Punta del Diablo

Punta del Diablo is a small seaside village in the Department of Rocha on Uruguay's Atlantic Coast. Every summer it grows from a few hundred residents to upwards of twenty thousand vacationers, mainly Argentinians, Brazilians, and Uruguayans. The charming balneario is known for its eclectic architecture and traditional artisan fishing industry, offering a slower, rustically authentic coastal escape compared to nearby resort towns like Punta del Este.

The town has two very distinct seasons. Summer (mid-December to mid-February) brings sunbathing on gorgeous beaches and a lively club scene among throngs of vacationers. Winter is much quieter, with deserted beaches, unbeatable surfing conditions, and fireside chats. Peak season fills completely during the first two weeks of January when reservations are required even for dorm beds. Easter week (Tourism Week) is also high season.

Punta del Diablo is served by regular bus service to Chuy (Brazil border), Rocha (departmental capital), and Montevideo. Summer seasonal service runs along the coast to La Paloma, La Pedrera, and Punta del Este. Some buses stop only at the highway turn-off, requiring a 5-km walk or hitch hike into town. Renting a car from Montevideo is recommended for groups of four or more; avoid agencies at the port terminal as prices are at least double other locations for the same company.

The town is walkable end-to-end in about an hour. A regular bus service runs from 'el camping' on the main road to Playa de Pescadores (fishermen's beach). Locals commonly use motorcycles, 4-wheelers, or horses. A taxi often waits near the bus stop to carry luggage to rented houses. You do not need a vehicle to get around.

Accommodation ranges from small hotels and hostels to rented cabins and houses. High season prices (Dec 15-Feb 15) range from US$10 per night for basic dorms to US$300 per night for houses. Off-season offers dramatically lower prices, with monthly rentals available for what would cost a single day in January. Almost every house in town gets rented out during high season, with reservations typically starting in September. Note that basic items like towels, bedding, and toilet paper are often not included; some rentals charge US$10 for bedding and US$5 per towel.

A 'plaza de comidas' (food plaza) is located south of the center, with restaurants along the main strip. Fish and seafood can be bought directly from fishermen at beach stands. Four or five small supermarkets have butcher's counters. Most restaurants close during off-season. Food costs about twice as much as the rest of Uruguay. About a dozen small bars and clubs operate in the center, with live music a staple of summer evenings.

Punta del Diablo is a prime surfing destination, with Playa Rivero and La Viuda offering great waves depending on conditions; Santa Teresa has consistent point breaks including La Moza, Uruguay's longest right break. Season runs mid-December through mid-February. Summer activities include jeep tours to the Ombu forest, beach horseback riding (not allowed on beaches during peak months), and hiking 100 km either direction along the sparsely populated beach. Dune boarding on large dunes at La Viuda beach offers sandboarding thrills.

There is one ATM in town, located at Paseo de Rivera, which only operates during summer and may not work for foreign cards—it only dispenses pesos. Many accommodation owners prefer payment in US dollars. A bank in Chuy (about one hour's bus journey) can provide US dollar cash advances.

Budget travelers should aim for off-season visits when accommodation drops dramatically from high-season rates. A rented house costs what one day costs in January. Dorms at Compay Hostel run U$400-600. Fish Shack meals for two with beer cost around U$300. The artisans market charges U$10 to use the bathroom. Overall, food costs about twice the rest of Uruguay.

Regular bus service runs from the central plaza to Chuy (Brazilian border, 1 hour), Rocha (1.5 hours), Punta del Este (3 hours), and Montevideo (4 hours). North of town, the Santa Teresa biological reserve offers beach walks, and the historic Fort of Santa Teresa is about 1 hour away by car (admission U$40). To the south, a pleasant beach walk leads to the lighthouse.