Kota Bharu

Kota Bharu is the vibrant capital of Kelantan state, offering a culturally distinct experience unlike other Malaysian cities. The state proudly sustains its unique dialect (Bahasa Kelantan, which standard Malay speakers may not understand), traditional handicrafts, and elaborate batik for which Kelantan is probably the most famous in Malaysia. Visitors can experience elegant traditional architecture, several museums showcasing cultural heritage, and a slower-paced atmosphere built on relatively strict religious adherence.

Kota Bharu is a very socially conservative city in a state ruled by the Islamic Party of Malaysia (PAS). Cinemas have been essentially banned in Kelantan since the 1990s on moral grounds. Visitors will hear the azan (call for prayer) from many mosques 5 times a day, and the khutbah (sermon) may also be broadcast from some mosques with loudspeakers. Most shop signs are written in both standard romanized Malay and the Arabic-based Jawi script. Be prepared for breaks to be taken in many places including the Pasar Malam (Night Market) during Islamic prayer times.

Sultan Ismail Petra Airport in Pengkalan Chepa receives flights from Kuala Lumpur provided by Malaysia Airlines and budget carrier AirAsia. Advance bookings especially for AirAsia can be very cheap, with promotional fares sometimes cheaper than bus travel for travelers without check-in luggage. Wakaf Bharu station provides train connections, and Kota Bharu Bus Terminal serves intercity routes.

BAS.MY runs several local bus routes connecting Kota Bharu and surrounding towns. Route information is available in Malay. The compact downtown area is walkable, and bicycles can be rented to explore areas like the Pengkalan Chepa (airport) area.

The cultural show at Culture Centre runs 3 times a week on Saturday (15:00-16:45 and 20:00-23:30), Monday (15:00-16:45), and Wednesday (15:00-16:45 and 20:00-00:00). Hari Raya is a particularly festive time when visitors can try Tapai, sweet fermented cassava or rice wrapped in tapioca leaves.

Accommodation ranges from budget dorms to mid-range hotels. KB Backpackers Lodge offers dorm beds from RM48. Cerana Guesthouse near the center has fan dorms and rooms from RM12-40. Lee Guesthouse in Bandar Baru Kubang Kerian offers rooms from RM75-180 with free internet and satellite TV. Grand Riverview Hotel along the river offers rooms from RM126 with fitness center, outdoor pool, and free breakfast.

Kota Bharu is full of delicious Kelantanese food with unique Thai and Indian influences. Local specialties include Ayam Percik (wood-fired chicken with coconut/peanut sauce) at Yati Ayam Percik (847 Jalan Long Yunus, about 2km from center), Nasi Kerabu (rice with fragrant leaves dipped in budu or sambal belacan) at the Central Market first floor foodcourt, and Nasi Dagang Kelantan (glutinous rice cooked in coconut with maroon tint). Murtabak Raja on Jalan Bayam is famous for savory or sweet crepes. Keropok Lekor Losong (local fish paste sausages, thicker at about 4cm) come fried or boiled. Durian puffs called Lepok Durian are sold at Kubang Pasu wet market in mornings. Chinese restaurants on Jalan Kebun Sultan and Jalan Post Office Lama serve beer to non-Muslims.

The central market (Pasar Besar) is an octagonal building with a colorful active market daily. Nearby, Independence Square (Padang Merdeka) turns into the local food market (Pasar Malam) in evenings. Museums near the square include Muzium Kraftangan (Handicrafts Museum), Muzium Negeri (State Museum on Jalan Hospital), Muzium Diraja (Royal Museum), Muzium Islam, Muzium Adat Istiadat Diraja Kelantan, and Memorial Peperangan Dunia Ke II (WWII memorial in a former Japanese secret police bank building on Jalan Hospital). The nearby Istana Balai Besar (downtown Royal Palace) features unique elegant architecture. Day trips include temples near Tumpat (Wat Pothivihan with huge reclining Buddha, Wat Mai Suwan Khiri with dragon boat, Wat Serova Buddhist Temples), Bachok beaches (Pantai Perkasa, Pantai Sungai Dua, Pantai Kandis with 30m standing Buddha at Wat Phothikyan), and the historic Kampung Laut Mosque (wooden construction dating to 15th century, greatly enlarged in late 19th century). Stong Waterfall reputedly reaches about 990 metres, claimed to be the highest in Southeast Asia.

Visit PCB Beach (Pantai Cahaya Bulan, formerly Pantai Cinta Berahi) or Irama Beach (Beach of Melody) for batik shops and fried seafood with coconut water. Citra Batik is about 500m from PCB Beach. Explore old WW2 British pillboxes near Pantai Sabak beach. River cruise along Sungai Galas down to Dabong (2 hours) and explore caves at Gua Ikan in Dabong. Mount Stong State Park features Gunung Stong at 1,422 metres, a dome-shaped granite complex over 500 million years old. Nenggiri Rafting Adventure covers approximately 50km from Kuala Betis/Gua Cha to Kampung Star.

Hand-printed batik clothes are a specialty. Kota Bharu Trade Centre (KBTC) beside Pasar Siti Khadijah offers variety, while KB Mall has higher prices but more convenience. Citra Batik at PCB Beach is another option. Silverware and crystals (emerald/zamrud, ruby, sapphire, topaz, tiger's eye) can be found at local wet markets or specialist shops, though beware fakes. Miniature wau bulan (traditional kites) are expensive souvenirs that don't fly; plastic types for children actually fly.

Malaysia uses Type G power plugs (British 3-pin, 230V). WiFi is commonly available at guesthouses and hotels, with most budget accommodations offering free internet.

Be respectful of the cultural and religious sensibilities of Kota Bharu's primarily Muslim inhabitants. Both men and women should wear modest clothing that covers shoulders and torso completely, while pants and skirts should at least cover the knee. Non-Muslim women do not need to wear a tudung (hijab), but modest dress is expected.

Kota Bharu serves as the main gateway to the Perhentian Islands, with guesthouses like Lee Guesthouse arranging boat tickets and transfers. Other popular destinations include Cameron Highlands, Taman Negara, and the various temples in nearby Tumpat and Bachok districts.