Pingyao

Pingyao is accessible by train, with high-speed connections to major cities. Beijing is 4-5 hours away by high-speed train, Xi'an is 3 hours by train, Taiyuan is just 30 minutes away, and Datong is 3 hours by train. The Pingyao Gucheng railway station serves the ancient city area.

The old walled city is only about 1 mile by 1 mile (1.6 km by 1.6 km), making walking the primary way to explore. Most of the old walled city is off-limits to taxis and cars. Golf carts are available for hire at around ¥5 for a single person or ¥15 for four people. Bicycle rental costs approximately ¥10 per day, though crowded streets with Chinese tourists may not make cycling faster than walking.

The Lantern Festival, held 15 days after the Lunar New Year, sees the town decorated in red lanterns with parades. The Pingyao Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon International Film Festival (PYIFF) takes place for 15 days in mid-September to October, featuring films from non-Western countries. Shoulder seasons offer milder weather and fewer crowds.

The ancient city is full of Ming/Qing-era compounds converted into hotels and hostels, making staying in one part of the experience. On the main street, beds can cost up to ¥400, but exploring backstreets can reduce this price by three-quarters. Modern accommodation is mostly located outside the old city walls. Popular hostels include Yamen Hostel (¥35 dorm, ¥80 double) and Harmony Guesthouse (¥40 dorm, ¥80-120 double).

Pingyao's signature dish is Pingyao Beef, with an acquired strong taste similar to corned beef. Be cautious in touristy restaurants where bills of ¥100 or more are not uncommon for seemingly cheap meals. Food inside the city walls often caters to tourists and is overpriced. Going outside the walls usually yields better prices and quality. Fangie Breakfast Beef Huoshao offers Pingyao beef sandwiches for ¥15. Western options include Sakura (on East/West street) and Lily's Pub (on Ming-Qing Street).

The 6-km-long city walls date from 1370 and can be walked atop, with 3000 crenellations and 72 watchtowers. The Rishengchang Exchange House (1823) was China's first bank, now a museum. The Pingyao County Yamen Museum, built in 1346, contains over 300 rooms. Ming-Qing Street is the main commercial avenue with traditional shops. The Temple of the City God dates to the Northern Song Dynasty. Shuanglin Temple (7 km southwest) houses over 2000 colorful sculptures. Zhenguo Temple (12 km northwest) is the only remaining temple in China built in Five Dynasties Period style.

The Ancient City is lined with tourist-oriented shops selling standard Chinese bric-a-brac at relatively high prices. Beware of antique forgeries and bargain hard. Look for stalls selling handmade crafts where they are made. Pingyao is known for excellent cloth shoes and has a large lacquerware industry. Along with Datong, Pingyao is a good place to buy Shanxi's famous aged dark vinegar, sold in supermarkets, food shops, and tourist stores. For modern shops, the area outside the west gates is recommended.

Nightlife is limited, but you can sip drinks until midnight at many guesthouse restaurants. Domestic and foreign beers, Chinese hard liquor (typically 50% or stronger), and Chinese whiskey (~35%) are available at most shops. Sakura offers Western food, music, and drinks at reasonable prices in the center of East/West Street. Lily's Pub on Ming-Qing Street is popular with single travelers.

The Chang Family Compound (¥80) in Chewuang Village is the largest Shanxi merchant manor, with only one quarter of the original 600,000 m² remaining. The Qiao Family Compound (¥115) in Qiaojiabao Village was featured in Zhang Yimou's film 'Raise the Red Lantern.' The Qu Family Compound (¥40) in Qi County includes access to six museums including an abacus museum. The Wang Family Compound (¥55) in Lingshi County has 54 courtyards and over 1000 rooms. Mount Mian (¥110 April-October, ¥90 November-March) is 40 km south and is the birthplace of the Qingming Festival. Zhangbi Castle (¥67), 10 km southeast of Jiexiu, features 1.5 km of restored underground passages.

From Pingyao, Beijing is 4-5 hours by high-speed train, Xi'an is 3 hours by train, Taiyuan is 30 minutes by train, and Datong is 3 hours by train. These connections make Pingyao an excellent stop on a broader Shanxi or central China itinerary.