Kirthar National Park

Kirthar National Park offers a unique and incredible landscape rich in natural beauty and cultural heritage. This vast rugged national park in southwest Sindh is one of Pakistan's largest national parks, covering over 3,087 km². The primary attraction is Ranikot Fort — often called the 'Great Wall of Sindh' — with its massive 10-m-high walls of dressed sandstone spanning 26 km in circumference. The park provides an authentic wilderness experience far from typical tourist routes, with opportunities to see Sindh ibex, urials, chinkara, and over 100 bird species in their natural habitat.

Before Pakistan's independence in 1947, this part of the Kirthar mountain range was used for hunting. After research by the Forest Department in 1965, it was declared a game reserve in 1970, a wildlife sanctuary in 1972, and finally gained National Park status in 1974. It was the first Pakistan park included in the United Nations' list of national parks in 1975. The park contains two wildlife sanctuaries — Hub Dam Wildlife Sanctuary and Mahal Kohistan Wildlife Sanctuary — and the Surjan, Sumbak, Eri, and Hothiano game reserves. It is classified by IUCN as a Category II protected area.

The climate is not noticeably different from the rest of Sindh but feels hotter and drier in summer from March to August when temperatures are often extreme. The moist months are July and August during monsoon season when rainfall occurs and makes this desert area greenest — these summer months see flowers in bloom and more lush green vegetation. For most travelers, the best time to visit is roughly October to January as considerably cooler weather makes these more comfortable months for getting around.

Travel to Kirthar National Park generally requires a 4x4 vehicle. There are two common entrances: Karchat and Khar, both with visitor centers. For Karchat, take the arterial road branching off near Nooriabad — a major truck stop — from the M-9 Super Highway between Karachi and Hyderabad. This route passes through small villages and includes mostly unpaved, challenging terrain with poor signage. For Khar, take Kirthar Park Rd linked with the Karachi Northern Bypass (M-10), which is paved and accessible without a 4x4. For Ranikot Fort alone, a dirt road near Sann on Indus Highway provides easy access even without a 4x4. Tour packages from Karachi cost Rs 30,000-35,000 for 2-3 people, inclusive of one night's stay in the park guest house, pickup and drop-off, park tour, and meals.

Public transport doesn't exist inside the park. A 4x4 remains the only way to explore the park — there are several hundred kilometres of roads throughout the park but most are transitory dirt roads. Road signs are poor to non-existent, so hiring a guide from visitor centres is strongly recommended. In fact, going with a guide is mandatory — they want to protect the park and wildlife and ensure you don't wander off the beaten path. A guide for the whole day costs not more than Rs 1,000. The rangers at the visitors' centre are generally useful and helpful in planning your visit.

There are two visitor centres maintained by Sindh Wildlife Department — the main one in Karchat in the deep heart of the park, and another in Khar near Hub Dam. The Karchat area is most visited as it's more mountainous and better for wildlife watching, with most archaeological attractions. The Khar side has captive breeding animals and is popular with bird watchers due to the nearby Hub Dam protected wildlife sanctuary. The primary attraction is the beautiful landscape and Ranikot Fort. Sightings of Sindh ibex, urials, and chinkara are common, while hyena, jungle and desert cats, and wolves are harder to spot as their numbers have declined.

Driving on the hilly and rugged network of unpaved dirt roads in Kirthar National Park is a true adventure — expect a bumpy ride no matter which direction you head. The roads can take you to the most remote parts of the park, but they are rough, sandy, and rocky, becoming even worse during monsoon season. While driving is thrilling, not taking at least a short walk would be almost foolish. The rugged and hilly terrain offers great landscapes and marked hiking trails of varying difficulty and length, ranging from easy strolls to steep climbs, though a guide is usually required. Hunting in the game reserves is possible but requires hiring a guided tour company.

Within the park there are few lodgings and facilities are basic, but the situation is slowly improving. The Wildlife Guesthouse in Karchat has seven cottages with basic facilities and standby generators. The Wildlife Guesthouse in Khar has five cottages with basic facilities. Both are maintained by Sindh Wildlife Department at Rs 800 per night. Pre-booking is required — contact Sindh Wildlife Department at +92-21-9920 4951/2. For those preferring more authentic wilderness, you can pitch your own tent in the park, but you must bring your own tents.

The isolation, wilderness, and ruggedness that makes Kirthar National Park appealing also brings potential danger — especially for those not well prepared. The chances of being a victim of crime are very low but not unheard of; it's usually armed robbery and unattended cars getting broken into in remote areas. Use common sense: keep a low profile, hide valuables from view or in the boot, or leave them at home. Temperatures can shift dramatically during summer months — dressing properly and bringing plenty of water is essential even for short hikes. If bringing your own 4x4, ensure tyres are properly inflated (including spare), check coolant, oil, and fuel levels, and consider adding a winch for difficult situations. Always carry a first aid kit.

Mohenjo-daro — an ancient Indus Valley civilization city not to be missed by history buffs, located further north in Sindh. Karachi — Pakistan's biggest, most diverse, and cosmopolitan city, accessible via the M-9/M-10 motorways. Mothparja — a nearby destination mentioned in the article.