Mardin

Mardin is a historic hilltop city in southeastern Turkey where heavily decorated stone buildings cascade down a mountainside, overlooking the vast Mesopotamian plains below. The city is the heartland of the Assyrians (Süryaniler), an ancient people tracing their roots to the Akkadian Empire of 2200 BC, and served as capital of the Turkic Artuqid dynasty between the 12th and 15th centuries. Much of the Islamic heritage—madrasahs and mosques—dates from this era. Closed to tourism throughout the 1990s due to the PKK conflict, Mardin has only recently opened up, offering a rare sense of discovery without crowds of package tourists.

Mardin has its own airport (Mardin Airport, listing_uid 11ba66a5292208a6) for domestic flights. The city sits in Southeastern Anatolia, accessible by bus from major Turkish cities. The dolmuş minibuses M6, M7A, and M8 connect Yenişehir (new city) with Eski Mardin (old city) for about 20 TL per person as of 2025.

The old city is small enough to explore on foot—walking from one end of the main street to the other takes about half an hour. For reaching the old city from the new city, small yellow city buses operate frequently between the State Hospital (Şehir Hastanesi) and the Old City, payable by contactless card or cash. The steep road between new and old cities can be walked in 30-40 minutes, though this is a demanding climb especially during summer heat. The twisty, staired side alleys are pedestrian-only—even garbage is collected with the help of donkeys.

Mardin can be visited year-round, though summer heat (often exceeding 40°C) makes spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October) ideal. The city attracts more travelers on weekends, so booking accommodation in summer months—especially Fridays and Saturdays—is important as options are limited. Spring and autumn offer comfortable temperatures for walking the old city's steep alleys and for day trips to monasteries and surrounding villages.

Most accommodation options cluster near 1. Cadde (First Avenue) in the old city or in Yenişehir. Budget travelers can find options like Mardia Hotel (141 TL/night, listing_uid df71d6e0229f3cd4) or Merdin Butik Otel (156 TL/night, listing_uid f0e9c496e7ce6717) with breakfast and wifi. Mid-range choices include Stone Butik Otel Mardin (222 TL/night, listing_uid 77b54c584c9b842e) offering medieval fortress-like atmosphere with mountain views, and Hilton Garden Inn in Yenişehir (222 TL/night, listing_uid bfa1a67dffaef19d). For cheaper base camps to visit Midyat, Dargeçit offers affordable Airbnb options. Booking ahead is essential in summer and on weekends.

Mardin offers traditional Syriac and southeastern Turkish cuisine. Leyli Muse Mutfak (listing_uid 18cac9b8f8c342d8, daily 12:00-22:00) serves traditional food in a traditional setting on Şar Street. Revan Kafe Restoran (listing_uid a701e08dd19dd1c5, daily from 07:30 late) offers falafel and local cuisine on Latifiye's 1. Cadde. Al Hayaal (listing_uid c1dc7b70767dd09b) on 1. Cadde is another local cuisine option. Süryani şarabı is the local red wine, found in independent wine shops throughout the old town. Note that tap water is far too chalky to be tasty and may be unsafe—buy bottled water instead. Mezopotamya Çay Bahçesi (listing_uid 17c0da6994863c36) offers tea at 0.50 TL per glass with views of the plains.

Most sights cluster in the old city. The Church of the Forties (Kırklar Kilisesi) is a Syriac Orthodox church dating to the 10th century in a side alley off the main street. Zinciriye Medresesi, a 1385 madrasah built by the Artuqids, features beautiful wall and ceiling decorations similar to Seljuk art. Kasımiye Madrasah (1711, daily 10:00-20:00) dates to the 13th-century Artuqid dynasty and offers sunset views. The Grand Mosque (Tarihi Ulu Cami, listing_uid 49a1f5d77692c51d) on Teker Street provides fine shots with its minaret against the Mesopotamian plains. Latifiye Camii (listing_uid 427c4db11c321ea4) is another picturesque mosque. Deyrulzafarân Monastery (listing_uid 5d490049af4789e2, 6 TL, 09:00-12:00 and 13:00-17:00), 8 km southeast, was seat of the Syriac Orthodox Church until 1932; built on a 4500-year-old pagan temple site with 365 rooms symbolizing days of the year. More (Saint) Gabriel Monastery (listing_uid a1821024a58b2841, 100 ₺, 09:00-11:30 and 13:00-17:00) lies 23 km southeast of Midyat. The citadel (Kale, listing_uid a861ac37bb97c27c) is in a military zone and closed to visitors, but the old city alleys offer enchanting views of the plains. Walking the old city's alleys, watching the Mesopotamian plains, and visiting traditional barber shops for a shave complete the experience. A traditional hamam (bathhouse) is located along the main street in the old town.

