Montpellier

Montpellier is one of France's fastest-growing cities since the 1990s, offering a striking contrast between the winding medieval lanes of the old town (Écusson) and sleek modern districts like Antigone. The city has a distinctly young feel thanks to the University of Montpellier, home to Europe's oldest medical school, and enjoys a dry Mediterranean climate with mild winters. It's an ideal alternative to larger French cities for budget travelers seeking culture, nightlife, and coastal access without Parisian prices.

Montpellier Méditerranée Airport lies on the outskirts, with Route 620 shuttle bus reaching Place de l'Europe in 15 minutes (€1.60 alone or €2.60 with tram extension). The main Montpellier-Saint-Roch railway station is centrally located on Place Auguste Gibert, while the newer Montpellier Sud de France TGV station sits 3 km southwest. TGV trains connect to Paris in around 3 hours. Montpellier is also on the A9 autoroute linking Spain and Italy.

Montpellier is a compact city where walking across the entire city centre takes no long. The tram system has four lines (blue Line 1 is most useful for tourists, connecting the train stations and Place de la Comédie), with the green Line 3 extending toward the beaches at Carnon and Palavas. Ticket machines at tram stops are sometimes approached by scammers offering help then demanding money.

Montpellier enjoys a Mediterranean climate: hot, dry summers perfect for beach trips, and mild winters. The Languedoc-Roussillon region produces more wine annually than all of Australia, with picpoul de Pinet being the ideal white wine for local oysters. Summer sees many festivals and outdoor dining, while rose wine is particularly popular during the hottest months.

Budget options include the HI Hostel on Rue des Ecoles Laiques (with a 10:00-15:00 daily lockout), while mid-range choices include Hotel Aragon near Place de la Comédie (€75-180) and Hotel Kyriad Montpellier Centre-Antigone. For splurges, Oceania Le Metropole offers 4-star luxury with spa access (€100-130). Neighborhoods worth considering for different vibes include the historic Écusson, the university area, and the modern Antigone district.

Montpellier is cosmopolitan with abundant ethnic cuisines alongside traditional French food. The city centre around Place de la Comédie tends toward touristy, overpriced establishments; for better value, head to Place St Roch, Place Jean Jaurès, or the northeast area near Basilique Notre Dame des Tables. Kebab shops and sandwicheries are everywhere. For authentic experiences, try La Tomate or Bistrot Chez Felix for French cuisine, or Art Mango for Thai with a French twist. A good coffee can be found at Fairview Coffee (Anglo-Saxon/Australian inspired) or Café BUN near Place de la Comédie.

Must-see attractions include the Arc de Triomphe (accessible only via walking tours from the tourist office), the 1689 Château d'Eau and Place Royale du Peyrou, and Le Jardin des Plantes (France's oldest botanical garden, free entry). The Musée Fabre is a major art museum that underwent a €61.2-million renovation completed in 2007. For activities, join an English walking tour at the information centre on Tuesdays (they have keys to monuments like the Jewish baths that other tours cannot access), or take the little tourist train for a 45-minute multilingual circuit. Sports fans can catch Montpellier HSC (football, Ligue 2) at Stade de la Mosson or Montpellier Hérault rugby (Top 14) at GGL Stadium.

Central Montpellier is generally safe, though outer areas have higher crime rates by French standards. Common scams include people collecting for fake charities (sometimes pretending to be deaf), and unsolicited help at tram ticket machines followed by demands for payment. The Esplanade Charles-de-Gaulle is pleasant during the day but stick to well-lit areas at night. Begging by foreigners is notable in certain areas but generally harmless if you decline firmly.

As of June 2022, Montpellier has 5G coverage from all French carriers. WiFi is widely available in hotels, cafes, and restaurants. Standard French electrical outlets (Type E) are used throughout.

A backpacker can expect to spend €50-80 per day in Montpellier. Accommodation in hostels runs €20-35 per night in dorms, while budget hotels start around €75. Street food and kebab shops offer meals under €10, though restaurant dinners typically cost €15-25. Tram tickets are around €1.60 per ride. Beach access via tram and shuttle bus is cheap and easy. The famous Sunday flea market at Mosson (take the blue line tram to the last stop) offers bargains including clothing and bicycles, though quality varies.

Several beautiful villages are accessible by bus, including Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert (a medieval village and pilgrimage site), Aigues-Mortes (walled medieval town), and Sète (port city with beaches). The beach towns of Carnon and Palavas are reachable via green tram Line 3 plus shuttle buses—Carnon is quieter and more residential, while Palavas-les-Flots has more restaurants and bars. Wine enthusiasts can visit Lunel or Frontignan for muscat, or explore the picpoul de Pinet region near the étangs.

Upscale shopping concentrates on streets leading from Place de la Comédie and Rue Foch, while the Polygone shopping centre near La Comédie offers major French chains. For unique finds, explore Rue Saint-Guilhem and Rue de l'Ancien Courrier for comics (Azimuts), gaming (Excalibur, Lud'm, Games Workshop), and Japanese culture shops. Rue de la Friperie has Japanese arcades and takoyaki. The Sunday morning flea market at Mosson (tram to last stop) is enormous, selling everything from brand-name clothing to household goods; haggling is expected but prices start reasonable. Savon de Marseille soap makes an authentic souvenir despite being more properly bought in Marseille itself.

From Montpellier, travelers can head to Aigues-Mortes (walled medieval town), Béziers (another regional city), Perpignan (closer to Spain), Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert (inland medieval village), or Sète (coastal port city with beaches). The A9 autoroute connects Montpellier to Spain to the south and Italy to the east, while TGV trains provide fast connections to Paris (about 3 hours) and Barcelona.

The Languedoc-Roussillon region produces more wine than all of Australia, making Montpellier an excellent base for wine lovers. For red, try a mid-priced picpoul de Pinet or the local favorite. White picpoul de Pinet pairs perfectly with local oysters and seafood. Summer is rose season, though many restaurants serve chilled red. Sweet wine enthusiasts should explore Lunel and Frontignan for muscat. Pastis is the southern apéritif of choice—typically served over a single ice cube and diluted to taste, though variations with grenadine, mint syrup, or orgeat are common.