs €12-16 each way—book a return and phone to confirm the day before. Coaches run regularly to Barcelona from Tossa's bus station. If arriving by car from Barcelona, follow the AP-7 motorway and exit at Vidreres.

The town is very flat and easy to walk; most of the old town, beachfront, and supermarkets are within 10 minutes of each other. Wheelchair users can manage main streets, though many hotels lack step-free access. Buses run to Lloret de Mar (€1.30, 15 min) and Barcelona from the bus station near the tourist office—always buy return tickets as queues grow long in peak season. Free parking is available near the centre, plus paid options like Parking Platja Gran (€1.60/hr) on Av. de la Palma.

Peak season is July–August when the town fills with Spanish and international families; expect higher restaurant and accommodation prices. Thursday mornings host a market near the bus station. Out of season (September–June), many shops shut from 13:30–16:30 and some restaurants close entirely, so spring (May–June) or early autumn offer the best balance of warm weather and fewer crowds. Summer brings events at the lighthouse museum and boat trips along the coast.

Hotels and small hostels (mostly four floors) are scattered throughout the town, with almost all within easy walking distance of the beach and old town. Budget options include Hotel Windsor (from €30, 2 min from beach, pool and private terrace) and Hotel Marina Tossa (from €30, 15 min from centre, two pools and tennis courts). Hotel Diana offers a modernist boutique experience on the beachfront for around €60/night. Apartments are available through local agencies for monthly lets; confirm your apartment is not in the surrounding hills to avoid a steep walk. There are no noisy night clubs, so nights are generally quiet.

Restaurants cluster along the seafront promenade; prices rise the closer you sit to the beach. The cheapest eats are at Maxi Dia and Caprabo supermarkets (5 min walk from main roundabout on Av. de la Catalunya and Av. de Ferran Agullo). Restaurant Bahia on Passeig de Mar serves classic fish and seafood with outdoor beach views; Can Simón near the Vila Vella walls offers fine dining for over €100. Casual options include El Bocatas (creative sandwiches, open F–Su) and Da Giovanni (pizzas and gluten-free options, ~€25). For drinks, try La Luna bar in the old town or the terrace bars along Paseo del Mar like El Celler for people-watching. English newspapers and stamps available at the post office on Av. de Ferran Agullo.

The Vila Vella (old fortified town) is the star attraction: don't drive up as the road is narrow with no parking at the top—walk or take the green tourist train. At the hilltop, a working lighthouse and small museum charge €3 entry. Near the bus station, Roman villa ruins are a short walk (turn right). Thursday mornings bring a market; two tourist information bureaus (near bus station and main beach) hand out free multilingual maps. Beach activities include glass-bottom boats, SCUBA diving shops, and paddle boat hire at Platja Gran. Splash Ocean Adventures on the main beach offers boat trips with snorkelling included. Walking trails lead south along the cliffs and west into pine-covered hills; the tourist office has maps for these. A blue-and-white tourist train circles the town for a relaxed overview.

Tossa de Mar is notably safe—unusual for mainland Europe, cars stop at pedestrian crossings to let people cross. One automated speed camera sits about a mile out of town near the descent. Main concerns are summer crowds: motorbike riders rev loudly through narrow streets, and the centre gets very packed with tour groups and day-trippers arriving by bus, coach, and boat. The town has public toilets at both ends of Platja Gran and near other beaches.

As of January 2024, Tossa de Mar has 5G coverage from all Spanish carriers, with 4G on approach highways. Cyber cafes charge €2–3/hour. Hotels commonly offer free WiFi, air-conditioning, and CNN or Eurosport on room TVs. SIM cards from major Spanish carriers work throughout the town.

A backpacker can manage on €50–80/day: dorm beds or budget hotel rooms from €30, supermarket meals at Maxi Dia/Caprabo for €5–10, buses to Lloret de Mar (€1.30) or Barcelona (return ticket recommended). Free walking trails and beach time cost nothing; museums charge around €3. Avoid Magatzems Palau near the town centre roundabout—it's pricier than the discount supermarkets. ATMs and bank offices are available for cash withdrawals in euros.

Lloret de Mar (15 min by bus, €1.30) has more nightlife and beaches; Blanes (reachable via Lloret) hosts a Monday market. Barcelona is a full day trip by coach departing from Tossa's bus station—useful if staying a week or more. Boat trips run to Sant Feliu de Guíxols. Walking the GR-92 trail northeast to Sant Feliu de Guíxols or southwest toward Blanes offers scenic coastal views. The Pola-Giverola resort area south of town includes Cala Giverola beach with bar and facilities, accessible via the Pola campsite.

Lloret de Mar and Blanes are easily reachable by coach or ferry along the GI-681 road, with Blanes offering a Monday market. Barcelona makes a natural next stop (coaches depart regularly), or continue north along the Costa Brava toward Cadaqués and the French border. The GR-92 walking trail connects Tossa de Mar to Sant Feliu de Guíxols to the northeast and Tordera to the southwest. Girona, with its cathedral and Jewish quarter, is 40 km northwest—reachable by bus or car.