Side

Side is a resort town on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast with a population of 11,000, famed for its remarkably preserved Roman ruins sandwiched between the harbour and modern residential districts. The town’s compact old town means most antiquities—including the iconic Temple of Apollo, a 15,000-seat amphitheatre, and the monumental city gate—are walkable from the bus station. Tourist literature “Side” encompasses a 20-km swathe of beach hotels on either side of the historic core, making it popular with families and sun-seekers alongside culture enthusiasts.

Side’s ancient language used 25 characters written right-to-left and resembled proto-Anatolian Luwi languages; the only deciphered word means “cicada.” The town became Hellenistic after Alexander the Great conquered it in 333 BC. Romans took control in 67 BC and built the magnificent city visible today, including the amphitheatre still used for events. After centuries of decline following pirate raids and 4th-century AD attacks, the settlement was abandoned in the 10th century. Seljuks and Ottomans ruled for the next thousand years, leaving the ruins unbuilt-over. Turkish Cypriots renamed it Selimiye during population exchanges, but it reverted to Side when tourism developed in the 1950s.

Side is just off the D400 coastal highway west of Manavgat, reachable by bus, dolmuş, or taxi. The main Side Otogarı (bus station) sits at the edge of the archaeological zone, outside the narrow old-town gate. Intercity buses to Istanbul, Izmir, Konya, and Denizli originate here, while buses to Antalya start from Manavgat Otogar. Dolmuş services connect the beach strips to the town centre.

The walk from the bus station to the main antiquities and old town is only 2 km—easily manageable on foot. If driving, park near the station to avoid the narrow old-town alleys. Dolmuş minibuses connect the two beach strips to the town centre; “dolmuş” means “stuffed” so expect to squeeze in tight. Taxis are best booked through your accommodation.

The Mediterranean climate brings hot summers (30–35°C) perfect for beach holidays and sightseeing, while winters are mild but some sites and restaurants may have reduced hours. Peak season runs June through August when beach resorts are busy and prices are highest. Spring (April–May) and autumn (September–October) offer pleasant temperatures for combining ruins visits with beach time. The famous Side Theatre hosts events including concerts and dance performances throughout the year.

Accommodation in Side ranges from budget-friendly options like Lemas Suite (B&B double 1000 TL) and Side Resort Hotel (B&B double 2000 TL) to mid-range choices such as Arcanus Trendline Resort (B&B double 3500 TL) and Side Star Beach (mid-price). Luxury properties like Barut Hemara and Acanthus & Cennet Barut offer B&B doubles from 6000–10,000 TL. Most budget and mid-range hotels cluster within walking distance of the old town and beach, while larger resort complexes line the 20-km beach strips east and west of town, connected by dolmuş.

The Roman aqueduct stands 50 m south of the bus station, built circa 150–200 AD and extending 30 km to the city. The Nymphaeum is an elaborate fountain 100 m southwest of the bus station, marking the start of Liman Cd. The Roman monumental gate remains in use by vehicles on Liman Cd, a bottleneck with Vespasian Fountain on its south flank and the Side Museum on the north. The Side Museum (Liman Cd; daily 08:30–19:30) is housed in a 5th-century bathhouse and exhibits artifacts from the site. The Agora market square lies east of the amphitheatre, with a 24-seater public latrine in its northwest corner. The State Agora was a public space rather than a market, with the Library its most substantial remaining structure. The iconic Temple of Apollo, built in 150 AD, has several re-erected columns and sits adjacent to the ruined Temple of Athena and a Byzantine basilica. The 15,000-seat Amphitheatre (Liman Cd 2; adult 300 TL; daily 08:00–20:00) is still used for events, with a temple to Dionysius on its north flank.

Scuba diving operators include Scuba Side, Side Diving Center, Side Azura, and Deniz Feneri. The Mediterranean offers good conditions for beginners and novices, though marine life is limited compared to tropical waters. Aquajoy is a pirate-themed water park east of town near Otium Eco Club—popular with families despite basic facilities. Sidespor football club plays in amateur leagues at Atatürk Stadium (capacity 1000) 500 m east of the bus station. The harbour area and old town offer pleasant evening strolls, particularly around the Temple of Apollo at sunset.

Dağ Süpermarket northwest of the bus station is described as a tourist trap with inflated prices. Erdem supermarket at Sarmaşık Sk 24 is recommended for better selection and prices, open 07:00–03:30. Most other stores are in residential districts inland. Street stalls are tourist-focused with silly prices even after haggling. Saturday market runs 09:00–12:00 opposite Fatih Mosque but is described as overpriced low-quality goods.

The harbour and old town area contain over a dozen restaurants. Elia is noted for having the best views. Budget meals are available at lokantasi (Turkish buffets) in the old town, while beach-front establishments cater to resort guests. Fresh seafood is available at harborside restaurants, typically priced higher than local Turkish fare.

The old town hosts several bars including Cafe Easy Rider, Sapphire, Royal Castle, Karma, and Azumare. Beach strip cafes mostly serve alcohol and cater to tourists. The resort area has a lively evening scene, particularly around hotel entertainment programs.

Side is a popular tourist resort with generally good security. Standard precautions apply: watch belongings on crowded beaches and at tourist sites, be cautious of traffic on Liman Cd where the monumental gate creates a bottleneck. Women travelers should dress modestly when visiting mosques and religious sites. The beach strips are well-patrolled but always swim between flags and heed lifeguard warnings.

Side, Manavgat, and the coastal strip have 4G coverage from all Turkish carriers including Turkcell, Vodafone, and Türk Telekom. As of July 2023, 5G has not rolled out in Turkey. SIM cards are readily available at convenience stores and phone shops with various prepaid data packages.

Manavgat lies a few kilometres inland with a modern town centre and waterfalls worth visiting. Alanya is a large resort to the east with a citadel and castle perched dramatically on a crag. Antalya, to the west, is a major city with excellent museums and antiquities. The D400 coastal highway provides connections to all these destinations.