Colourful keffiyehs (locally called poşi) make distinctive souvenirs—a store on the main street sells 4 scarves for 10 TL. Note that the red, yellow, and green kuffiya carries political significance related to Kurdish identity and will get you positive reception in Kurdish areas but should be avoided in other parts of Turkey. Several independent wine shops in the old town sell Süryani şarabı. Migros, a big-box store in Yenişehir at the beginning of the ascent to the old city, stocks essentials. Banks with ATMs are on the main street of the old city. Stores close by 21:00-22:00, so stock up on snacks and water for the night.

The safety situation has vastly improved since the 1990s. Mardin and its surrounding area feel very safe with an overly heavy presence of policemen in the old city. The citadel is inside a military zone—never attempt to cross the heavily barbed wire as this part of Turkey remains militarily sensitive. For emergency services, dial 155 (Police), 110 (Fire), or 112 (Medical Emergency).

Mardin's telephone code is (+90) 482. For internet access, Kültür Internet (listing_uid 62e6689dcc30941e) on Cumhuriyet Caddesi is an internet cafe charging 1 TL per hour. Most hotels offer wifi. Turkish mobile providers provide coverage throughout the city.

Mardin is very affordable for backpackers. Dolmuş rides cost about 20 TL between new and old city. Street food and keffiyehs (4 scarves for 10 TL) offer excellent value. Accommodation ranges from 141-222 TL for mid-range hotels with breakfast. A barber shave costs 20 TL at tourist-oriented shops but cheaper options exist. Deyrulzafarân Monastery entrance is 6 TL; More Gabriel Monastery is 100 ₺. Tea at Mezopotamya Çay Bahçesi costs 0.50 TL per glass.

Midyat, about 40 minutes by minibus north of Mardin, is renowned for architecture even more detailed than Mardin's stonework. Savur, on the old mountain road to Midyat, is a mini-Mardin with stone buildings on an outcrop. Beyazsu (Kurdish: Avaspi, meaning 'white water') is about one hour away on the road between Midyat and Nusaybin—a favorite weekend retreat with waterfalls and greenery, a miracle in this arid region. Dara, an ancient Greek city, is reachable by bus from the State Hospital at 12:00 daily (returns at 16:00). Hasankeyf on the Tigris River, once famous for cave houses and medieval monuments, was partially relocated and partially submerged by the Ilısu Dam lake. Nusaybin is a border town with an ancient Syriac Orthodox church, 12th-century mosque, and desert ruins of Dara in its outskirts. The Virgin Mary Church and Patriarch (Yoldath Aloho, listing_uid 6e60cd4896cedb54) in Anıtlı Village is free to visit. Hah Ruins (listing_uid 6a18a00fc60546ca, daily 10:00-20:00, free) in Anıtlı/Hah Village, 87 km from Mardin center, features 4th-5th century structures including Mor Sobo Cathedral.

From Mardin, minibuses connect to Midyat (40 min north) with its intricate stonework, and Savur on the old mountain road. Further north, Hasankeyf on the Tigris was submerged by the Ilısu Dam lake, though some monuments were relocated. Beyazsu/Avaspi waterfalls offer greenery one hour away on the Midyat-Nusaybin road. Dara ancient Greek ruins are reachable by daily bus at noon. Nusaybin, a border town, has ancient Syriac Orthodox churches and 12th-century mosques plus desert ruins. Deyrulzafarân Monastery lies 8 km southeast and can be reached by dolmuş to 'Cezaevi' followed by a 4 km walk or hitchhike.