Nizwa

Nizwa was the capital of Oman in the 6th and 7th century and is one of the first cities in Oman to convert to Islam. For centuries it was a seat of conservative Islamic scholarship, and was considered so hostile to outsiders that even in the mid-20th century explorer Wilfred Thesiger was forced to abandon his attempts to visit. Today it is after Muscat the second city most visited by foreigners in Oman, offering a preserved old quarter around the fort now full of hotels and cafes, while much of the new architecture mimics traditional sandstone. The city is renowned for date cultivation, particularly the prized khalas and khumaizi varieties.

Nizwa is about 1 hour 30 minutes southwest of Muscat on Highway 15. For travelers driving from Al Ain in the UAE, it is just over a 3-hour drive on Highway 21. The Oman National Transport Company (ONTC) runs buses to and from Muscat twice daily with a travel time of 2 hours 20 minutes.

Nizwa is a walkable city, with the main attractions—the fort, souq, and old quarters—concentrated near each other. Taxis are available for reaching destinations further afield such as the Oman Across Ages Museum on Hwy 31.

The best time to visit Nizwa is during the cooler months from October to March when temperatures are mild and suitable for exploring the fort and taking day trips into the Hajar Mountains. Summer months (May-September) can be extremely hot, with temperatures often exceeding 40°C.

Accommodation in Nizwa ranges from mid-range hotels to guest houses. The Al Diyar Hotel on Highway 21 offers rooms from OMR 35-55 per night with Wi-Fi, pool, gym, and restaurant. For higher-end comfort, the Falaj Daris hotel (OMR 58+) features two pools, a gym, and an onsite restaurant, popular with both Omanis and tourists. Budget travelers can try the Majan Guest House or Safari Hotel, both on Highway 21 with basic amenities.

For inexpensive international food, Bahjat Al Sham next to the Al Diyar Hotel is unlicensed but offers good value. Lulu Hypermarket has a full hot and cold deli and is ideal for stocking up before mountain trips. The souq offers fresh produce, meat sections, and local snacks in traditional market atmosphere.

Nizwa Fort, built in 1668 by Imam Sultan bin Saif al Ya'rubi, is one of Oman's most-visited national monuments with a museum and tower views over date plantations (OMR 0.50). The Al Aqr Wall along the old city offers pleasant walks with views and evening string lighting (OMR 1). Opened in 2023, the Oman Across Ages Museum, 20km south on Hwy 31, features award-winning architecture covering Oman's history with interactive exhibits—budget 2-4 hours (OMR 5). Falaj Daris, a UNESCO-listed aflaj irrigation system dating to 500 CE with possible origins back to 2500 BCE, offers a peaceful park perfect for picnics.

The Nizwa Souq near the castle operates early morning until 11:30, with separate sections for vegetables, meat, and pottery—the eastern sections are the most atmospheric as they have not yet been renovated. The Goat Souq in a round structure near the main souq operates Thursday and Friday mornings from around 07:30, offering a lively scene of shouting, haggling, and handslaps that is truly Arabian.

Nizwa is famous for handcrafted silver khanjars (daggers) and silver craftsmanship in general—bargaining hard is expected. The souq also stocks antiques including Maria Theresa thalers, once used as Oman's official currency. Vanilla, saffron, spices, dried lemons, nuts, and Nizwa's prized dates are available in the older section of the souq.

Bahla with its magnificent fortress is just a 30-minute drive west. The old village of Al Hamra and scenic Misfat (starting point for hiking trails) are nearby. Jebel Shams with Wadi Ghul, and the mountain villages of the Saiq Plateau can all be visited as day trips from Nizwa.

From Nizwa, travelers can continue to Bahla (fortress), Al Hamra (old village), Misfat (hiking trails), Jebel Shams, Wadi Ghul, and the Saiq Plateau in the Hajar Mountains. Muscat is 1.5 hours northeast, while the UAE border crossing near Al Ain is about 3 hours away.