Siwa

There are no flights to Siwa, making the two long desert roads the only approach. Buses connect Siwa to Marsa Matruh on the Mediterranean coast, with the journey taking approximately 6-8 hours. From Marsa Matruh, you can continue to Alexandria or Cairo. The main bus stop is in the broad street outside the police station, where tickets go on sale about an hour before departure. Taxis also gather in this area.

Siwa town is compact enough to explore on foot. For outlying sights like the Temple of the Oracle (4 km east), Gebel el-Mawta (1 km north), and the various desert excursions, you'll need a 4x4 vehicle. Local taxi drivers and tour operators offer day trips and overnight safaris to sites like Gebel Darkur, Bilad er-Rum, and Maraqi. Walking between the main market square, hotels, and restaurants is straightforward in the town center.

The best time to visit Siwa is during the cooler months from October to March, when daytime temperatures are more manageable (around 20-25°C). Summer months bring extreme heat near 40°C, while winter nights can drop to around 5°C. Rainfall is almost nonexistent year-round. The equinox sunrise at Timasirayn temple (March 21 and September 23) draws visitors who watch the sunrise align with the Temple of the Oracle on the horizon. October features a village festival at Gebel Darkur, though this is a local family reunion rather than a tourist event.

Accommodation in Siwa ranges from basic budget options to boutique eco-lodges. The Cleopatra Hotel offers the best value with singles from LE14-18 and doubles from LE25-42 depending on bathroom facilities. The Palm Trees Hotel provides private rooms from LE15 with shared bath in a large garden setting, though bed bugs have been reported. For more character, the Albabenshal Hotel and SiwaShali Lodge both charge around LE375 per double room and are decorated in authentic Siwan style with palm frond furniture and colorful Bedouin carpets. The Ghaliet Ecolodge near the Oracle offers a peaceful garden setting with 13 unique rooms and a swimming pool.

Siwa Dates are considered the best in Egypt, sold in shops around Market Square for LE7-8 per 500g box. They're also sold stuffed with almonds and chocolate. Local restaurants cluster around Market Square and the road to the bus station. Abdu's Restaurant offers breakfast and diverse entrées from LE6-25, while East-West provides fresh fish, pigeon, and pizzas from LE3-15. For budget eating, the Nour El Waha Restaurant (LE2-5) serves Egyptian and Western cuisine in a palm grove opposite the market. Abou Ayman near the Shalientrance is known for grilled chicken and kofta at around LE20 for half a chicken. Siwan Tea, a red tea commonly served on desert safaris, costs about LE15 for a 500g box of tea leaves.

The Temple of the Oracle (Aghurmi) sits on a hill 4 km east of town and charges LE50 for foreigners (LE25 adults, LE15 students). Built around 570 BCE and dedicated to the god Amun, this is where Alexander the Great asked if he was the son of Zeus. Nearby, the Temple of Umm Ubeida (400m south) is free to enter but only one wall remains after an 1897 demolition. Gebel el-Mawta (Mountain of the Dead) 1 km north has Ptolemaic and Roman rock tombs open Sa-Th 9AM-3PM (LE50 for adults). Cleopatra's Bath is a natural hot spring at 29°C located 900m south of the Temple of Umm Ubeida. Fatnas Island, 6 km west, offers bathing in hot springs and sunset views over the silted lake. Desert excursions by 4x4 can reach Gebel Darkur (4 km southeast) for climbing and sand burial therapy, as well as more distant sites like Bilad er-Rum and Maraqi (30-35 km west) with rock tombs and ruins.

Siwa is extremely safe as a very conservative and traditional town. There is no risk of theft or physical violence as long as travelers behave according to expected norms (see Respect below). Mosquitoes can be a small nuisance, particularly around the lake areas and during evening hours. Standard desert precautions apply: stay hydrated, protect against sun exposure, and inform someone of your plans when venturing into more remote areas.

Internet and phone services in Siwa are limited. Gas stations (beside the mosque in Shaliland behind Hotel Arous al-Waha) may have basic connectivity. The telephone office is located across the street from Hotel Arous al-Waha, alongside the post office and police station. Mobile coverage may be available but can be unreliable in remote areas. Visitors should not expect high-speed internet or extensive WiFi availability; it's advisable to handle essential communications before arriving in the oasis.

Siwa is very affordable for backpackers. Budget travelers can eat well on LE20-30 per day for meals, with street food and local restaurants offering excellent value. Accommodation ranges from LE14-18 for budget singles at Cleopatra Hotel up to LE375 for boutique lodges. Transport to/from Siwa is the main expense, with bus fares to Marsa Matruh taking several hours. Activities like temple visits cost LE50 for foreigners, while desert excursions require hiring a 4x4. Daily budget excluding transport could be LE150-300 depending on accommodation choices.

Siwa is conservative and visitors should dress modestly. Women should not wear clothing that reveals shoulders, breasts, or legs. Public displays of affection are prohibited. Alcohol should not be consumed in public. Male travelers should avoid contact with local women as this is considered rude and hostile. During Ramadan, additional restrictions apply and many businesses may have limited hours. Always ask permission before photographing people, especially women. When visiting mosques or religious sites, remove shoes before entering.

The only open route from Siwa is back to the Mediterranean coast at Marsa Matruh, approximately 6-8 hours by bus. From Marsa Matruh, explore the wartime sites (World War II battles) before continuing to Alexandria or Cairo. The journey north offers views of the changing desert landscape as you approach the coast. There are no roads south of Siwa, making the return journey the only option for onward travel.