Oxford, Mississippi
United States and Canada · United States
See also
Memphis
United States35.15°N 90.05°W · 103 m
Overview
Oxford is the quintessential Southern college town where literary history meets vibrant campus culture. Home to the University of Mississippi (Ole Miss) since 1848, this Lafayette County town inspired William Faulkner's fictional Yoknapatawpha County and still hosts authors like John Grisham.
Languages: English
Why Go?
Oxford is the quintessential Southern college town where literary history meets vibrant campus culture. Home to the University of Mississippi (Ole Miss) since 1848, this Lafayette County town inspired William Faulkner's fictional Yoknapatawpha County and still hosts authors like John Grisham. The historic Courthouse Square pulses with acclaimed restaurants, unique boutiques, and bars serving a town motto that perfectly captures its spirit: "We may not win every game, but we never lose a party." National Geographic Traveler describes it as a "sophisticated little Oxford" waiting to be explored.
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Getting In
Oxford has no commercial airport; the nearest major airport is Memphis International (MEM), approximately 90 miles away. Most visitors drive, approaching via Highway 6 or Highway 7 from the county line where cold beer can legally be purchased before entering city limits. The O-U-T public transit system serves major points around town, though a car is the second-best way to navigate once you've found parking downtown or on campus.
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Getting Around
The best way to explore Oxford is on foot—the town is beautiful to walk and parking is scarce downtown and on campus. Once you figure out how to navigate the Square and its surrounding one-way streets, you can find spots by cruising the back alleys. Oxford Taxi (+1 662 234-8500) serves the area. Do not drink and drive; cops watch the byways closely. Instead, walk home, hitch a ride from a friendly stranger, or call a cab.
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When To Go
Oxford shines year-round but football season transforms the town. The Grove on Ole Miss campus hosts what Sports Illustrated rates as one of America's premier college tailgating events (No. 3 on "100 things to do before graduating"). The biggest annual event is the Double Decker Arts and Music Festival on Courthouse Square, celebrating music, food, and arts with free admission. Book accommodations months ahead for home football weekends as rooms sell out quickly.
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Where To Stay
Oxford has no luxury hotels yet, though two boutique hotels are under construction near the Square. The Graduate Hotel and Inn at Ole Miss are the most highly recommended for quality and location. For game weekends, nearly all rooms are presold as season packages—occasional rooms do open up but chances are slim. The nearest alternative towns with motels are Bruce (24 miles), Batesville (25 miles), Holly Springs (30 miles), and Pontotoc (20 miles). Budget options include Super 8 Motel (2201 Jackson Ave W) with rooms around $70, and Comfort Inn Oxford (1808 Jackson Ave W) offering 49 rooms with various bed configurations. State park cabins at John W. Kyle State Park and Wall Doxey State Park provide outdoor alternatives.
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Food & Drink
Oxford has evolved into a "mecca" for food lovers according to Food & Wine writer Pete Wells, home to the Southern Foodways Alliance. City Grocery offers upscale fine dining; Boure and Ajax provide more casual options. Taylor Grocery in the nearby arts community of Taylor (8 miles south) serves what may be "the best catfish in the world" with brown-bag alcohol policy. Handy Andy specializes in great BBQ with peach and apple fried pies and banana pudding at 97 cents per serving. BBB (Big Bad Breakfast) serves Southern classics with locally sourced ingredients. Proud Larry's offers hand-tossed pizza and live music. Note: cold beer is not sold in Oxford city limits except at bars and restaurants—purchase at the county line on Hwy 6 or 7, and keep all alcohol in cups to avoid problems.
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Things To Do
Explore Oxford's literary heritage at Rowan Oak (William Faulkner's home) where he wrote part of a novel on his bedroom walls, or the UM Department of Archives and Special Collections housing over 300 manuscript collections. The Lyceum on Ole Miss campus, used as a Confederate hospital during the Civil War, features bullet holes from James Meredith's integration. The Ole Miss Blues Archives holds the world's most extensive blues collection. Catch a performance at the Gertrude C. Ford Center or the Lyric Theatre (opened as a silent movie house in 1913). The Thacker Mountain Radio Show at Off-Square Books combines live music with author readings weekly. Outdoor activities include golf at Grand Oaks or Mallard Pointe Golf Course (about $45 for weekend visitors), and camping at Puskus Lake Recreation Area in Holly Springs National Forest.
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Safety
Oxford is a very safe town with police always nearby and little tolerance for disruptive behavior. Court dockets are mostly full of minor offenses like MIPs, public intoxication, and DUIs. The town is safe to walk at any time of night with only basic precautions necessary. During football weekends, be aware that traffic becomes extremely difficult—consider renting an RV in Memphis and staying on campus for free, or staying in downtown Memphis and coming in just for the game.
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Connectivity
High-speed internet is widely available throughout Oxford. Heartbreak Coffee on North Lamar Boulevard offers coffee and WiFi. Most hotels and cafes provide free WiFi. Power plugs use standard US Type A/B (120V, 60Hz) with two or three prongs.
