Kunming

Kunming is the capital of Yunnan Province and one of China's most important transport hubs, offering a milder climate than most Chinese cities at its "City of Eternal Spring" altitude of 2000m. The city serves as an ideal base for exploring Yunnan, with excellent connections to Southeast Asia and major domestic destinations. While often overlooked by tourists rushing to Dali or Lijiang, Kunming itself offers museums, temples, flower markets, and a pleasant lakeside park scene, plus access to the Yi ethnic minority culture.

Kunming Changshui International Airport (KWE) offers flights from Southeast Asian cities including Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Kuala Lumpur, and Singapore, plus extensive domestic connections throughout China. The city is served by three main railway stations: Kunming Railway Station (main station), Kunming South Station (high-speed rail), and Kunming North Station. Bus connections are available to Vietnam along the former Burma Road route, with new railway service to Hekou North.

Kunming has generally good roads but they are often badly overloaded with traffic, and not only at peak times. The metro system has three lines (Lines 1, 2, and 3) serving major attractions. By Western standards, driving is often appalling; generous allowance for traffic delays is essential. Didi Chuxing ride-hailing app is recommended over dealing with taxi touts at stations and tourist attractions.

Kunming enjoys a temperate climate year-round due to its altitude, earning the nickname "City of Eternal Spring." However, in winter (December-February) it has been known to snow, so pack warm. When it rains, it tends to be cold regardless of season. The UV rays are quite harsh due to altitude; stay protected from direct sunlight. Flower-growing is a major industry, and the city hosts flower exhibits and auctions.

Accommodation ranges from budget hostels like MamaMoon Hostel (bunks from ¥20) and The Hump Hostel (dorms from ¥50) to mid-range options like 7 Days Inn (doubles from ¥132) and Spring City Star Hotel (from ¥108 with breakfast). For luxury stays, the Green Lake Hotel and Grand Park Kunming offer premium amenities near Green Lake Park. Budget areas cluster near the railway station and Wenlin Street for the hostel scene.

Yunnan specialties include Over-the-Bridge Rice Noodles (过桥米线 guòqiáo mǐxiàn), a famous dish with chicken soup, raw pork, chicken pieces, squid, and carp that's cooked at the table. Steam Potted Chicken (汽锅鸡 qìguō jī) with Tienchi or Cordyceps is another local nutritious dish with centuries of history. Yiliang Roasted Duck and Xuanwei Ham (dating to 1727) are also notable. The main club area is in Wuhua District, specifically Kundu Bar Street, with clubs open until 05:30 or 06:00.

Kunming offers numerous museums including the Yunnan Provincial Museum (free, 2,500 years of artifacts), Yunnan Nationalities Museum (free, minority culture), and Burma Road History Museum (free). Temples include Yuantong Temple (¥6, 1,200 years old, grandest in Yunnan) and Qiongzhu Temple (¥10, amazing sculptures in mountains). Parks include Green Lake Park (free, popular morning exercises and seagulls in winter) and Daguan Pavilion (¥20, 300-year-old pavilion with couplet). The Dounan Flower Market night auction is a fascinating spectacle of commerce.

Kunming is generally a very safe city where women can roam streets alone at night. The biggest risks are touts at airports, train stations, and tourist attractions who will overcharge; use public transport or Didi Chuxing instead. Electric scooters are a hazard as they are much quieter than motorcycles. Dianchi Lake is highly polluted; do not swim in the lake or eat fish caught from it.

If arriving in China through Kunming, note there is no telco store in Kunming Changshui Airport. A convenience store at the arrival hall (level B1) sells SIM cards at a hefty price of ¥100 (as of March 2019), with unclear inclusions. It's advisable to purchase SIM cards in the city for better prices and options.

Budget travelers can find accommodation from ¥20 per night in hostel dorms. Street food and local restaurants offer meals from ¥10-30. Metro rides cost a few yuan per trip. Museums are mostly free or under ¥50. The Kunming Zoology Museum costs ¥40, Yunnan Nationalities Village is ¥90 for adults. A daily budget of ¥150-300 covers basic needs.

Fuxian Lake, one of China's cleanest and deepest lakes, is one hour by bus from Kunming (¥15-20 to Chengjiang). The Stone Forest at Shilin is 70km southeast, about 2 hours by bus from Kunming East Bus Station. Anning hot springs are 34km away. Dongchuan offers colorful terraces. Jiuxiang Scenic Area, 65km east, features karst caves and Yi minority culture.

Popular destinations from Kunming include Shilin (Stone Forest, 70km, UNESCO karst site), Dali (4 hours by bus/train), and Lijiang (8 hours), both with old towns popular with tourists. Xishuangbanna offers tropical paradise near the Laotian border. South of Kunming lie historic towns including Jianshui, Yuanyang rice terraces, and Yuanmou's Earth Forest. Fuxian Lake makes an excellent day trip for nature lovers.