Pemba

Pemba is the capital of Cabo Delgado Province in northern Mozambique, with around 100,000 residents and access to the world's third-largest natural bay. The town retains a rundown feel with potholed streets but offers Portuguese colonial architecture, banks, patisseries, supermarkets, and restaurants. It's a prime destination for water sports and diving enthusiasts, with a coral reef lying close to shore. Increasingly popular with upper-middle-class Mozambicans and South Africans, the town has international flights and emerging tourism facilities.

Pemba Airport (IATA: POL) has international flights to Johannesburg (South Africa), Nairobi (Kenya), Dar es Salaam (Tanzania), and Dzaoudzi (Mayotte). Domestic flights from Maputo, Beira, and Nampula are operated by Linhas Aereas de Mocambique. Customs facilities are available at the airport, and visas are available on arrival for some nationalities. Check with an embassy ahead of time and pack a change of clothes in hand luggage as checked luggage has been known to arrive late.

Public buses run on main routes for around 5 Meticais. Hitchhiking around Pemba is considered safe. A taxi ride from the airport to the furthest part of town costs around USD 7 for 15 km during the day. Some hotel shuttles offer free transfers except at 04:00 or early morning hours. Small US dollar notes are useful for taxi rides and curio purchases but can be reluctantly exchanged at banks.

The climate is tropical humid with average temperatures ranging from 22°C minimum to 32°C maximum. The hot rainy season runs from December to April with irregular, often heavy rain accompanied by strong monsoon winds. The dry season is from May to November with average temperatures around 28°C during the day. Seawater temperature ranges from 25°C to 30°C. Whale watching is possible from June to November when Humpback and Southern Right whales migrate from Antarctica to Mozambique's Indian Ocean waters.

Accommodation options range from budget to luxury. Pemba Magic Lodge (known as 'the campsite') in Namibi Village, 3 km from Wimbi Beach, offers bungalows with ensuite bathrooms, tent rentals, and camping. Pemba Dive & Bush Camp on Wimbe Beach inside Nacole Bay provides beach front chalets, sea view backpacker units, camping, and self-catering options. Pemba Arti Lodge on the Londo peninsula offers beach front bungalows and backpacker rooms with self-catering possible. The exclusive Londo Lodge north of town borders Quirimbas National Park at approximately USD 600 per person per night full board.

Local dining options include Mar e Sol on Wimbe Beach serving fish and chips in spicy citrus sauce. Pemba Dolphin on Wimbe Beach offers good seafood dishes for M100-250. Resturante 556 in the Old Town is open 11AM to late with great bay views and serves ribs, beef, eisbein, and chicken. Potbelly Restaurant at Nacole Bay at Pemba Dive & Bush Camp offers traditional home-cooked meals including buffet-style fresh seafood, selected meats, vegetarian dishes, and beach barbecues. Star Fish on Rua III opposite the migration office (closed weekends) serves meals at 250-300 MZN with harbor views. Bars include Raphael's Hotel, Nautilus Beach Bar, Big Brother's Bar, Deirio Wazir's Bar, Lanchonete Portao Do Wimbi, and Ocean Pub.

Diving is a major attraction with several PADI-certified operations. Pemba Dive on Wimbe Beach offers courses up to divemaster level with access to the reef 100m offshore. CI Divers runs courses up to divemaster, and Pemba Arti Lodge organizes dives on an untouched coral reef on the Londo peninsula. Snorkeling is possible at the Pemba Dive Reef and on the Londo peninsula that closes the bay. Fishing trips are available to the Lazarus Banks, 75 nautical miles into the Mozambique Channel, a world-famous destination for big game fishing (GT's, Tuna, Sailfish, Marlin) during prime season from late August to mid-December. Whale watching runs from June to November. Jungle hiking in Ngezi forest near Konde costs approximately Tsh 20,000 for a short hike or Tsh 60,000 for a longer one crossing to the northern beach.

Historic attractions include the Slave Trade Fort at Ponta Romero Lighthouse, an open-plan monument where slaves were auctioned and now serving as a lookout point for incoming ships. Nacole Baobab is inside the bay at Pemba Dive & Bush Camp Resort, an eco-friendly nature estate with 3 types of mangrove estuaries, bird watching, and a 9m2 hollow ancient baobab tree. Paquitequete fishing village is 1 km from the lighthouse, where traditional Dhows are still built and repaired. Nkwita Lake is a one-hour drive from Pemba, a permanent wetland attracting migrant bird species including the rare Dickinson's Kestrel. Ibo Island takes visitors back in time, and Quipaco Island is 20 km north of Pemba. The Maconde tribe creates expressive helmet masks for traditional festivals and ceremonies at Maconde Arts and Crafts.

Banguia Authentic Traditional Market (Baraca meaning Cheap Shop) is a traditional shopping village on a 2 km road above Av. Da Marginal coastal road, selling everything locals need plus arts and crafts. Avoid purchasing ivory, coral, shells, and turtle shell as this violates Mozambican and international law. Live shells have a shine when killed; natural dead shells lose their shine within a week due to saline sediment buildup. Rather purchase natural materials such as coconut fibre, bamboo, or wooden arts and crafts. Be careful with blackwood as it is scarce and grows very slowly. Beach curio sellers usually mark up substantially - start negotiations at a quarter of their price and never settle for more than 60%.

Hitchhiking around Pemba is described as safe. However, be cautious of beach curio sellers who mark up prices substantially. Walk away and do not purchase if animals, shells, or coral are being sold as this is illegal. The area is in northern Mozambique which has experienced security concerns - travelers should check current travel advisories before visiting.

Ibo Island takes visitors back in time as one of the Quirimbas Archipelago islands. Nkwita Lake is a one-hour drive from Pemba with prolific bird life including the rare Dickinson's Kestrel and resident Fish Eagles. Day trips can be arranged for bird watching. Jungle hiking in Ngezi forest near Konde offers short (approximately Tsh 20,000) or longer (approximately Tsh 60,000) guided hikes crossing the forest to the northern beach.

The Quirimbas Islands stretch from Pemba in the south to Palma in the north, comprising around 30 islands. They are among the world's best fishing and diving destinations with phenomenal vertical drop-offs up to 400 meters. Pemba has the largest fan coral in Africa. The southern islands include forests within Quirimbas National Park. Islands include Ibo, Matemo, Medjumbe, Quilalea, Vamizi, Rongui, and Macoloe. Ilha de Mozambique is a seven-hour drive to the south, a beautiful and haunting island that was once the capital of the country under Portuguese rule.