Puerto Maldonado

Puerto Maldonado is the main city of Madre de Dios department in southeastern Peru, serving as the primary gateway to the Amazon jungle. The city itself has few tourist attractions, but it's the essential starting point for jungle lodge stays and Tambopata National Reserve expeditions. The town has a relaxed, frontier atmosphere with moto-taxis, river views, and affordable restaurants.

Padre Aldamiz International Airport (PEM) is the main entry point, with only LATAM Peru operating flights from Cusco and Lima. Commercial flights in and out of Puerto Maldonado are almost always in the morning or early afternoon. If you've booked a jungle lodge (Wasai, Sandoval, Posadas), your guide typically meets you at the airport holding a sign with the lodge name and transports you by van to Puerto Tambopata river port, then by boat to the lodge.

Motorcycle-driving taxis dominate the streets and will take you anywhere for S/2-5 per trip, with common routes being airport to plaza de armas, airport to Puerto Tambopata, or airport to hotels. Motorcycle rentals are available throughout town for about S/5 per hour if you prefer to explore independently.

The Plaza de Armas is the main square, great for photos and people-watching. The Confluence of the Tambopata and Madre de Dios rivers is in the eastern part of town near government buildings with a lovely courtyard. Monkey Island in the middle of the river is home to hundreds of monkeys that may try to steal your belongings. The eight-storey Obelisk offers views of the city and both rivers for just a few soles, with sculptures by a local artist. The Rescue Snake House on the main road from the airport shows rescued snakes, reptiles, and a blind Margay cat with volunteer guides.

The Tambopata National Reserve is famous for its great biodiversity but requires a permit and is not cheap to visit. For cheaper jungle experiences, explore the Tambopata Candamo Reserved Zone outside the park. Other activities include macaw and parrot claylicks, lake excursions, and canopy tower climbs. Several retreat centers line Carretera Tambopata, including yoga center Kapievi at km 1.5 and animal shelter Amazon Shelter at km 11. Motorbikes can be rented for countryside exploration.

El Hornito near Banco de Credito is a pizzeria worth waiting for, opening at 18:30. Tu Dulce Espera on Leon Velarde is excellent and very cheap, open most of the day except during the hot afternoon siesta. El Tigre southeast of the market has the best ceviche in town, very cheap, with chicharron de pescado and fried yucca as alternatives. Burger Plaza on the southwest corner of the main square offers good quality at very cheap prices. La Vaca Loca across from the main square serves fantastic steak with great wine in a cow-oven atmosphere. Copasú on Plaza de Armas offers ice cream with Amazonian flavors like brazil nut and guava. Anaconda Lodge Thai Restaurant, 15 minutes outside the city near the airport, serves authentic Thai food with a swimming pool.

Club El Witite is a Peruvian disco open until about 05:00, though taxis become hard to find after midnight. Carambola is another decent club on the street leading up to the Capitania port. Ruztika's serves impressive cocktails with local flavors and has beautiful night views of the confluence of the Madre de Dios and Tambopata rivers.

Laundry services are available throughout town, including one on Leon Velarde, charging by the kilo at very reasonable prices. Dozens of shops line Leon Velarde, especially near Puerto Tambopata river bank, where you can find pretty much anything needed. Goods are slightly more expensive than in other parts of Peru since Puerto Maldonado imports many items.

Internet cafes are available throughout town at S/2 per hour, with at least two on the north side of Plaza de Armas. Puerto Maldonado now has high-speed cable internet, though speeds are not as fast as major cities. A reasonable person can check and send about a half dozen emails in 15-20 minutes.

Puerto Maldonado is part of Madre de Dios department, with onward travel typically involving flights back to Cusco or Lima via Padre Aldamiz International Airport. The town serves as the departure point for jungle lodges along the Tambopata River.