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Budget
Daily budget for a backpacker in Oxford runs approximately $75-120 per day: hostel/motel $50-80, meals $15-30, transport $5-10, activities $10-20. Game weekends significantly increase costs with hotels priced as packages. Many attractions like Rowan Oak (Wednesdays free), Southside Gallery, University Museum, and the Double Decker Festival are free or low-cost. Handy Andy offers excellent BBQ meals under $10.
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Day Trips
From Oxford, several notable destinations are within driving distance: Memphis (90 miles) offers Graceland, Beale Street, and revitalized downtown; Clarksdale (60 miles) features the famous Crossroads intersection of Highways 61 and 49, known for Delta blues; Natchez (180 miles) preserves the South's grandest collection of antebellum homes; Tupelo (100 miles) is the birthplace of Elvis Presley; and Tunica (90 miles) offers a dozen large casino resorts. Closer to town, explore the Taylor arts community with Taylor Grocery, Big Truck Theater, and Taylor Creek Farm.
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Go Next
From Oxford, Highway 278 runs west toward Greenville through Batesville, and east toward Tupelo through Pontotoc. Memphis makes an easy day trip or overnight for Beale Street and Graceland. The Mississippi Delta blues trail runs through Clarksdale. The historic river town of Natchez lies to the south with its antebellum mansions.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Field guide adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0. Text has been adapted and organized for this guide. About our sources.
Places to know
A few starting points from the guide. Check current hours and prices before you go.
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Abners Famous Chicken Tenders
Great chicken tenders. Wall-to-wall sports memorabilia. Great sweet tea. It has now developed into a small chain with locations throughout Mississippi and the Memphis area. This is the original Abners and was started by former Ole Miss football player, Abner White. Great for a quick lunch.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
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B's Hickory Smoked Bar-B-Q
Smoked tenderloin, chicken, Cornish hens, quail, ribs, pork tenderloin, beef brisket, hot wings, sides. Great place to pick up some barbeque for tailgating before football or baseball games, though you'll need to place any large order ahead of time. Although it's inside the BP gas station, don't let that fool you. It's some of the finest barbeque around. Any leftover 'Q is sold at a deep discount late at night.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
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BBB (Big Bad Breakfast)
The best breakfast in town, a great, truly Southern joint serving on-site smoked breakfast meats, local eggs and cheese, fresh made jellies and jams, and locally ground grits. Try the Big Bad Breakfast plate or enjoy one of the other Southern literary-named dishes. Open for breakfast and lunch. Reservations not accepted.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
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Boure
A moderately-priced offshoot of City Grocery, featuring contemporary and traditional items. Try the French Dip. Entrees $10-20.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
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City Grocery
Upscale fine dining, flagship restaurant of Oxford's food scene
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
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Handy Andy
Specializing in great BBQ, sandwiches, ribs, and salads. Don't miss the peach and apple fried pies. One of the most popular spots in town. The crowd comes not for the atmosphere, which is definitely no-frills, but for the great food at cheap prices. Try the steak sandwich, but you can't go wrong with the great barbeque (still hickory smoked when most famous Memphis places have switched to gas smokers) or the hamburgers made they way they were 50 years ago. The banana pudding is some of the best you'll ever eat, and you can't beat the price at 97 cents per serving.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
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Heartbreak Coffee
Located right off the Square, Uptown is a perfect place to meet up with friends to have a cup of joe and hang out. High Speed Internet available.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- do
Annual Faulkner and Yoknapatawpha Conference
Contact Ann Abadie. A popular literary event that includes six days of lectures and discussions by scholars and dramatic readings from the works of William Faulkner. Celebrate at Rowan Oak, once the home of the famous writer.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
Before you go
Accommodation
Book football weekend rooms months in advance; nearly all are presold as season packages. State park cabins at John W. Kyle and Wall Doxey are alternatives.
Culture
Literary heritage runs deep—Faulkner's Rowan Oak, Faulkner conference, and Southern culture studies at Ole Miss. Live music at Proud Larry's and the Lyric Theatre.
Etiquette
Keep alcohol in cups in public; open containers result in confiscation. Bars close early (midnight Sun-Wed, 1AM Thu-Sat). Support locally-owned establishments on the Square.
Food
Oxford is a foodie destination with Southern Foodways Alliance headquarters. Taylor Grocery (8 miles south) serves legendary catfish. Handy Andy offers great BBQ under $10.
Money
Most businesses accept major credit cards; some smaller shops allow charge accounts for students. ATMs available throughout town. Budget $75-120/day as a backpacker, more during football weekends.
Safety
Oxford is very safe to walk at any hour. Police crack down on DUIs and disruptive behavior. Basic precautions suffice.
Transport
Walk downtown and on campus—parking is scarce. O-U-T bus system serves major points. Rent a car for day trips to Memphis, Clarksdale, or Natchez.
Weather
Humid subtropical climate. Spring brings The Grove in full bloom; fall brings football season. Summer is hot (90s F) with thunderstorms. Winters mild but can get cold.