Sari

Sari is an ancient city that served as the capital of the Hyrcania civilization six centuries before Christ and the Kingdom of Tabaria until the 17th century, later becoming Iran's capital twice in the last four centuries. The city sits on the left side of Tajan River, about 20 km south of the Caspian Sea on the northern slopes of the Elburz mountains. Unlike many Iranian cities, Sari offers summer nightlife with people gathering at venues like Barbod, Paradise, Tooska, and Nemashoun to enjoy music, poetry, and the pleasant weather.

Sari is accessible by air via Dasht-e Naz International Airport in the northeast, less than 10 km from the city center, offering four daily flights in summer and six weekly flights in other seasons to Tehran (fares around US$20). Weekly flights also connect to Mashhad and Saudi Arabia. The Sari railway station provides regional train connections. Bus services connect to various destinations including the route toward Damghan.

The city sprawls widely, making taxis the most practical option and they are available almost everywhere. Multiple taxi systems operate including ceremony taxis, wireless telecommunication taxis, airport/rail station taxis, telephony taxis, and shared taxis. Travelers staying more than a week can register with taxi service 133, which dispatches rides anywhere in Sari within five minutes or from distances up to 20 km, and can even arrange journeys throughout Iran.

The best time to visit Sari is during spring, particularly April and May, when the weather is balmy and jasmine-scented air flows through open windows. The city comes alive during summer months when Mazandaran's rare summer nightlife activates. Winters bring Caspian Tea culture as the favorite drink. The nearby Badab-e Surt travertine terraces are best visited in daylight hours with an early start.

Accommodation options range from budget to mid-range. Sarooyah Apartments on Taleghani Blvd offers cheap, comfortable guestrooms with twin rooms under USD10 including AC, refrigerator, and private bathroom. Salardarreh Hotel on Kiyasar Rd South sits in forest heartland with forest and valley views, frequented by Norwegian, German, and Swedish guests with guaranteed English. Narenj Hotel on Darya Rd North suits spring visits. Many guest rooms (Mehman Pazir) cluster on Nader Street (Jomhuri-ye Eslami Street) near the city center and Tajan bridge.

Fish is the signature cuisine in Sari, complemented by kebab shops scattered throughout the city. No meal is complete without Iranian bread (Naan) and salads. Farhang Street in the city center and Tavakol alley host many restaurants, with the latter offering Italian dishes. Winter's favorite drink is Caspian Tea (Chay), available everywhere, especially in colder months. Summer brings Doogh, a traditional yoghurt drink, while ZamZam cola is a local alternative.

Historical attractions include the restored 125-year-old Khaneh Kolbadi, reminiscent of an 18th-century khan's palace with orosi windows (wood-framed multicolored glass puzzles) and thick walls for temperature control. The unusual Jameh Mosque features traditional Mazandarani tiled roofs but resembles a medieval Italian prison from outside. Nature lovers can explore Tajan River Park, Zare' Forest Park east toward Behshar road, or hike Pol-e-Gardan trail. Bam-e-Shahr Hill offers panoramic city views. The 100 km south Badab-e Surt travertine terraces rival Pamukkale, Turkey, reached via a 2-km trail from a parking lot through Kiasar.

Sari is considered very safe even in the middle of the night, allowing visitors to move freely without worry. Emergency contacts include police at 110, emergency medical services at 115, and fire department at 125. Visitors are advised to use ATM debit cards to avoid carrying large amounts of cash. Bank-e Melli-ye Iran (National Bank of Iran) and Sepah Bank offer services for tourists including gift cards that cannot be recharged once empty.

Internet cafes and chat rooms are scattered throughout Sari, with speeds ranging from acceptable to fast. Foreigners typically frequent cafes around Time Square. Look for providers with servers for higher speed connections. Multiple telecommunications taxis and wireless taxi services indicate decent mobile network infrastructure.

Sari offers excellent value for budget travelers. Guesthouse rooms with AC, refrigerator, and private bathroom can cost under USD10 per night. Meals center around affordable fish and kebab options with salads and bread. Local taxis and shared taxis provide cheap transport within the city. The nearby Orost village near Badab-e Surt offers homestay possibilities with local Iranian families.

Badab-e Surt travertine terraces 100 km south of Sari are reachable by private car via Kiasar or by public buses to Orost Village departing around 12:00 from Kiasar. The 2-km trail leads to spectacular views, though expensive pickup rides (from US$20) can be hired for the steep hike. Qor-Maraz natural spa near Neka offers relaxation. Forest parks like Zare' Forest Park and Salardareh Forest Park are accessible as half-day excursions.

Sari is relatively cosmopolitan for Iran with many English-speaking residents. If struggling with language, locals appreciate attempts using Mazandarani phrases like "Tie Fieda" or "Tie ri Bielaarremi" spoken with extended, singing-like tones for better understanding. Respectful dress is recommended when visiting mosques and religious sites.

From Sari, travelers can continue exploring Caspian Iran with its coastal towns, mountain villages, and lush greenery. Tehran lies to the south with frequent flights and train connections. The historic route toward Damghan and beyond offers further exploration. The Elburz mountains provide numerous hiking opportunities, while the Caspian Sea coast stretches east and west with smaller towns to discover.